BrakeExpert

This is one of my inventions. This is not a true DIY because it requires more than modifying.

11.1" rear brakes for Honda Civics and Integras (clears 15" diameter wheels)



This is a custom invention I came up with. It uses 11.1" rear discs from an S2000 that are redrilled to 4x100. The setup uses rear disc calipers for a civic or integra, so if your car has rear discs on it or have had them added on, this will work. It is a relocator setup, so it uses a "relocator bracket". It spaces the caliper bracket ourward to use a bigger disc. This S2k disc is a slight bit thicker, heavier, and much bigger in diameter which gives improved brake torque, better fade resistance, and better brake balance for people with Type-R or larger front brakes. Best of all, you use OEM sized rotors and off the shelf pads, so you can use any range from cheap to high performance pads like Hawk and Stoptech and even OEM pads.

DIY: S2000 sized rear brakes for a civic.

You will need custom made parts for this, contact BrakeExpert if you want to get this setup.

1. Jack the car while securing the front wheels. I reccomend doing this one wheel at a time. Since this is the back brakes, the e-brake cannot be engaged so I suggest putting the car in Reverse (manual) or park (automatic).
2. Remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
3. Remove the pin from the e-brake cable at the end with pliers, push the pin out, and slide the e-brake cable from the caliper's e-brake hammer. (the round piece with the hole for that pin that was removed.
4. Use pliers to remove the brake cable lock and remove the e-brake cable from the caliper's guide (looks like a misshaped U and is a squared U shaped spring with a lip on the bottom).
5. Remove the caliper's e-brake guide piece, its held on with two 12mm bolts right next to each other.
6. Unbolt the caliper from the bracket, this does need to be done in this case.
7. Remove the pads.
8. Remove the caliper carrier bracket.
9. Remove the brake rotor.
10. Put on the S2000 rear rotor, it must already be redrilled to 4x100. If you are using centering rings, put them on before the disc. If your rotors were from BrakeExpert, attach them with the centering screws. These are necessary in this case, because the centering holes that are redrilled now center the disc perfectly, however must be secured correctly. Don't tighten the phillips screws with an air gun without anti-seize because they will be very hard to remove in the future. Use the "jiggle" test to get them on the same way you do with wheels with acorn-type lug nuts. ---By this I mean you can loosely put the screws on with your finger, and as you turn the screwdriver, rotate and wiggle the rotor so that the screw will go farther in. Use a hand-held screwdriver, not a Phillips bit on a socket wrench because the torque specification on these is very low! They do NOT need to be tightened to the point where they are hard to remove. Remember, this holds the rotor in place while installing the brakes. When the wheel is on and torqued, the screws do nothing to hold the disc in place. The applied torque to the rotor via the lug nut (and wheel) is quite a lot more.---
11. Attach the custom relocators to the caliper carrier bracket using 14mm hex head non-flange bolts and washers. Line up the bolt heads so that they are parallel with the adapter brackets. Torque should be between 40 and 46lb-ft.
12. Attach the relocator bracket/caliper bracket to the rear spindle.
13. Put the pads in the caliper bracket. Make sure the retaining clips are in the bracket.
14. If the pads are new, compress the caliper's piston with either a caliper compression tool from Autozone, or use a steel file and slide it into the + of the piston. Turn it clockwise to get it to move back into the piston bore. The piston's grooves must be in a + shape when done or the caliper will not slide over the pads, so have it like a plus + , not an x .
15. Attach the caliper to the caliper bracket. Now the brakes can work hydraulically. To keep the e-brake able to work, you must swap the remaining piece (the L shaped e-brake guide with the hole in it) from one rear caliper to that of the other side. The left caliper's original L shaped e-brake cable guide should go onto the right caliper, and vice versa. Keep this piece off, and repeat steps 2 through 15 on the other rear brake.
16. When the other side has completed steps 2 through 15, bolt the left cable guide onto the right caliper, and the right onto the left.
17. Push the brake pedal until it gets firm again to remove the slack in the piston till it allows the pads to contact the rotor.
18. Attach the e-brake cable, push the spring clip (u-shaped) in and hit it with a plastic hammer, slide the pin in and push in the locking spring clip.
19. You're done with the brakes! Put the wheels on and lower the car. Then go bed the brakes in by either going easy on them for the first 200 miles, or via a fast brake-in procedure outlined in my other posts or via a brake bed-in guide.

NOTE: If you are running a rear disc setup that does NOT use civic/integra rear spindles (like a custom drum-to-disc adapter) this setup will NOT bolt on and will require further modification that I will not list.

Malakai

Nice. I like it. How much for the setup?

Malakai

Also, any other pics showing more detail?

DSMAddicted

This is great Mike, thanks for sharing.

+1 for pics, especially pics of the custom bracket.

unusual71

like this?

BrakeExpert

Not quite. And those are custom rotors. But similar.

FlewByU352

Curious, has anyone tried the 11.1" rear disc with ITR or EP3 calipers? More piston area, pad area, but with more braking torque than the 10.2" rears. I've toyed around with the idea for quite some time.

