alltech_hybrid

you wire tuck guys that shaved and painted your bay... did you wet sand and buff the bay after paint? Hard to get a buffer in some spots..
Just looking for tips on bay painting..
and i already know where the other thread but we need one here in the paint forum

WihaSi

I personally wouldn't try to buff it, unless of course you're trying to make it a show car. Then again I've never painted a full engine bay so...

alltech_hybrid

not a daily driver.. got my mr2 for that

WihaSi

If it's not going to be a "show car" I wouldn't worry about it. Base it then hit it with some jamb clear, or regular clear for a nice gloss

alltech_hybrid

what exactly is "jamb clear"?

swappedcx

Of course your not going to get a buffer in there . Thats what your arms are for, wet sand it with at least 1500 grit and get some compound on a rag and go to town. Trust me it really dosent take long, if you step your grits and go up higher even less time rubbing.

alltech_hybrid

hmmm so by hand will produce the same results? I thought you needed a buffer for compound..
Never used compound with a rag.. what kinda rag do you recommend?

WihaSi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alltech_hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what exactly is "jamb clear"?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Jamb clear is a ready to spray clear, not as glossy as a regular clear. Used mainly for door jambs and underhood. You just pour it in your gun and spray (at least that's how DuPont is).

alltech_hybrid

oh ok thanks.. so no mixing required
does it have any avantages over regular clear?

WihaSi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alltech_hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ok thanks.. so no mixing required
does it have any avantages over regular clear?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only advantage is that it's ready to spray. If I were painting my engine bay, I would do it with a regular clear for the gloss. Jamb clear is basically to keep it looking factory, usually from factory you don't have good clear under the hood, it's pretty dull compared to the outside panels.

alltech_hybrid

i agree so im gonna use regular clear... so do you agree swappedcx? hand buffing compound? would this work on body panels as well?
thanks for all the tips

swappedcx

yes, at work I actually hand buff/polish more than using the buffer. After sanding with 1500 grit ( we actually hit it up quick with 3M's trizac 3000 then) you will be surprised how quick you can get a gloss back. I dont like to take a chance with the buffer of cutting a edge so I usually will wetsand a entire panel and use the buffer and stay 1 -2'' away from edges then hand buff the rest, followed up by some hand polish. Hand polishing yeilds the same result as long as you take the time. Where buffer will take a whole 2-3min on a hood, hand It might take me 5-10. On most new cars these days theres alot of turns and bends in the bumpers. I usually hand polish the bumpers, and some fenders...depends if I have alot of work to get done that day quick or not.

Edit: and I wouldnt use jamb clear. It does not give as glossy a finish, isnt as durable, and your not going to really get thickness you can with some clear sprayed from the gun. Engine bays are fun to clear because all the turns and sharp angles. When I spray the bay I would do 2 to 3 coats depending with the first coat a med wet coat (kinda dry but not really) then the rest full wet coats. I dont know about others, but its always easier to sand orange peel/ dry clear than a **** load of runs.

LS3MotorSports

nice

sh!tsWEAK!

iTrader: (1)

Swappedcx has some good tips! I too like to stay an inch or two away from the edges to avoid burning through since the edges and sharp body lines are prone to it. I also hit everything with 3M Trizac (3000 grit) before buffing.

alltech_hybrid

good info