jcm3

I have a 1990 Integra that I am setting up and I am down to simply deciding on spring rates for the car... I think I've settled on using Ground Control but I need to know what the best front and rear rates are... from your experience.

I am going to get the double adjustable Koni Sports and I will have them revalved for the specified spring... So I need to make the all important decision ragarding spring rates and I don't want to buy twice...

Any input would be most kind folks

Hook a brotha up!!!

Thx

John

.RJ

Unfortunately you're going to end up buying twice. and thrice. You'll make changes as you get comfortable with the car, change the setup, change tires, play with swaybar settings, driver preference, track conditions/types, etc, etc.

I'd say 600/900 is a good start and will probably go higher from there.

Tyson

wait a minute rj, he hasnt even told us what the car is being "setup" for...

jcm3

Yeah you're right about that... I know I will buy several times... I guess I should be more clear when I mean that I don't want to buy twice to start out... I am looking for the ideal or as close to ideal as possible combination so I have a good starting point. Instead of buying a junk setup and chasing the problems with money... If ya know what I mean...

jcm3

I am setting up the car for H4 in the WCHC series...

jcm3

If you want to check out the car go to

http://www.headonphotos.net and go to the "Apr 5 THill" race and select car # 100

jcm3

or better yet just click on this http://speedtoys.com/~headonph...5/100/

Tyson

there's a couple ppl on the west running ITA/H4 integras.

maybe greg marshall, bulldog, can give you advice on his car.

ron carroll runs a newly built integra in SCCA SF region H4. look for him in improvedtouring.com pacific region forum. his car was built on the advice of nick theroux, who also built a ITA integra 2 years ago and won the championship. the car is now with john beckwith in oakland, but he hasnt made many appearances at the track lately.

i think theres another ITA integra that runs in socal that is on this forum as well.

but i tihnk they are all running higher than 900 in the rear. heck, nicks CRX which he won several championships with had 900's in the rear.... which is why i had em, but i dont need em anymore. but if you want to try em, ill sell em to ya.

DB2-R81

I will make a few suggestions based on my experance that may help you into a starting range, I presently run a 93 EP solo I, II Integra that see track days regularly. I have moved through a number of suspension setup beginning with Eibach Pro kit springs and Koni single adjustables 10 years ago.

Currently at 2050 lbs with Advanced Design dampers, running 8” X 650 lbs front, 8” X 850 lbs rear springs on 23” X 9” X 15”, G19 Goodyear slicks and Suspension Techniques 19 mm rear anti sway bar. The car is not lowered excessively but I do bottom out the front suspension on irregular surfaces more frequently then would be ideal for a track only car.

I recommend you consider going a bit higher that 600 lbs in the front RJ suggested as a starting point. The front suspension design on the G2 Integra is severely travel limited due to the sloping fender/hood profile, more so then most Honda’s. 850 to 900 lbs in the rear is in the ballpark but I would suggest 700 to 750 lbs in the front with the more consistent loading and less then table tops you will encounter for a track only car at a higher regulated minimum race weight.

Like other have suggested there is no ideal spring rates only suggestion dependent on your tires, running surface, driving style, weather conditions, suspension settings‚………etc. If you are serious and looking to be competitive you will be purchasing more than a single set of springs.

I would also recommend you have your dampers built with 700 to 750 lbs front spring rates at the bottom end of your adjustment range as you will likely go with higher rates as you become more familiar with the car.

In general, soft is better than stiff. A softly suspended car will keep more rubber on the road over irregularities. Where stiff becomes desirable is when the car has undesirable dynamic characteristics, so you set it where you want it in static, and then make the car really stiff to keep it there. The other reason to make a car, or at least one end of it really stiff is to affect the weight transfer, and therefore the balance of the car. HTH




Modified by DB1-R81 at 4:55 AM 9/21/2003

jcm3

I see your from Canada??? What tracks do you race and what is under the hood?

Do you have a race series web site I can check out and look at the rules etc...

jcm3

OK I need to bring this post back to life! I am looking for feedback on setup...

2k1_ITR_0736

I myself am interested in joining the competitions. i have no i dea whats expected, and what is normal, but i have a feeling my vehicle will do well after the winter, considering i have a decent setup, with great suspension, and a monster motor. i drive fairly well i guess. i dunno, wanna try to compete in atleast one road race..

.RJ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k1_ITR_0736 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i dunno, wanna try to compete in atleast one road race.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just sign up for a Driving school/event/HPDE and expect to have lots of fun