forbiddenera

Consider this my built thread .. mods, move if misplaced..

edit: this post is outdated. I will add a new post with updated mods and link here for comparison

Things I have done, were done or installed:
- b18b1 swap (done before I got car)
- switched out D dizzy for B dizzy
- switched out p06 ecu for chipped p28 running cromegold at first and now ectune)
- 3000rpm launch control, VSS activated under 14km/h, 6950 fuel cut
- base map imported from JDM b18b running 94 E10 usually *what ARE the differences? Jdm b18b has more hp, some of that is in the tune obviously but the jdm also has higher compression as far as I've read? Different pistons?*
- installed PLX Wideband Gen4 with Touchscreen gauge, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this unit, very versatile (wide and narrowband output, has battery voltage sensor, o2 health and response time and analog and digital outputs for all and sensors from plx can be daisy chained into a single or multipe gauge(s) if younwant) though there's a few small design oversights, the gauge and control box are mostly seperatable so you can pull the box and sensor out (don't *need* the gauge even) to tune another car except a couple wires. A snip, connectors and solder/shrinkwrap later, I can now remove it quickly without having to remove all my tucked wires.
- autometer narrowband monitoring the plx's generated nb output
- autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge with copper line
- Blox 3 port oil sandwich plate feeding gauge and turbo
- ENDYN catch can kit
- base map is being tweaked and street tuned myself, not complete yet tho
- added dash clock from a SI
- si cluster? 9k tach
- brand new windshield
- ebay short shifter
- ebay shift ****
- nice upper sway bar w/tension bolts
- JDM Integra Type R 4x114.3 swap (front is done)
- new axles
- new tie rods
- 440cc racetronix saturated injectors, car is wired to accept a resistor box or p'n'h driver easily by plugging in
- energy suspension bushings everywhere up front
- energy suspension shifter bushings
- Injen short pipe intake (retained with turbo)
- gsp t3/t4 turbo
- jdm sport intercooler & piping
- unknown/ebay? BOV (will upgrade soon)
- center console from coupe/sedan
- shitty clear corners on the front
- evil h logo on rear (upside down acura logo), stripped badges everywhere else, except "Civtegra" on the rear. Filling in holes and trim indents one day.
- 1*10" infinity 1000w, fronts are kicker coax, rears are next? (wierd brand but sounded better than highly reviewed kenwood kfc6569 a client gave me and compared to) 6x9s on the shelf, US accoustics amp for sub, dual 4ch amp for speakers. No deck/head unit, I use my tablet wired straight to the amps. I had one but it died, only used the auxiliary in for my tablet anyway really so its no loss
- audio gear will be removed for rollcage install, and then I may design a custom easily removable fibreglass enclosure that will fit around the cage. Wires will have quick disconnects and the power is already on automotive breaker (I don't use fuses often for that stuff). I may also strip it out and never put it back in, I do want to occasionally street it when it's done but that may not be possible, its hardly practical, it'd only be an occasional thing for shows or cruises but depending on rollcage fitment I may never drive it without a helmet..? Just saw a full rhd race car w cage driving around the other day w his gf

Current goals/things I'm doing (bold means in progress or have purchased):
- get car running great (runs decent now, tune needs work, running eCtune Tuner)
- install unorthodox racing cam gears when I do new timing belt
- do another valve adjustment, replace valve seals, hope I burn less oil.
- get rear end tight, do 4x114.3 and disc brake swap on rear (have rta, need new rta bushings tho)
- fix up body rust, replace both bumpers, tailgate from rear ender, replace fenders, I am considering doing hood & fenders in fibreglass for weight savings and easy replacement.
- install 11lb ACT flywheel, current clutch is fine (feels like a stage 2, definitely better than oem, much crisper feel and quicker engagement compared to my friends hatch with same swap) but debating replacing while it's open anyway.
- build custom wing, fibreglass.. or get si spoiler?
- get one piece projector headlights, new tail lights, add lots of rally/fog lights
- add more front lighting/fogs, wire switches according to CARS/FIA spec
- installing turbo parts: manifold, intercooler, compressor, charge pipes, blow off, wastegate.
- new brake rotors and pads front/rear, maybe will do 11" prelude rotors and vigor? calipers for front, not sure about rear yet (currently Re-using the brakes that came with them as pads are nearly new and the rotors while surface rusted look decent)..now have option to order oem brakes for this setup.
- paint/plastidip
- buy/fab & install rollcage to CARS Rally (FIA) specs (probably $3000?)
- buy & install CARS & FIA approved seats and harnesses.
- install a secondary battery cut-off switch to CARS/FIA specs.
- beef up suspension for rally. Raise car like an inch, thinking about using hot bitz, any other good suggestions for rally SUSPENSION? HotBits dt2 is like $3000.
- have car inspected by scrutineering, get log book!
- rally.

