waywayej

thanks for taking a look at my thread. before I begin I don't need any negatory comments on how "theres already a thread" or "search for endless hours and don't get the exact answers you want for your questions". ive looked on the site for close to 4 hours before making this thread, and I also searched google but didn't come up with the info I desire. im simply looking for info build specific info to my car, and others very similar.

my current toy is a 1990 crx si with an rsx k20a2 swap my part list is as follows.

motor setup:k20as type s motor, hybrid racing fuel rail with fully adjustable pressure regulator and steel braided lines, walboro 255 fuel pump, no name short ram intake, rbc intake manifold, dc 4-2-1 header, cat delete, buddy club 3 in exhaust, kpro ecu, and aem wideband, hasport motor mounts(black bushings)k tuned radiator and upgraded fan.

suspension goodies: function form yellows, blox strut bars, adjustable upper and lower control arms, front traction/stabilizer bar, every bushing on the car have been upgraded to a polyurethene bushing, all wheel disk 5 lug conversion(either rsx or itr) weld racing 3 pc wheels, nitto competition compound track tires.

drive train: stock type s tranny, clutch masters stage 2 clutch, rsx 400hp axels, rsx shifter box with k tunes race spec cables and bushings, race bearings all the way around.

currently fully assembled and running and driving, has a few minor issues but after this winter it will be a nice sleeper v8 eater.

goals: this winter I plan on pulling the motor and doing some overhauling.id love to have 325 hp all motor RELIABLY. what I plan on doing is swaping out the pistons(I want something that's not gonna throw a notorious Honda hole in my block) bearings, oil pump, water pump, high out put altenator, upgraded timing chain, stage 2 cams and upgraded gears, run a nice valve train setup and possibly a port and polish. what im looking for are some good brands with links. im all about the most bang for your buck but don't mind spending the few extra bucks for a higher quality more reliable part. I need to know which parts tend to work better together and which ones to stay away from. also I need to know important info such as compression ratios, torque specs, which gaskest kit im gonna wana use, cam gear degrees and settings, how much fuel pressure im gonna wana run, etc. detailed info is much appreciated.

issues: the real current issue as far as drivabilty is unless I disconnect the battery before start up it goes into 4k limp mode. im not a ametuer tech. im a level 3 Chrysler tech at a 5 star dealership. obviously its a electrical component some where. I don't have the code reader cord for my kpro ecu so I just planned since I have the motor apart I plan on replacing every sensor. as far as I know that would be cam sensor, crank sensor, oil pressure sensor, vtec spool valve and sensor, my o2 wide band is already brand new, any thing else might be worth replacing? and usually as far as sensors I tend to stay with oem dealership parts, some aftermarket ones done like to render to well. anyone got any insight on this paragraph?

all positive information will be much appreciated

happy tunings!

waywayej

chargeR

Don't waste your money changing all the sensors.

How are you starting it with the battery disconnected?

Without knowing the code, I'd guess it could just be the low ECU voltage code. Common problem with bad grounds, charge harnesses or batteries in odd places. See here for more info: Tech - K20A Engine Swap Grounds

waywayej

heres what it is doing. pre start battery disconnected. hook up battery, starts up, runs fine, no abnormalities. shut it off. start it up 4k limp mode. disconnect battery, start it up, runs fine. ill take your advice and ill check the electrical connections and makes sure I got tight solid grounds. thanks charger!

waywayej

i also read up on your link, the thing that stood out to me the most was "do not relocate your battery, there is plenty enough room underneath the hood" in my crx this is not the case, the battery is ran to the rear compartment, im using 4 gauge copper clad wire with solid connections. should i maybe try a zero gauge?

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

hard to diagnose with KPRO, but perhaps someone local might have a factory JDM ECU for you to try? just to see if same thing happens with that factory ECU. If no JDM perhaps a USDM with an immobilizer delete? or an AEM EMS?