How hard of fix?
#4
Re: (boostedjdmdc2)
In the meantime, take the screw out of the front edge of the bumper(under the fuel door), and see if the bumper will fit back over the plastic retainer on the side, you may need to smack the bumper a couple times to get it to pop back in, then reinstall your screw.
Take rubbing compound to the gouge to remove some of the discoloration.
Post pics after you've tried those 2 things.
Take rubbing compound to the gouge to remove some of the discoloration.
Post pics after you've tried those 2 things.
#6
Re: (boostedjdmdc2)
sand everything around that area with some 220 wet and then get some type of body filler and get that area smooth. paint that section of body and your good to go!
#7
Re: (VTEC_PRODUCTION)
You were right about one thing.....your signature . Don't give advice if you have no idea what you're talking about. I don't tell my machinist how to do an align hone for a reason.
To the op: If your bumper is still hanging out, most likely the quarter panel is crushed in on the bottom. Take off your bumper and inspect for cracked paint on the quarter panel. You can try pushing out the damage from the inside once you have removed the interior panel inside your trunk.
To the op: If your bumper is still hanging out, most likely the quarter panel is crushed in on the bottom. Take off your bumper and inspect for cracked paint on the quarter panel. You can try pushing out the damage from the inside once you have removed the interior panel inside your trunk.
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#8
Re: (sc4dr)
That will be difficult to fix for anyone who hasn't worked in the auto body trade before when it come to fixing complex dents or scrapes in a spot like that. A scrape which is deep like that is right to the metal or nearly there, if you can't fix it all right away, touch that up asap or rust will start quicker than you would think, and that only adds to the problem. I can't really see in the pic, but I'm thinking that kind of scrape would leave a small indentation in the panel for sure, either way a very large section of that area of the quarter will need to be sanded down to fix this, it'll show the extent of the dent and how much body fill will be needed and where. You'll be sanding from the top of the wheel arch back to the tailight half way up the quarter in order to shoot primer over that spot, and then shoot the paint over it to blend the spot in with the rest of the car. Might as well get a fuel door to replace that dented one while you're at it, you'll need to take it off in order to do the work easier anyway. You could try to take that dent out, but it's such an odd little part to try to work with, results can vary. A shop would just replace it, the labour time that would be spent trying to fix it could match the price of a new one easily.
What happened to the car anyway? Knowing that goes a long way in when it comes to making an estimate or just knowing what will need to be done. That bumper looks like it has been pushed in from the back, and the bottom edge of the quarter along where that scrape is seems wavy like it has some body fill that was poorly layered on. Has the car had previous work done?
Anyway, you can attempt this yourself to save some money if you're not worried about the results. Otherwise talk to some friends and find a buddy who's got some experience with this type of work and access to the tools to take care of it, sometimes a generous person will help you out just for the hell of having a weekend project and all you end up paying is the supplies. Then of course there always a good body shop, get estimates and opinions from others on where to go. I know sometimes that can be costly, but if you have a lot into the car and really like it... just as long as it doesn't cost more than what's it's worth. As much as I hate to say it, sometimes it's better to sell a car and take the money that would have been spent fixing it to buy something better, I know how that works the quarters on my hatch are rusting bad, and the rest of the car is rough, no need to spend 4000$ on a car only worth half as much, I'll just put it back to stock and pick up a rust free car to put my parts on and keep on going ahead with the project.
What happened to the car anyway? Knowing that goes a long way in when it comes to making an estimate or just knowing what will need to be done. That bumper looks like it has been pushed in from the back, and the bottom edge of the quarter along where that scrape is seems wavy like it has some body fill that was poorly layered on. Has the car had previous work done?
Anyway, you can attempt this yourself to save some money if you're not worried about the results. Otherwise talk to some friends and find a buddy who's got some experience with this type of work and access to the tools to take care of it, sometimes a generous person will help you out just for the hell of having a weekend project and all you end up paying is the supplies. Then of course there always a good body shop, get estimates and opinions from others on where to go. I know sometimes that can be costly, but if you have a lot into the car and really like it... just as long as it doesn't cost more than what's it's worth. As much as I hate to say it, sometimes it's better to sell a car and take the money that would have been spent fixing it to buy something better, I know how that works the quarters on my hatch are rusting bad, and the rest of the car is rough, no need to spend 4000$ on a car only worth half as much, I'll just put it back to stock and pick up a rust free car to put my parts on and keep on going ahead with the project.