So around December of last year, I was driving a girl friends Auto 95 Sedan w. D15B7 when this douche bag runs a stop sign and smash into the passenger side. Not a write off but lots of work to fix. Parked, for now, will maybe get a mini-me as I have a z6 head for it.

Went and started looking for a replacement car, found a B18B1 swapped hatch that needed some love for $600 CAD, which came with a second set of aluminum VW rims and even had a decent adjustable strut bar! The car seemed pretty decent on the test drive and looked half decent, though it was dark. The sedan was really sketchy on the highway after the accident and really needed something so I grabbed it for Christmas, my present to myself, planning to drive it whIle fixing the sedan and eventually making it into a budget rally car.

Knew it needed some love but how much I didn't, the previous owner was not mechanically inclined and had the car serviced at various major garages, including crappytire (Canadian Tire) and had receipts going back 10 years. It was the guy before him who did the swap. I was a bit weary buying a swap from the second owner but figured if it lasted him 10 years and was still going strong, it couldn't be THAT bad, could it?

One of the first things I noticed was that oil was leaking, eek. Found it was coming from the distributor and noticed only 1 bolt was holding the dizzy in and that it was like 90 degrees rotated, then I realized..IT WAS THE ORIGINAL D SERIES DISTRIBUTOR! So, fixed that real quick, found one from a teg for sale locally, installed it in the parking lot where I met the guy to buy it.

Within a week of buying it, the exhaust (apparently there was a performance exhaust but was removed by P.O. due to loudness and replaced with 'OEM' style by Canadian Tire) snapped right in the middle, YAY LOUD CAR. Went to crappytire and enquired if they would fix it for free or even a discounted rate and to ask why they put a Civic sized exhaust on a car with an Integra motor and also failed to install a catalytic converter, line it up right or at least slap in a flexpipe to account for the crappy fit. I got no help there (fair enough the exhaust was 10 years old, though all of the rest of it is in perfect shape except where it rusted thru their shitty welds and snapped), surprise surprise, they wouldn't even offer me 5% off if I did decide to pay them to fix it.

That got me wondering so, I pulled up the carpet on the passenger side and checked what ECU it was running, I was hoping to see something like PR4 or P74 or P75, but I saw P06 instead. Fingers crossed, I immediately opened it up to see if it was chipped, thinking it had to be for the car to run even half decent. It wasn't. Here I was running a B series with a D series distributor (barely) hanging off my head and D15B7 maps. The car ran pretty well like this too, well enough it went unnoticed by the previous owner and all the shops he ever took the car to for 10 years.

I began looking for a chipped ECU, ended up with two and a burner. Loaded up some b18b1 maps and burned them, for *****'n'gigglez I decided to compare the maps, IIRC there was upto 29 degrees..!! of timing difference at some points in the map, as well it was leaner, I could tell that even just from a narrowband gauge! Threw in the chipped box along with new plugs (old ones didn't look happy from lean/advanced timing) and it ran better. Ordered myself a PLX Gen4 wideband with touchscreen gauge. I highly recommend this unit, accurate, no calibration needed, nice gauge, analog and digital outputs for both simulated narrowband and wideband and they have other sensors/gauges the hook in digitally and all added sensors can even be data logged straight in hondata DIGITALLY (no ground offsets for wideband or any others!), show up on the touchscreen gauge and AFAIK should also show up on the tunerview app thru hondata. I don't have Hondata yet so I haven't tested any of this but it does have provisions.

Did a compression test, not great results but not terrible either. Went to do my tbase timing and had a feeling something was off. Pulled the valve cover to see and found my intake cam (IIRC) was advanced a tooth, fixed it then did a valve adjustment that was done to the tight side of the specs but actually made my valve train much louder..? Compared to my friends b18b1, big difference. Some louder makes a bit of sense as my lash was cranked all the way down (couldn't get the smallest feeler in before adjustment) but still a little loud. Haven't done a compression test since fixing the timing. Planning on doing the valves again to see if I can make it a bit quieter.

