HYBRIDCIVIC007

Ok so i used some sort of turtle wax polishing compound that came in that little cylinder shaped plastic jar. I washed the car, clay barred the car the used my buffer and the polish. It left these glazy swirls all over my hood. So i tried to wash them out the clay bar then buff wax them out. They are still there. I didnt use the buffer on super high or anything so what the hell. I cant get these things out and my hood looks like ****. Please help!!!

GriFFIthS

i had wax baked on to my car once and was like if for a week in the sun, when i got back it wouldnt come off at all, washed it at least 5 times and still wouldnt come off, i got a bucket of really hot water, dish liquid soap and a microfiber cloth and washed, it all came out in a few minutes.
if you try this wear rubber gloves.

Rbehne2

Try to find this stuff called "Spray Nine". It'll get the wax and any dirt off. after you clean the area, use a micro fiber cloth to apply your wax/polish and go buy a new White T-shirt, cut that into rags (nicely sized), and use them to go back and remove the wax/polish.

You may find that using this method may have your hood looking better than the rest of the car.....

HYBRIDCIVIC007

well thank you sirs!

RoadRage212

Last I checked Turtle Wax didn't make a polish to be used with a buffer. I'd use a higher quality buffing compound such as Meguiars or 3M. Use a medium compound with a wool pad and a light, polishing compound with your mid-grade foam pad.

Follow up with a good, non-paste wax and you should be alright.

Don't use t-shirt material on your paint job. Unless thats what you're using to dry it off after washing. Always use microfiber towels after polishing/compounding. Anything else could damage the surface. Good luck.

E-Rok

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rbehne2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try to find this stuff called "Spray Nine". It'll get the wax and any dirt off. after you clean the area, use a micro fiber cloth to apply your wax/polish and go buy a new White T-shirt, cut that into rags (nicely sized), and use them to go back and remove the wax/polish.

You may find that using this method may have your hood looking better than the rest of the car.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL a t-shirt?????

and why need a proper pad to polish, not a microfiber towel.

RoadRage212

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why need a proper pad to polish, not a microfiber towel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You misunderstand me. Use a microfiber towel to remove excess compounds and polish residue after buffing/polishing.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL a t-shirt?????
</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is what I was thinking.

Rbehne2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LOL a t-shirt?????

and why need a proper pad to polish, not a microfiber towel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This procedure is recommended by 3M and Mattos. I use 3M microfiber towels only to apply rubbing compound and final glaze. All the mf does is smear it more, so you dont want to use another mf towel to remove it. You use T-shirt rags. These also are supplied by both companies.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RoadRage212 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You misunderstand me. Use a microfiber towel to remove excess compounds and polish residue after buffing/polishing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Toss out the Wool idea. This thing will help the abrasive material to "cut" more into your clear coat. Thats why you do this by hand using a softer Cotton T-shirt material.

Whats up with you noobs posing as pros?

RoadRage212

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rbehne2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This procedure is recommended by 3M and Mattos. I use 3M microfiber towels only to apply rubbing compound and final glaze. All the mf does is smear it more, so you dont want to use another mf towel to remove it. You use T-shirt rags. These also are supplied by both companies.

Toss out the Wool idea. This thing will help the abrasive material to "cut" more into your clear coat. Thats why you do this by hand using a softer Cotton T-shirt material.

Whats up with you noobs posing as pros?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yet another post by someone who thinks they acutally do this for a living.
Edit: Try using Micro towels that you didn't buy from the dollar store. They tend to work a lot better.

Rbehne2

ouch, nice comeback. But I guess reading comprehension isn't your thing.

All my materials are 3M.
I just posted that previously.

Professional quality. Something a "professional" headlight polisher knows nothing about.

E-Rok

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rbehne2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This procedure is recommended by 3M and Mattos. I use 3M microfiber towels only to apply rubbing compound and final glaze. All the mf does is smear it more, so you dont want to use another mf towel to remove it. You use T-shirt rags. These also are supplied by both companies.

Toss out the Wool idea. This thing will help the abrasive material to "cut" more into your clear coat. Thats why you do this by hand using a softer Cotton T-shirt material.

Whats up with you noobs posing as pros?</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, ive never heard of applying polish with a mf towel (its supposed to go directly on the pad)

and I hope your last statement wasnt directed at me, because I have about $3000 worth of detailing supplies. I think I know what I am doing.

RoadRage212

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rbehne2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ouch, nice comeback. But I guess reading comprehension isn't your thing.