#10
Re: (sc4dr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sc4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You were right about one thing.....your signature . Don't give advice if you have no idea what you're talking about. I don't tell my machinist how to do an align hone for a reason.
To the op: If your bumper is still hanging out, most likely the quarter panel is crushed in on the bottom. Take off your bumper and inspect for cracked paint on the quarter panel. You can try pushing out the damage from the inside once you have removed the interior panel inside your trunk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHA please, sounds like you dont know what your talking about here. just stick to what you know ok? align hone? wtf is that bullshit?!?! if he says its not dented in then its not dented in. all im doing is giving him the answer to his question. im not sitting here saying oh maybe you should do this or maybe this is the problem, maybe he needs a car wash and maybe touch up this paint chip. expletive NO! just answer the damn question and keep your stupid *** comments to yourself. if you dont like my answer then fine i dont give a **** give your answer and see if the guy likes it but stay the hell away from what i have to say when you dont know what the hell your talking about. I think i think i think...im not sure though....you think so?...jesus christ...thats your answer, i think you can take out the panel...i think that quarter must be dented because that bumper is misaligned...i think i think...maybe he said it was like that before that dent huh?!?!?! maybe it was from a rear ending?!?!?! maybe integra bumpers have always been a little off...common man, dont be so stupid...
To the op: If your bumper is still hanging out, most likely the quarter panel is crushed in on the bottom. Take off your bumper and inspect for cracked paint on the quarter panel. You can try pushing out the damage from the inside once you have removed the interior panel inside your trunk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHA please, sounds like you dont know what your talking about here. just stick to what you know ok? align hone? wtf is that bullshit?!?! if he says its not dented in then its not dented in. all im doing is giving him the answer to his question. im not sitting here saying oh maybe you should do this or maybe this is the problem, maybe he needs a car wash and maybe touch up this paint chip. expletive NO! just answer the damn question and keep your stupid *** comments to yourself. if you dont like my answer then fine i dont give a **** give your answer and see if the guy likes it but stay the hell away from what i have to say when you dont know what the hell your talking about. I think i think i think...im not sure though....you think so?...jesus christ...thats your answer, i think you can take out the panel...i think that quarter must be dented because that bumper is misaligned...i think i think...maybe he said it was like that before that dent huh?!?!?! maybe it was from a rear ending?!?!?! maybe integra bumpers have always been a little off...common man, dont be so stupid...
#11
Re: (VTEC_PRODUCTION)
Listen Dude, you're the one who told him to wet sand before you lay out the filler. So basically he would end up with a wavy quarter panel that was still obviously sucked in where it meets the bumper.
I'm on this forum to give my PROFESSIONAL opinion, not have diarrhea of the mouth. I'm giving him real world suggestions on what I can see from the pictures.
I busted on you on your other post because you asked what grit paper to use to wet sand, and now your giving advice on the complete repair. I do this for a living, and have alot of customers, so I'd like to think I know what I'm talking about. So please, please don't give body work advice anymore.
I'm on this forum to give my PROFESSIONAL opinion, not have diarrhea of the mouth. I'm giving him real world suggestions on what I can see from the pictures.
I busted on you on your other post because you asked what grit paper to use to wet sand, and now your giving advice on the complete repair. I do this for a living, and have alot of customers, so I'd like to think I know what I'm talking about. So please, please don't give body work advice anymore.
#13
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Re: (VTEC_PRODUCTION)
vtec production you sound like a little girl man.
waaaa waaaa waaaa I cant believe you still call people dude how unprofessional. do you have a limp wrist or something. god damn.
waaaa waaaa waaaa I cant believe you still call people dude how unprofessional. do you have a limp wrist or something. god damn.
#14
Re: (boostedjdmdc2)
I agree here with j-mark..... The bodywork isn't all that hard but to get it smooth like most people want takes a little skill. Then, once it is fixed you have the problem of painting a quarter panel. Do you have a any painting experience? The silver metalic color shown in the pics is not easy to match or spray even for a pro. Most body shops would blend the silver color over to the bumper and trunk deck to assure color match. The cost for sand-paper/body filler/ paint/ clearcoat/primer/block/tape etc would be around $120. I am all for "do-it-yourself" ideas but this ain't one of them my friend. The rear bumper problem is a common one. You have b een tapped from behind and the bumper has been pushed in towards the tail-light (look below the rear tail-light and compare it to the other side) thus pushing out the side making it bulge or curve out. To fix that you have to take off the bumper and find out which bracket or fastener is damaged. Fix the damaged bracketr and/or clip and you fix the bulge. The 2 guys fighting back and forth on this tread need to get a life! Your comments help no-one and show your lack of knowledge. Good luck and I hope you get it fixed soon. I know how damage can drive you crazy everytime you see it...