Went to get gas one day, set the pump to $5 because I was at a crap Staton and wanted to get 94 elsewhere, it kept pumping when I went to pay, I disagreed with the owner regarding payment and he smashed my dricers side read quarter window out. A week later, a guy runs up to my car in traffic from the sidewalk offering me a window. He had a spare, does glass for a living and did a good job. He also has the same car (95 dx hatch) with the same swap from same year car (b18b1 from 99 integra). He just turbo'd his, I started tuning it for him on eCtune and he went and spun a bearing..oops. He'll be doing my windshield soon too.

I was looking for car stuff for sale locally and found a set of super rare Japanese SSR Indy 500 wheels, unfortunately they were 4x114.3. But they were soo pretty, and the price was too good to pass up. I sold the aluminum VW rims for $240 and picked up the SSRs for $300, a $60 net difference, $60 for a nice set rare JDM wheels is a good deal even if they are the wrong bolt pattern.

About two weeks ago, I got rear ended by a Ford F150, didn't do much damage but hurt, settled with the other driver out of insurance for $375, I wanted more but the damage was limited to a dent in the tailgate and more stress on my busted up front end as I was on the brakes.

forbiddenera

I knew I wanted to upgrade to bigger brakes and 4 wheel disc, so I acquired a 96spec Integra Type R 4x114.3 knuckle/hub swap. Actually had emailed a local jdm supplier (jdmsource.ca) because they had it on their site with the 96specR wheels for 750 asking if they'd sell it without the wheels, I didn't get a response and tried again a few months later and they said sure, $350 and it's mine. Went and grabbed 'em that day.

I knew I'd need some new bushings and balljoints, so I grabbed some Energy Suspension bushings and ordered some generic balljoints (for now) off rockauto. I knew itd be easier to do the bushings with the LCAs off the car, so I went to pick'n'pull and grabbed some off a Teggy along with it's swaybar. Went to press out the old bushings and realized I needed more, the Energy Suspension front LCA kit doesn't include the lower shock mount bushing (which goes in the lca) and that is part of the shock mount bushing set. So I grab that too and some swaybar endlinks and bushings.

​The LCAs I grabbey were a bit rusty and needed to be cleaned up and protected from future rust. Lots of work without a sand blaster.

Tried burning out one of the bushings but couldn't get the shell out, don't have a hacksaw and my Dremel wouldn't fit well inside to cut it out. Gonna hit it up with a hydraulic press tomorrow.

The first pic was the first lca after about an hour with a drill and various wire wheel and wire cup bits. Oo shiny thing. Don't care much about the colors, red was for Honda red, wanted to rust protect it more than anything, figured the different colors emphasizes the fact they're separate pieces. Might still go black if it stands out too much.

forbiddenera

Had a crazy pedestrian jump in front of my car last night while going to press out the lca bushings.

Nightmare. Cops have the car for investigation. I was questioned and released as my statement matched witness reports,

CX-Adam

WTF?

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

either greatest troll in history or very funny.

forbiddenera

I wish it was a troll! :'( And no, it's really not funny..FML..I normally probably wouldn't post about this but I feel a bit better getting it out and it seems like a decent community here and I have at least 4 or 5 real-life friends who frequent here.

Guy wasn't in his right mind and I got the unfortunate end, tried to avoid him as he was acting violent and seemed like he was about to smash my car or pull me out of it. This was after I passed him coming the other direction as he was jaywalking without even looking for traffic. I honked very briefly as I stopped and let him pass. I then had to turn around about a half block up, and then found him stand in in the middle of the road, sort of making gestures like he wanted to fight, I decided to try and drive away and as I was going passed him, he jumped in front of my car and rolled over the roof, causing some damage to the roof and I think my passenger headlight died but I didn't see damage to it.

He's 'okay' as far as I've heard, was told he won't have any permanent injuries, thank the powers that be, I know nothing more but I hope he gets psychological as well as physical treatment while in the hospital. Some might say he deserved it but unfortunately, I do know what it's like to be so pissed at life that you cross the street and don't give a **** if you get hit, so I don't hold it against him and I hope he's okay and gets the help he needs. At least I hope that's the case and not just that he's an ignorant *******..?