All my materials are 3M.
I just posted that previously.

Professional quality. Something a "professional" headlight polisher knows nothing about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Keep using your trailer trash t-shirt rags. Keep cutting them up I'm sure thats what Hanes had in mind when they made them. Oh yeah...3M t-shirt rags...priceless. I bet you think they are custom.

HYBRIDCIVIC007

Hahhaha, sorry i keep seeing an add on the right hand side of the screen for UTI (universal technical institute or urinary tract infection) either way they both suck. I sure am glad me and the families $28,000 was used in the right way, ha hah hahaha [freak]. Also, whoever said that turtle wax polish isn't used with a buffer, well either way if your right or wrong, im guessing right, my hood is [freak]ed. Tomorrow i will try the really hot water and dish soap trick and follow up with some good smellin carnuba wax. If not, maybe in a year i can afford some of the polish that yall recommended. After all i am broke now after buying my new black housing headlights(NON projector, cause the projectors are butt ugly). If i wanted to make my elegant clean prelude look like a bug or ****, i would add the projectors. Hahah, well, i just carried the [freak] on for no reason. Sorry guys, i guess headlights are a touchy subject hahah.

HYBRIDCIVIC007

****. so i tried the hot soapy water with a sponge. Yea that [freak]ed up my hood even more. Sorry im just kinda pissed. So instead of just cloudy polish swirls theres a spot for light scratch swirls and on my headlight. I have never done wet sanding and polishing before so i dont even know how to go about that for my hood and headlight. I cant afford any new products so, does anyone have any ideas. I have an engine stand that i will trade for someones expertise on helping. Also anything cheap i can get at auto zone to fix this?

RoadRage212

You're a little too far for me to travel but I'll help you as much as I can on the internet via pictures and whatever else I can do. I'll even let you keep your engine stand. I've already got that covered.

IM me if your interested.

HYBRIDCIVIC007

Ah i knew your accent sounded familiar. (i watched your 3 you tube things) Im from the dallas area, now im stuck in so cal. Anyway my computer wont do the whole IM stuff unfortunately. But i did the headlights thing on my gf's dads van and it worked pretty good, not as well as yours but i got it mostly clearish. So i thought i would wet sand my hood with 2000 and then polish then wax and it was so damn smooth and i think shinier with no swirls. Of course now i only have one little piece of 2000 and 2500 left and i have about 95 percent left of the hood to do. I cant tell if its shinier, cause its so damn sunny theres to much glare. Any quick ideas on how to wet sand my hood, and what to do after, or does that sound ok with my 3 procedures

RoadRage212

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYBRIDCIVIC007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So i thought i would wet sand my hood with 2000 and then polish then wax and it was so damn smooth and i think shinier with no swirls. Of course now i only have one little piece of 2000 and 2500 left and i have about 95 percent left of the hood to do. I cant tell if its shinier, cause its so damn sunny theres to much glare. Any quick ideas on how to wet sand my hood, and what to do after, or does that sound ok with my 3 procedures</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well there's so much to know about wetsanding that I could write a freakin' book. If you are going to wetsand the rest of your hood, there's a few things you should know. If you plan on wetsanding more, then you'll have to pick up more paper.
1. If you don't absolutely have to wetsand it, don't. This goes double for factory paint. The abrasive compounds you'll be using with your buffer can burn through the clear by themselves, wetsanding increases this risk.
2. Use a soft block for wetsanding minor surface imperfections. This includes the removal of severe swirls and using this block will promote a more even sanding effect without gouging with your fingers while not being too harsh on the clear coat. I rep 3M Stick-It pads like my life depended on it.
3. Use a dab of soap in the water you wetsand with and make sure if you're using a bucket to wetsand out of, keep the water clean.
4. Use a back and forth motion. Don't use a circular pattern. Make an NNNNNNN pattern one way, then use a ZZZZZZ pattern the next. This makes for great even coverage and minimizes sanding marks. Only work in 2ft x 2ft sections until that panel is complete or you may get in over your head.
5. Keep a halogen light handy to check after compounding/polishing. If it looks flawless under a bare halogen bulb, then it will be a mirror in the sunlight. Checking for swirl marks, holograms, micro marring or missed sanding spots on horizonal panels in direct sunlight is hard on your eyes and damn near impossible.
If you need anything else, let me know. Also, check my favorites on my YouTube account. There's about 45 minutes of wetsanding how-to videos from the owner of Meguiars. I don't use a lot of Meguiar's products, but those videos are a great reference. Good luck.

