SlammedEG6

ok so me and my wife are going to be doing some body work on my crx in the near future. im going to be doing some rust repair and dent removal and doing some body filler ect. i have a few questions. im going to be using a single stage paint. why.well money..i dont want a ton of primer spots on my car..one color is better then a bunch of spots..i wanna see way did it our our selves..and i want to bond with my wife or cars..trying to get her into them. i do have a few question tho. do i need to primer the whole car or can i just scuff the paint with like 320grit. also. what kind of primer should i use. im going to be using omni paint so should i use omni primer. also if there r places with surface rust and i sand to metal should i lay body filler over the metal.or can i just primer over it. i thought u used self etching primer over metal. but i dont think u need to use the over the whole car sense its not all metal. ..like say i sand some rust off to metal. and i dont need to use body filer..do i use like self etching primer. and then use reg primer over that.im not sure how the process works.. just need some things cleared up for me and pointers are always appreciated it..thanks guys

mfef4dr

good luck

eg_wookie

i just painted my car myself and ill just give you some pointers on the stuff i screwed up on or stuff i think that helped me, i would use the same brand primer and paint if possible, usually make sure everything will adhere properly. The other is make sure you sand the bondo down as smooth as possible cause some of the stuff i thought i sanded down as much as possible showed after painting the car, and sanding the rust down is really your call depends how smooth the metal is really, and make sure you primer the whole car, depending on your paint some people say you dont, but it will make everything look so much more even in the long run plus you wont have darker/lighter spots

fullyboostin

As far as paint and primer go if you can stick to the same brand if not just be careful cause some paints wont adhere to some primers correctly if the primer is still wet it needs a little time to flash first. As far as body work goes it is important to etch prime any spots that are bare metal then I would just spot prime them and block them out. Being that it is an old car I would personally sand and reprime the whole thing. Its not alot of work and can save you a huge headache in the end. Also when using types of body filler its important to make sure that you have a good body filler then make sure you prime and block out spots and check for pin holes before you actually paint it. I usually use like some sort of bondo then block it out then go over it with say Evercoat or Kombi putty to fill little pin holes.

yoshi-ua

good luck

Eyger

STOP!!!!

If you haven't bought anything yet, DON'T!!!!

seriously, i made this mistake and don't want anyone else to make it.

DO NOT buy Single stage paint if this is your first paint job!!!

It's harder to shoot and get a nice smooth finish. Reason being, you have to lay it on just right, and evenly to get it smooth.

With something like base coat/clear coat, it's more forgiving, in this fashion:
-If you shoot your basecoat too lightly, and it's kinda rough, it's ok, because you can lay on the clear, and then sand it and buff it. (Which is also pretty easy too.)

-If you shoot the base coat and you get a run or sag in it, it's ok, you can stop, let it dry, and sand it, then continue. Same with the clearcoat, if you get a run or a sag, finish the rest of the car, let it dry, sand and buff.

It's not that much more expensive.

I wish that I did 2 stage paint as my first paint job, just thought I would pass on the advice.

fullyboostin

As far as single stage vs base coat/ clear coat goes its all preference. Single stage can be easy to spray just depends upon color choice. Single stage metallics can be tricky but solid color single stage is easy. Although like stated above clear coat is pretty easy to spray and forgiving. Cost is more and if you want a good clear ALOT more. If you want I can give you some companies that make great base and clears that are made by companies like Sikkens PPG etc that have a different name and about half the price.

KuEy

yes, single stage is easier if you choose a solid color. and you dont need to prime the whole car if you do single stage. but make sure you apply enough coats tho. and i would put a thick coat of prime over the bare metal and sand it down with light sand paper so that bare metal isn't showing.

SlammedEG6

me and my wife r doing this and its kind of a bonding experience over cars..i love cars..she loves art/paints/tattoing/ect.. its going to be a great experience and i cant wait to to start. my dad has a 25gal air compressor that i hope is ok to u..im going to go to harbor freight and get a decent paint gun..probly this one sense it is hvlp http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43760 and ive done a little body work but not much..ive been searching my *** off for the past 3 days.watching videos.reading.trying to gain as much knowledge as possible..youtube has some great videos to learn from. also im going to go into sherwin williams tomorrow and see how much a single stage paint is going to be. like i said i wanna keep it as simple as possible and keep the price down as much as possible cuz more then likely it wont turn out super great which is fine cuz i am learning. my main goal is just to paint it so that i dont have a ton of primer spots all over my car...cant for get the oil and water separator too..also the color that i will be doing is white..my car is already white which i love white so im keeping it white..

SlammedEG6

i think i might try this setup..what do u think?
http://www.paintforcars.com/kits_arcticwhite.html

Eyger

^To the guys a couple up, yes I forgot to mention that, if it's a solid color. It is easier. I for one chose a red pearl single stage for the fist thing I shot....ya um wish I didn't.

fullyboostin

Yeah I could see where you could have problems with a pearl single stage they are a little tricky. As far as the harbor freight gun, I would try to borrow or maybe hit up a pawn shop and find a little nicer gun cause i will tell you it will make a huge difference.

precisionsc54

Listen If you have never done body work before you are in for a learning experience. And just rememeber you get what you pay for. Pay more now and have a good looking final product for years to come. Cheap out now and it will look like **** for years to come. Dont use a harbor freight gun unless your shooting primer. Im serious there junk and nothing more than a throw away gun. Buy an astro for like a $100 or so and that will be a nice starter gun. Shoot your base with a 1.3mm tip and your clear with a 1.4 Most primers will be shot with a 1.7 tip. Ok to start you off on the areas that have surface rust I would suggest making sure all the rust is removed and sand the paint back at least 6 inches with a DA. Next shoot the metal with some self etching primer a few coats will suffice. Do all your body work dents, dings etc. Hit the entire car with some 320 making sure there is zero shine left. Then spray the entire car with a good coat of 2k primer. When its dry guide coat the car with some black rattle can spray paint. Just a misting. When thats dry block the car with a rubber block and 220git paper, making sure to sand at 45degree angles from left to right, and then switching directions. Any black paint left when you are done will be your low spots and depending on the severity you need to either use glazing putty or filler. When everything is filled and resanded you must repeat the primering and blocking again. Once you have no black left you are ready for a final sand and paint. I suggest using BC/CC Single stage sucks and went out with the dinosaurs.

93monsterbubble

single stage is cheap, but its not as good as base/clear, both shine and durability suck compared to base/clear. thats why nobody sprays it anymore
and i had a harbor freight gun for primer acouple years ago, i used it once and hated it, threw it out and bought a sata primer gun

KuEy

i would recommend a gravity feed gun over what you were planning. it is a lot easier to spray and work with. but if you just want to test it out, it'll be okay to use that gun.

precisionsc54

the harbor freight ones I use are gravity feed.

delsollover95

good luck hope it turns out like you guys want it

fullyboostin

Do they still use guns that arent gravity feed on anything?? I would spend some money on a paint gun like I said before. I know you can find a good used Sata for around 200 if you cant buy one try and borrow one trust me it makes a huge difference. I have two Satas an older 95 thats an amazing gun and a 2000 that I like for clear. If you can get your hands on a 3000 they are badass guns. Iwata also makes a good cheaper gun.

KuEy

some older painters still do. but most of the guys these days i knwo do use majority sata. and it does work wonders for clear. then again, it all depends on how you clean your gun after each spray that will make teh gun long lasting.