Totally random incident. Cops were super nice to me, actually never had them be nicer in any situation I've dealt with them. They took my statement and released me. I made an appointment to see a counselor this week, I still almost feel like I'm in shock 24 hours later. I'm usually a very safe driver and generally always have my dash cam going, unfortunately it only saves on 3G+ impact or if I press a button (within 5 minutes) and being in shock, I forgot, which makes me think I should change that setting and dedicate more storage to it.

Unfortunately I have no idea when I'll see the car again, all my tools, supplies, both my tuning and programming laptop are in it which also puts me out of work. Once it's released, I'm told it goes straight to impound, so I'm going to have to pay SOMETHING to get it back, hopefully not more than it's worth, our impound fees are basically extortion, $32 per day plus at least $125-150 or so for the tow (which I may have to pay 2x), I'm hoping I don't have to pay for the time it's in the forensics lot. What do I do, sue the guy for the cost? I do have a EG sedan I can use for now, if I don't hear anything by tomorrow I'll swap my insurance over, but it also needs front end work.

I don't think it will be too long, now that they have mine and witness statements, I don't think they actually will need to process it. Literally a day after I finally make this thread because I wanted to log all the work I was going to do this week before a big road trip and I wanted to crate a detailed photolog of a 96specR ITR 114.3 swap with fresh bushings. Ironically, my balljoints arrived from rockauto today. I didn't even answer the door after the night I'd had, they'll come back tomorrow.

F.M.L.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

ok, much less funny than originally assumed. you need to be super vigilant in getting the car as soon as the wheels touch the impound lot. those guys are super grimy. your local laws are pretty unfair, i don't see why you should be paying anything for an accident that presumably wasn't your fault.

tony_2018

You turn around for what reason? You should've kept going. Back on topic or close this thread since you're not getting your car back.

forbiddenera

I'll be getting the car back, and yes I'm calling the impound 2-3x daily. I'm hoping maybe I won't have to pay, but in a situation like this the other persons insurance usually covers this and pedestrians don't carry insurance. I may have to take him to civil court after.

Going to put a plate on my sedan and see if I can use a friend's shop for work in the meantime.

Back on topic, my upper and lower balljoints actually arrived today (they came yesterday but after the night I had before I didn't feel like answering the door), I'm pretty sure I ordered MAS parts, maybe MOOG, came to around 80 CAD for all 4. I will post pics shortly and comment on their quality, if I gave time today too, I will go to the shop and finish up pressing out bushings on the control arms.

Got the shock mount bushings out with a press but the end bushings are seemingly quite difficult to remove even with a press as there's no edge on the outside or bottom to rest the arm on while pressing it out. Any suggestions?

forbiddenera

Well the ball joints (which the receipt says originate from China) I got from rockauto were MAS. Balljoints were from China but the boxes they came in were printed in Canada and the parts were supposed to ship from USA I thought but the return address on the box is actually LOCAL in my city, though it seems to look up to a 3rd party courier (Apple Express/Dynamex). The import address on the invoice is in USA (Madison WI) and the ship via adress is in San Bernardino CA.

Regardless, they did come surprisingly quick, I ordered on the evening of the 19th, shipped on the 20th, and they first arrived by courier on the 26th. They said it would arrive by Aug 1st when I first ordered, and then changed that to July 29th when it was shipped. Shipping was supposed to take 2 to 8 business days, it took 4 or 5 (depending on how you count it)

Shipping was $10 USD and the balljoints were $40 USD for all of them, both sides upper and lower.

MAS BJ59016
MAS B9802 replaces K9802

They look like they may be decent quality but we all know looks generally mean SFA.

The uppers have zerk fittings, the lowers do not. The uppers/lowers may be from slightly different product lines (note the slight difference in part# style) I believe the lowers I wanted weren't in stock or something? I don't remember exactly, I'd have to check the rockauto site.

Anyone ever used these BJs?

forbiddenera

I probably should have, I was in an unfamiliar area and was trying to get back onto the main road which is why I turned around.

Still looking for ideas on removing the front lca end bushing with a press? The best idea me and the shop mechanics have come up with is to do our best to clamp it down. As there's no real lip or edge on the control arm and the "bottom" of the bushing's (when pressing it out) flanges diameter is wider than the hole, so if I were to put a press on it the arm moves with the press like a lever. We thought about trying a balljoint tool as well maybe and quickly tried throwing one on before we left the shop the other day but didn't get anywhere with it.