#15
Re: (IP RACING)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IP RACING »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vtec production you sound like a little girl man.
waaaa waaaa waaaa I cant believe you still call people dude how unprofessional. do you have a limp wrist or something. god damn.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahahahahaha roffl. Damn dude, thats funny
It's funny how some people get when there behind a keyboard.
btw, hows the dc2 coming OP?
waaaa waaaa waaaa I cant believe you still call people dude how unprofessional. do you have a limp wrist or something. god damn.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahahahahaha roffl. Damn dude, thats funny
It's funny how some people get when there behind a keyboard.
btw, hows the dc2 coming OP?
#16
Re: (VTEC_PRODUCTION)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_PRODUCTION »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im surprised you have lots of customers and still call people dude...how professional...please do me a favor and just not live on planet earth anymore</TD></TR></TABLE>
My boss calls everyone dude, broman. He also says **** like, "make it rain" and he listens to eminem in the shop, I should tell him if he stops doing that our business will get better. Seriously get a ******* clue, why wetsand with 220 when you can feather the scratches with 180 or 80 depending on the severity of the denting, if there is any. 180 if you can go straight to finish putty or 80 if you actually have to lay some mud on there.
To the OP, if you actually try doing a little bondo work, the most important thing I feel is to check your edges, you may feel waves in the bondo but if you still have edges you could just be piling more bondo on and giving yourself a major headache. If you have to use black spray paint as a guide coat to see high and low spots, and the hard sanding block is your best friend in a situation like this.
Its hard for me to give you a straightforward answer because I cant see or feel this, I am just going by pictures, but best of luck with the work, let us know how it goes
My boss calls everyone dude, broman. He also says **** like, "make it rain" and he listens to eminem in the shop, I should tell him if he stops doing that our business will get better. Seriously get a ******* clue, why wetsand with 220 when you can feather the scratches with 180 or 80 depending on the severity of the denting, if there is any. 180 if you can go straight to finish putty or 80 if you actually have to lay some mud on there.
To the OP, if you actually try doing a little bondo work, the most important thing I feel is to check your edges, you may feel waves in the bondo but if you still have edges you could just be piling more bondo on and giving yourself a major headache. If you have to use black spray paint as a guide coat to see high and low spots, and the hard sanding block is your best friend in a situation like this.
Its hard for me to give you a straightforward answer because I cant see or feel this, I am just going by pictures, but best of luck with the work, let us know how it goes
#18
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Re: (VTEC_PRODUCTION)
[QUOTE=VTEC_PRODUCTION]sand everything around that area with some 220 wet and then get some type of body filler and get that area smooth. paint that section of body and your good to go.
wet sand around the area and then apply body filler, i dont think so. you had better find out why the bumper does not fit first, repair the (dent) i guarantee is there by sanding with a da and some 80 grit first, adding some filler,feathering back the original paint, primering, then wet sanding the area with some 600, then sanding the rest of the quarter with 1000 grit, then painting and clear.
wet sand around the area and then apply body filler, i dont think so. you had better find out why the bumper does not fit first, repair the (dent) i guarantee is there by sanding with a da and some 80 grit first, adding some filler,feathering back the original paint, primering, then wet sanding the area with some 600, then sanding the rest of the quarter with 1000 grit, then painting and clear.
#19
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sorry for no updates, ive been trying to pick up a ef to practice some body work b4 messing with my dc. but after many hours of research i think i could handle it.
so pretty much id start with sanding that spot down, adding filler, smoothing it, wet sanding, the finish sanding with a 1000 or higher grit?
so pretty much id start with sanding that spot down, adding filler, smoothing it, wet sanding, the finish sanding with a 1000 or higher grit?
#20
Re: (boostedjdmdc2)
No, thats wrong. You dont wet sand filler. If its just a deep scratch with a slight dent, sand down the area with 120-180 using a DA. Feather out the paint an inch past any metal damage, apply light weight filler so it just covers the paint edge, and let dry for about 15-30 mins. Use a hard block with 120-180 to sand down the filler. Hold the block flat, and sand the whole area using a cross motion until you just see the paint feather edge poking through the filler. then your ready for the refinishing part.
Sand the area with 320-400 using a DA, then clean and prime, after that I would let an experienced painter take over
Sand the area with 320-400 using a DA, then clean and prime, after that I would let an experienced painter take over
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