xIllustriousx

iTrader: (1)

I'm currently working on an EM1 build with a buddy of mine who is a long time member of the forums. Just a quick question. On this EM1 Project we are replacing a lot of the interior with EK9 Components, most of which are black. The Si we are currently working on has the dark gray and light gray interior. So my problem is that everything isn't going to be uniform. So I'm trying to come up with a way to make it work and everything match. I have painted the interior of a vehicle before and it came out well, didn't last that long though. Didn't take nearly the precautions I'm considering in this project. My question is it plausible to paint an interior and it actually last? I went ahead and washed the pieces in question to remove any loose debris, I'm going to next sand it with a fine grit wet or dry like a 1500, finally before getting to any paint I bought some Adhesive Promoter. So compared to what I did before (just rip pieces out [It was a Ford Mustang no need for tears Honda Heads] put them on the ground and spray them with paint, this seems to be a good deal of precautions to actually make it work. Am I missing anything here? Can anyone help me with some do's and dont's of painting an interior. Alternately, if this just is not a good idea at all. The only solution I see (to make everything match) would be to wrap all of my pillars etc in some sort of upholstery. Any pointers/tips/advice, I'd appreciate. Thanks guys.

Hidenplanvew

There is SEMs paint and I would follow what they say.. I wouldnt sand anything as you might distroy the texture of the plastic. The adheasion promoter is good, there are also products that are a no sand product that will soften the surface so u dont damage anything.

xIllustriousx

iTrader: (1)

I appreciate you taking the time to chime in. I will check that out. Based on my understanding of a 1500 grit wet or dry sandpaper and how it actually looks and feels, I don't think it is coarse enough to actually destroy the material. It's actually (from the standpoint of the company I bought the Adhesion Promoter) a "necessary" step before applying the Adhesion Promoter. But I am going to be looking around and I'll check out those paints before I do anything. Thanks again for taking the time to post man I appreciate it.

Caddiman

iTrader: (2)

I have done a few interiors, with alot of trial and error....My best results were when I used a very fine sand paper and sanded it down enough to get rid of the shinyness, then use adhesive promotor, then spray. Never had issues with chipping when I used this method...Good luck

hondahien

sup bro..how you been?

xIllustriousx

iTrader: (1)

Caddiman I appreciate the tips buddy ... thanks for chiming in guys.

dc4teg95

I would like to know as well as I want to restore my integras black interior without buying all new pieces from the dealer

xIllustriousx

iTrader: (1)

From what I've gathered from information across the internet, and information given by the people who took the time to chime in, as long as you take the necessary precautions and do it RIGHT it will indeed work. By precautions I mean taking the pieces wash them with a mild detergent (Dawn dish soap or even an interior cleaner for cars) to remove all the loose dirt and debris from the pieces, then sanding them with a very fine sand paper (1500 Grit Wet or Dry). You are simply trying to remove the shiny top layer when doing this (it takes some work and patience with such a fine sand paper). Sand away the shiny top layer then from there you want to get an Adhesive Promoter. This is pretty much like a "primer" for the interior pieces, allows the paint something to actually stick to aside of just the surface. Then from there after you've applied a layer or two of the Promoter you can go ahead and lay your paint. There is alternatives to this if you don't want to do all this. There is paint made that simply "dies" the material in question. To my understanding you can do everything in an interior your vinyl etc. all the way up to even leather seats. I've read solid reviews about the stuff but decided I would rather paint everything the way I would like it to be done. Hope this helps, if you wanna know any more as far as brands of materials I would personally recommend etc. feel free to PM me and I will do everything in my power to help out.

HStuder

This is the same problem I'm having. My interior paint doesn't last, even when cleaning, using SEM Sand Free, and then SEM paint. My vinyl work turns out great. Hard plastics, the paint chips right off if anything remotely hard touches/scratches it. Is the 1500 grit sanding really going to be the key to making it work/last?

xIllustriousx

iTrader: (1)

Are you using anything to promote the adhesion of the paint? Is that what the SEM Sand Free is for? I've not used SEM products but I've heard fair things about them. I've finished a few pieces and I guess only time will tell, but they look and feel great, and I didn't end up destroying the actual texture of the panels etc. with the 1500 Grit.

I just did a brief read on the SEM Sand Free and my understanding of it is that you are only supposed to use that on the hard to sand areas. But it is supposed to act like an adhesive promoter. To say without doubt the sanding would make that much of a difference would be a hard statement to make. However, I did notice a dramatic difference in the feel of pieces I had sanded vs. pieces I didn't sand. It's almost as if there is a clear coat or something, that shiny top coat on the interior pieces.

If you are going to do it again, you aren't going to hurt anything by sanding it with a 1500 Wet or Dry. It won't by any means make the process harder or worse. So if you need to repaint it I would say just take all necessary precautions to make sure you end up with a surface that paint wants to adhere to and stay. Wash the pieces first, sand with the 1500 Wet or Dry until you come to a dull surface (it takes some patience as it's very fine sandpaper). Try a brand other than SEM for your Adhesion Promoter. Loctite, 3M, Bulldog, something of that nature (not cheap like $25 a can). Finally make sure you lay down a nice paint. Paint from a can (I don't know whether or not this is your approach) isn't going to last as long as paint sprayed from a gun with a lacquer.

HStuder

Yes you're correct, the SEM Sand Free is designed to be the adhesion promoter. I spoke with someone at my local autobody supply shop and they told me that it should be used on the hard plastic services and that sanding was not the best course of action. So that's what I did but apparently they may not know what they're talking about lol

From what I can gather now, it seems like I'm going to have a lot of rework to do. And since I don't feel like trying to remove all the paint I've sprayed on so far, I'll probably just head to the junk yard and pick up some new interior parts that I need, and do them properly with cleaning with Dawn soap, sanding, adhesion promoter, and then SEM black.

And yes, the SEM paint is out of a rattle can. That seems to be what pretty much everyone is doing and getting favorable results. The coats themselves are coming out great...they just don't stay on the intended hard plastic surface when anything touches them haha

strongisland

iTrader: (1)

i worked at an autobody supply store and sold SEM interior paints. and completely repainted my buddies 95 civic grey interior to SEMs "landau black"
the only thing that chipped was the steering wheel, which i had figured considering the constant use and abuse.

-Dont use dawn dish soap, as it leave a residue that will hinder adhesion.
(use Prep-sol by dupont or a generic, OR acetone/lacquer thinner(clean evaporationg)...wipe on with one rag, wipe off with a different clean rag)
-sand the peices using a red scotchbrite pad or a white one
-reclean using the prep-sol or solvent.
-DUST on the first coat of paint(should barely be a coating)
-followed by two wet coats (obvioulsy not enough to get runs)

DONE

HStuder

Ok I'll give that scotchbrite a try. I was using that SEM vinyl prep as a cleaner after the Dawn to help get rid of any residue. The guys at the supply store said that the Vinyl prep was better than the Plastic prep anyways. Another piece of advice that I'm now doubting lol

So just to confirm...acetone won't harm the interior hard plastics? I have lots of acetone. I use it for everything. So if I can use that, it'll make my life easier.

Also...no SEM "Sand Free" adhesion promoter just before the first dusting of paint?

We just headed into a cold snap now and my garage isn't heated...so we'll see how this goes...in APRIL once the temps rise lol