Excuse my crude drawing, did it on my tablet with no stylus.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

here ya go. https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspen...t-lca-2411953/

forbiddenera

I'll check that out thanks.

So, I put the sedan on the road. Went on vacation. Friday comes, they say I have to sign papers Monday for them to inspect the car. Sunday comes, they say forget it and my car is released and will be towed to impound.

I call all day Monday, it doesn't arrive. I inquire about costs, am told $650ish but that might change due to it not arriving yet and some may be written off, basically it could go up or town.

Tuesday, I keep calling, finally they tell me the badge # of the cop I need to speak with, I email him. He replies in his off time before work (one of the guys who took my statement, they were super nice then too) and shoots off another email to the dept with my car to get info. Shortly later he says the towing is in the works but hes not sure when. This was at 1pm and the officer didn't start work til 4pm. Around 4.30 I get another email saying it will be towed tonight for sure. Go for a walk in the park and get the call it's arrived and go pick it up.

Charges were only $170, I only had to pay for towing.

Oh, and of course, since 1. My plate expired while it was seized, and 2. I couldn't retrieve it and needed my 2nd car, I had to get a new plate. Oh well, now both cars will have plates and insurance full time.

Now I'm going to go see if the shop I left my lcas at got bored and got the bushings out.

Oh yeah, something is clicking/cracking sometimes on steer, not sure exactly what yet, not impressed. Hate tow drivers sometimes. I'd be more pissed if I wasn't in the middle of a front end replacement.

The roof damage isn't as bad as I thought either.

GreatWave

iTrader: (5)

Glad to hear you finally got it back!

forbiddenera

Actually saw this thread before hand, did burn one out but didn't have a good enough tool to cut the insert, my Dremel wasn't cutting it so I pressed it out

forbiddenera

Sat down the other day and de-pinned a bunch of spare ECU connectors. I swear some of them just don't like to come out.

Pinned in a bunch for current eCtune/future Hondata. 95% of them are actually the stock Honda colors for the pins I added, got lucky in having exactly the spare colors needed.

Now I can add switches to say, enable/disable launch control, burnout limit, full throttle shift, dual maps for 87/94 Octane (or quad maps for whatever, if I never use vtec), fuel pump cut.

Also will be adding pwm boost control to ecu, so will have boost control switches and adjustment **** should have a cheap turbo and mani soon thanks to an HT member.

A/C pins were already there of course, so I added and labelled:

VTEC Pressure Switch
VTEC Solenoid Output (actually maybe forgot this one haha)
Power Steering Pressure Switch
D10 ELD (CADM cars don't have ELD) for wb02, ecu is modded for 0-5v on D10.
B6 Input
Rad Fan Control, was surprised to see nothing there, I guess my fan is strictly controlled by the temp switch? How is this wired in on cars with it, just to the relay I've read or..?
Alternator Control (no eld=no altc=extra output)
EGR lift and sensor
IAB output
M/T clutch switch
KS input (ecu not capable atm but may install one day for logging)
Interlock output (I could've sworn ectune supported using this output but maybe it was a diff one, pinned anyway)
Ics (maybe missed this one too, don't think most progs support it anyway)

Labelled a few I didn't have to add like a/c in/out, scc, bksw, mil.

forbiddenera

Oh, I also spent some time diagnosing my map and some drivability issues.

For some reason my deceleration cut was coming on too soon, adjusted it down a bit and fixed that.

Adjued my overall fuel trim a bit more rich and feels much better, really need to spend some more time dialing it in but it's difficult to load it properly on the street and I'm not going to pay for dyno time until at *least* the turbo is installed and functioning properly.

forbiddenera

In the works of ordering a few toys from a fellow member..

Turbo, Mani, oil stuff
Injectors
Flywheel

Should be paid for this weekend and hopefully shipped right after. :-)

Will still need:
Blow off
Wastegate
Downpipe / exhaust fab
Intake piping & intercooler.

I am considering selling my Injen intake and using that cash toward some charge pipes/IC, probably a good idea.

forbiddenera

Had a chance to take the car out on some of my favorite rally courses. Was fun but, I wasn't impressed with the handling, even my automatic Sedan (same year) seemed better for ruddering (steering with weight transfer mostly, using one foot on brake other on gas and comodulating them) . Going to have to make some adjustments for sure, I wonder if it's a wheelbase difference thing.

sedan 103.4
Hatch 101.2

Hmm. Lots of tweaks required. Car is a bit too low too, obviously my mostly stock suspension is too soft

Also just sent PayPal to a fellow member to order a bunch of goodies..