BrakeExpert

Yeah I have. It doesn't fit. The bracket cannot clear as the knuckle and holes overlap. If you try and make it, you'll see what I mean.

FlewByU352

I guess I don't understand why because I have bolted ITR rear calipers directly on a GSR RTA and used 10.2" disc off a 4x100 EP3. Same mounting as the smaller GSR rear caliper.

BrakeExpert

As I said, try and and you'll see why. If I could have made this setup and been able to build it for others, I would have. Its just the physical space in there.

FlewByU352

I'm just trying to visualize it and I'm thinking it's too close just because the caliper only needs to come out 0.9" vs 1.7" with the smaller GSR caliper.

tron_

Good stuff man, definitely going to look into this.

One question: Using the stock GSR/Si/etc rear disc pad, I notice that the wipe area is greatly decreased. Any idea how you could increase the contact patch between the pad and rotor? Would that be beneficial or does the additional stopping torque from using a large rotor enough to make a noticible difference?

BrakeExpert

Lot of people seem to complain about this. Most cars out there don't use all of the swept area that could be used, guess people don't care for this one. There is no way to get more area used. You can either use the bigger caliper/pad on the 10.2" disc, or this caliper/pad on the larger 11.1" disc. This one offers more torque and is overall lighter. And yes it gives additional brake torque. Brake torque does matter, thats probably the biggest factor. Everyone seems to be concerned with piston size, but thats the force applied. Any rotor/pad will lockup with X amount of pressure applied to it, so a bigger piston affects pedal modulation, but at the limit, does nothing to affect the friction applied. The bigger the disc, the more brake torque. I've run this compared to the smaller 10.2" with the bigger pad and slightly bigger piston and this setup is better. I came up with this 1. because its lighter (as a whole) and offers more brake torque and 2. the ITR/CTR rear calipers are just a lot more uncommon. The Civic/Integra rear calipers are common and cheaper and since so many people wanted a setup like this to clear 15s, I came up with it I admit so I could sell it, but also as an option because getting the ITR/CTR rear 10.2" setup is hard and expensive, and this doesn't require any brake bleeding and retains full functionality of the e-brake.

Libertariat

I've got that very setup from BrakeExpert, works amazingly. E-brake works fantastic and it looks a LOT better than the tiny integra rear disks that were replaced.

tron_

^I remember seeing the thread about it on your hatch. Car still looks awesome dude.

And BrakeExpert, thanks for the info can you PM me a price on what you are selling this for?

Kozy.

The axle does not care where the torque comes from, only how much of it there is. You can generate brake torque with either more leverage (rotor diameter) or force (piston diameter). The wheel will lock when the tangential force at the tyre contact patch (axle torque divided by rolling radius) is more than the grip available, (proportional to vertical load multiplied by the co-efficient of friction).

Bigger rotors are favourable for there effects on heat dissipation, without doubt, but both pistons and the rotor affect the brake torque in fairly equal measure.

safedriver

iTrader: (1)

No one mentioned the size of the front rotors.
Stock front rotors are about 10.2" and stock rear are about 9.2"

If someone increases the rear up to 11.1", shouldn't the fronts be equal to or greater than 11.1"?

Kozy.

Not necessarily. The rotor size is only one small part of what makes up the brake balance.

What running big rear brakes with small front brakes will do is alter the heat balance. The stock systems are designed so that the mass of the rotor is roughly proportional to the amount of heat that axle sees. If the front brakes do 80% of the energy conversion, then they'll have around 80% of the total mass of the rotors. This is intended to ensure the heat is distributed evenly and the pad friction co-efficients stay balanced and predictable between the front and rear axles over numerous stops.

If you change this ratio, then the respective axles heat up at different rates, the pad frictions change accordingly and so does your bias.

It's not always as simple as bigger = better.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

OP said: "gives improved brake torque, better fade resistance, and better brake balance for people with Type-R or larger front brakes."

I probably wouldn't do this conversion if I were keeping the stock Civic or non-R Integra front brakes.

safedriver

iTrader: (1)

Yes, you're right. I missed it. I was distracted by the pretty pretty picture, directly above your quote.

hassanriz

nice info here as usual brake expert

PURPLERANGER

don't wanna bump such an old thread but better than creating another thread without searching... anyways is the relocator bracket still available, or is BrakeExpert just going to tell us how to make our own? haha

FlewByU352

Either PM BrakeExpert or try FastBrakes.com

I'm still willing to put time into making the ITR/EP3 rear calipers and pads work with the 11.1" setup. It may not be as simple as plate steel and holes drilled in it, but that's what billet stock and a CNC machine is for.

PURPLERANGER

BrakeExpert hasn't been active for the past month and a half
and FastBrakes.com does have a 11 inch rear kit BUT the rotors are slotted & drilled, I have no problem with slotted but I can't do drilled.

EDIT: Can I use "Honda designed" brakes from FastBrakes.com, because I've only been looking at Integra categorized products.