HYBRIDCIVIC007

Hahah wow, sounds like someone doesnt know what the hell their doing. Yep, thats me. Well, i did a small part of the hood, and it looked good. So i did the rest, now the whole hood is dullish looking, not a crap load of swirls anymore but its dull now. I dont know which i prefer for the shittier look. Before it was really blotchy with some shiny clear spots now its dull all over (so less mix and matched spots). Hmm, looks like im screwed. The buffer im using is actually an electric drill but it doesnt even sppin as fast as a buffer so im pretty sure i didnt burn the pain. Especially, since it looked dull right after the sanding. I used tons of water with some soap and always kept that water going. I watched, the first few meguirs things but it just seems like it didnt work for me when i tried (apparently). Really sucks cause its the honda white pearl for the preludes. Dammmiiiiitttt. Im really lost now on what to do. You've been very helpful and informative, i just hope your frustration levels and patience can keep up with my problems.

From the fellow texan

RoadRage212

Its okay, man. Don't let your nerves get the best of you. Just remember: It's only a hood.
I need to know what products you're using. I know you're not using the highest standard of materials, but I'd reccomend not using the drill. Seems like it wouldn't go nearly as fast as you'd need it to. Wouldn't be very controllable either.
What did you sand with? How hard did you sand it? I need to know brand names and as much other information you can give me. That way if I haven't heard of it, I can look it up and help you further.
I'm pretty hard to reach during the week because of a freakish schedule I run but I usually log in early in the morning so I'll be checking in again soon. If you don't hear from me for a while, I am not ignoring you. I'll be back.

GriFFIthS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYBRIDCIVIC007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">****. so i tried the hot soapy water with a sponge. Yea that [freak]ed up my hood even more. Sorry im just kinda pissed. So instead of just cloudy polish swirls theres a spot for light scratch swirls and on my headlight. I have never done wet sanding and polishing before so i dont even know how to go about that for my hood and headlight. I cant afford any new products so, does anyone have any ideas. I have an engine stand that i will trade for someones expertise on helping. Also anything cheap i can get at auto zone to fix this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you should never use a sponge on your car EVER.

HYBRIDCIVIC007

Ok The polish that messed it up was.

turtle wax- rubbing compund heavy duty cleaner (its kinda reddish)

then after i sanded using the wetsand rolled over a large sharpie and going long ways (hard to explain?) and also a very rubbery squishy sanding block of course with the 2000and 2500 wetsand under it. during the wetsanding i barely pressed down to make sure i wouldnt scuff

then after that i used
Finish 2001 Car Polish (urethane enriched formula)
-it was the only semi decent polish i had around

then
Turtle Wax super hard shell turtle wax
Meguirs- hitech yellow wax
and
meguirs deep crystal carnauba wax

I love wax i know i went overboard but i tried anything to get some shine back

mfef4dr

Im not sure if someone has already said this but on dark colors we use a swirl mark remover after foam pad then wax. Try that

RoadRage212

The red rubbing compound is part of your problem. You'll never be completely rid of wetsanding marks and swirls without buffing it with a true buffing compound. A rubbing compound is made to be applied to a rag and rubbed into the paint by hand but if you use it with a buffer, you'll have the problems that you're having now.

I think you used plenty of wax, but wax is just a protector, not a polish. You need to use a mild cutting agent with a buffing machine to get those sanding marks out first, then you could probably use that Finish 2001 with a foam pad polisher to get rid of the light siwrls that your initial buffing will create. Then you can go as nuts as you want with the waxes.

BTW ^^^ you can use a swirl remover before waxing and it will basically make your car like a giant mirror but the good stuff isn't cheap.

HYBRIDCIVIC007

Where abouts might i be able to find the good stuff and how much? Any local auto place? I cant do any online purchases for the time being, if that helps with you thinking where i can get it local. Maybe if you had a few different types of things and prices that could help, so im not just looking for one thing.

So a mild cutting agent?
And swirl remover?
Info on those would be great.
Also, with the wet sanding swirls and dullness, after doing those two things and my favorites 2 coats of wax should do it?

RoadRage212

Hmmmm...you know to think of it 3M has started marketing this white compound at Wal Mart. I personally haven't used it but a friend of mine has. Its a white compound that's about $15 and you can buff with it. It's extremely thick but works incredibly well from what I'm told. See if you can find it. Let me know if you do.