Turbo, manifold, adjustable cam gears, injectors, turbo oil feed/drain, sandwhich plate, 11lb flywheel.

Will finish up the bushings and balljoints this week and install the front half of my 4x114.3 swap.

forbiddenera

Officially ordered almost $400 in parts from a fellow member, got a good deal it seems like!

11lb flywheel
Ebay Turbo
Ebay mani
AN feed/drain
Blox sandwhich plate
440cc injectors
UR adjustable cam gears

I think that's it..? Apparently a 40lb 13x13x8 box is coming my way!

Once I finish the front end and get an alignment (this ******* week I hope cuz I just ripped up a 4th set of tires), I will get a decent wastegate and blow off, intercooler and some charge piping (buy my Injen intake for your N/A and help me out, see my sales thread) downpipe and then bolt on, get some welds done and tune.

My motor has been burning quite a bit of oil and I think I'll want to fix that before boost, and even so will be staying under 7lbs to start until I have a second built block ready to drop in when I blow it up.

I should point out that I know I won't be ready until next year at least and will still be dailying this car with the occasional trip to the mountains and rally trails for a while.

forbiddenera

Got a set of 15" steelies with random winter tires (like 185 or 195 65 or something silly, off a CL) for $40 for now because my 4th set went to belts.

Good news is they don't rub and they're similar (same?) size to what's on the nice 15s I'll be putting on (until I can get decent tires on the 15s). Again, I'll never rally on the SSRs (or even hit a dirt road if I can avoid it) so I'll need a set of 4x114.3 beater rims, preferably some thing light. I may go see if the place who sold me the swap still has the itr wheels but it almost seems like blasphemy to use them on gravel.

Eventually I'll want some rally spec wheels.

Might put off the 4x114.3 swap for a little longer, hearing some CV clicking ever since the car was towed (CVs were apparently done a few years ago..?)

I say **** it, new axles are 125 cad off rockauto will do me til I can afford some DSS or something.

Might grab some cheap inner/outer tie rods while I'm at it, though might look at good ones too, any good brands to check out? My steering is pretty tight so I had planned on leaving it but I figure my be I should do it all, since I'm doing all bushings up front, upper and lower balljoints, adding an integra swaybar, swapping knuckles from a 96spec JDM ITR.

forbiddenera

A fellow UK member with a 96spec JDM ITR found some Honda OEM brake pads and rotors for front/rear online btw.

I was going to use the rotors/pads that came with the swap for now, pads have LOTS of life left and rotors look fine, there's surface rust from sitting but my brand new brakes from 1 year ago on my sedan looked the same when I swapped them to my Hatch 3 months ago after sitting for 6 months so Im not concerned.

Eventually I'll need replacements and whIle I was considering doing 11" Prelude SR-V rotors up front, wasn't sure about the rears. I know Fastbrakes.Com sells replacements now, but it's nice to have a Honda OEM option.

Brakes

forbiddenera

Also decided to switch to semi-synthetic high milage oil because:

1. It's cheap
2. My engine is burning too much oil right now to use Royal Purple or anything expensive-ish.

forbiddenera

Scheduled to arrive Sept 6 by end of day. Thanks to member schneedrache.

forbiddenera

Ordered Cardone Select (brand new, not remanufactured) left/right axles today, was looking into mayble Raxles or DSS but I am doing the rest of my front end right away and want to get rid of the CV clicking for now while it's my daily. They have a lifetime warranty.

Also ordered some MOOG tie rod ends, figure if I'm doing everything else, might as well. While my current ones seem good and tight, I have no idea if they're slightly bent or anything.

Will be putting a plate back on the Sedan as it still has insurance and using it to get to/from work while I do the front end work on mine. It's going to need an alignment right away, and I also ordered new timing belt/water pump, alternator/ps/ac belts for that one since they're getting old/worn and I have no idea the shape of the timing belt. Forgot a valve cover gasket though, but I can get one local if I need one.

Next up, hardrace RTA bushings, intercooler & piping, wastegate and blow off valve.

Oh, ordering 2 boost controller kits off xenocron right now too because I'm too lazy to piece them together from my local electronics store/online. Actually, that's a lie, I tried, but not every piece was available and I'm too lazy to search for suitable replacements.

Wee.