bmxtrev

I installed some stock replacement front UCA's on my EF, got it aligned, and 2 days later, now I am hearing squeaking with shock movement up front, and i can wiggle the front wheels at 12 and 6 quite a bit. Definitely sounds like the squeaking and play is coming from the UCA's, but could the balljoints be bad already or is it the UCA bushings?

I didnt "clock" the UCA assemblies before tightening the bushing bolts, so i think thats why they went bad so fast.

If it is my uca bushings that are bad, what are the best replacement front uca bushings for an EF? also any tips about installation? thanks

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

You probably just didn't tighten the bushing bolts enough and now they are slipping. What to do:

-make note of hub-center to fender ride height
-loosen lug nuts
-raise front and remove wheels
-loosen shock bolt on LCA
-separate lower ball joint
-remove shocks/springs
-loosely reassemble lower ball joint
-raise knuckle until hub-center to fender height equals natural ride height
-loosen then re-tighten each UCA bolt to 40+ ft lbs or maybe more if you are using aftermarket bushings
-drop LCA and reinstall shock/spring assembly
-put the suspension back together, put the wheel on, and lower the car
-with the car on the ground tighten the LCA shock bolt


Guaranteed squeak-free (unless you've got a different problem)

bmxtrev

but why would there be play when i push/pull the front wheels at 6 and 12?

anyone tried energy suspension poly UCA bushings?
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...rod=16%2E3103#

also, if theres squeaking with suspension travel and theres play in the wheels at 6 and 12 oclock, does that confirm the UCA bushings got torn apart? i realized the issue right before leaving home, no time to check. lol

1991EX

I am completely re-doing the front of my 99 Accord Coupe. What you are describing can be many things, wheel bearings, lower / upper ball joints. It is not likely that your bushings have gone bad. The idea of loosening the UCA and re-tighnening is generally for used bushings when changing the ride hieght. A new UCA or new UCA bushings are meant to swivel on the inner race that the bolt goes through (bushing swiveling on race, not race on bolt). Some get stuck over time, and when changing the ride hieght you need to loosen the bolt so the inner race can rotate with the bushing.

There are several ways to look for a worn ball joint, but the best is to lift the car and pry up and down where the connection is, attempting to separate and looking for play. FWIW, my front bearings had no play at all but were making a noise (only heard with a stethascope). When pressed out they were definitely shot. I agree with Gagnartheunruly to check the tightness of the UCA bolts. like I said before, you should not have to reset new UCA bushings. My new UCA's will swivel fine completely tightened (prior to re-installing the knuckle assy).

One old school way I use to diagnose squeeks is to spray WD-40 on the suspected part/bushing to see if it will temporarily clear up.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Usually if the UCA bushings tear completely they will squeak as the rubber rotates around and rubs itself. If this happens to both UCA bushings, there should be play in the UCA when try to move it fore & aft. This check is done by grabbing the tall part of the steering knuckle and trying to push it toward the front and pull it toward the back of the car.

You can also check it by poping the upper balljoint out of the knuckle and checking the movement of the UCA. IF you can pivot the UCA and it stays where you put it, the bushings are completely torn. They will probably squeak too. If the UCA is hard to pivot and quickly springs back to "normal" position, the bushings should be good.

What sort of bushings did the UCAs come with. Were they poly type where the inner sleeve is free to spin inside the bushing? If so, these will always make noise due to friction. If they are OEM style rubber where everything is bonded together, they shouldn't make any noise. You should just clock them and see if that removes the noise.

1991EX

No hijack intended. Very informative post. The ones I removed were torn almost completely. The OEM type I am installing move (not freely) and will stay where you put them. They move around the inner sleeve, I just hope they do not make noise or they are coming off! I hope the OP finds a workable solution based on your post.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

^That does not sound like OEM style rubber "twist" bushings.



For the EG/DC guys, Hardrace sells a complete hard bushing set pre-pressed with new brackets for ~$70 shipped. It beats the hell out of replacing both complete UCAs for ~$240 if your ball joints are still good. I bought this kit for my 94 CX but have yet to install it so I cannot comment on performance or comfort.



For $200 you can get them with spherical bearings too.



I'm also hoping the "still good" bushings that I will be pulling off my Civic will fit my old CRX. I haven't read anything that says they will fit, but it would definitely save a lot of money if they did.

bmxtrev

there was zero play at 12 and 6 on the front wheels, but after i started hearing squeaking, thats when i noticed play, and the car pulling to the right very slightly (day after installing parts and getting an alignment). The wheel bearings are new, and lower ball jooints are good. It must just be the rubber bushings are torn, and the bolt inside can now move around which is creating the play.

are energy suspenion's poly UCA bushings a good replacement choice?