Nikos

Hello again, most of you that do a lot of your own work know how frustrating it is to be taking pictures while working on motors... etc..

So this is my attempt to give you an idea how this was done... Ony a fool... I mean.. a real stupid person... would attempt to put a motor together without the shop manual... so

the purpose of this thread is more to show you what needs to be done.. and not to be used as reference...

So, I decided to put a k motor in my 92 DX that I had sitting for a while since I bought it for $450.. So I did remove the D series motor a long time ago... Rather than treating the D series with respect and so on.. I basically,,,, just took it out of the car and through it away.. It had 240K miles..

So, once the engine bay was clear, I removed the tranny bracket that holds the d/b series tranny and installed the hasport brackets/mounts.

I removed the dash and installed my hybrid racing pnp harness. I also removed all the a/c stuff from the car.

Then I started with a tsx k24a2 shortblock





next I installed flywheel and TQed it to spec



then came the clutch and pressure plate



Now I am almost ready to attach the tranny... Just need 3 things...

a tranny...



as you can see the hasport mount and karcepts.com bracket are attached to the tranny.. makes it easier to move around

2 dowel pins to secure the tranny with the block



and this ring that the manual actually kind of fails to mention... It does but it is not vey clear...

it needs to be pushed it to accept the main tranny shaft



It was pretty easy to install the tranny on the block since the block did not have the head yet on it, so it was easy to manuever..

here's how it looks attached



Next it was time for the head... But first we need to install the head gasket and dowel pins



Then we install the head on the block,,, and torque the head bolts according to the manual....

At this point... it is time to sleep so before I left, I wanted a mental image how it is going to look like...



note the 2006 Civic Si manifold that was cut to fit the k20a2 rsx type s head.. The tsx head is also a good head to use but I didn;t have a tsx head available in good shape.

So now... it is time to work on the timing chain and cover... so...

I remove the crank pulley



and install the cams gears, chain guides, tensioner... and at the same time set the motor at TDC while the motor is in time according to spec...



To do so... you have to align the cam gear marks



with the mark on the oil pump pulley that shows that the motor is in TDC...

It is pretty straight forward once you mess around with it because you cannot really miss a chain link...

Of course for this motor, I am using the tsx chain that is longer.

Once this was done, the tensioner is released to hold the chain in place



before installing the chain cover... I replace the oil seal



and the water gasket on that cover



then by using hondabond...



the chain cover gets installed.. then... the crank pulley is put back... and

since it needs to be torqued to 180 ft-lbs.... I use my moroso crank pulley holder...



Next... it is time to attach the crv bracket on the chain case..



followed by the hasport mount



next comes the alternator and starter



and then... it is time to drop da bitch in





on my own, it took 1-2 hours to get everything right and its place...

That is all for now... I just need to find some time to do the rest.... which is really cakewalk compared to the whole process that I did on my own...

ASk any questions if you have any...

Nikos

Oh yeah... I using type r cams on this motor... hoping for 230whp with hondata K pro etc...

HotWheelz

a couple things i noticed.

you used "AT" flywheel bolts, those are shorter than the standard ones, you might wanna use manual flywheel bolts because thy are longer by i think 1/4inch or more... "something i noticed"

and also, how do you tighten the altenator in that configuration from the belt from slipping?

Tippyman

looks good.

k24a4kid

the belt doesn't hit each other on the water pump?

Nikos

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k25a2kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the belt doesn't hit each other on the water pump?</TD></TR></TABLE>

good catch.. It wil not clear on stock parts.. I will replace the alternator pulley with an aftermarket AEM one.. and that will give it enough clearance...

k24a4kid

where did you get only the alternator one..i cant find it anywhere.. i was gonna buy the 3 peice set but i thought i'd wait cause i have the crank pully aready

Nikos

ok, here's the deal... When first AEM marketed the pulley kits for the K series.. they had 2... the ep3 one and the rsx one... The ep3 one, because the ep3 has electrical power steering, only had the alternator pulley... The rsx one.. has 2.. the alternator and the power steering wheel pullies..

If you look online you will find many dealers selling the EP3 kit from AEM... but AEM doesn;t make it or ever did...

So the choices are...

get the $150 AEM 2 pulley set, and basically junk the other pulley... or use the ep3 idler pulley with the tensioner...

The reason why I am thinking about not going with the ep3 idler pulley is because the tsx crank pulley is bigger than the rsx pulley and there is no belt in stock with 7 ribs that will fit... so I would either need to use a 6 rib belt , order a custom 7 rib belt... or swap the crank pulley for the smaller rsx one.... A few people run the 6 rib belt with no problems but I want my setup to be problem free... that is why I am using the stage 4 axles with their own hub... guarrantedd to last for a long *** time

k24a4kid

ahh i see.. thanks for the info.. i'll think i'll get the 2piece aem set from ebay like i was gonna

sockvtec

nice writeup

plain and simple

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

cant wait to see the results. you said that was a Z3 manifold or an A3 manifold?

Nikos

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cant wait to see the results. you said that was a Z3 manifold or an A3 manifold? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, 2006 Civic Si manifold.. same as the JDM Accord type R manifold

You have to fit a rsx type s manifold gasket.. on the Si manifold.. You make a line and you cut whatever is left

H25

just blew by the automatic tranny bolt statement i see.... I am also curious why you chose to use the shorter auto flywheel bolts. THats not a smart idea. I would definetly use 5 speed flywheel bolts and replace them asap. As previously mentioned they are much shorter and only ment for the thin flexplate that came on your motor to begin with.

Nikos

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MHRacing-310 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just blew by the automatic tranny bolt statement i see.... I am also curious why you chose to use the shorter auto flywheel bolts. THats not a smart idea. I would definetly use 5 speed flywheel bolts and replace them asap. As previously mentioned they are much shorter and only ment for the thin flexplate that came on your motor to begin with. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That is the secret in making 390whp all motor on 87 pump gas

Seriously though, I will change them for sure... once I drive the car around a little bit.

H25

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That is the secret in making 390whp all motor on 87 pump gas

Seriously though, I will change them for sure... once I drive the car around a little bit. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats some secret.. You got anymore?? Good luck with it!

Nikos

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MHRacing-310 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats some secret.. You got anymore?? Good luck with it! </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks! Everyone is always trying to remove mass from the flywheel.. Noone ever thought about shortening the bolts LMAO

H25

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks! Everyone is always trying to remove mass from the flywheel.. Noone ever thought about shortening the bolts LMAO</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL Yea lets hope that doesnt become a trend..

THCk20eg

lol ****** dude. looks great man keep it up.

skunked

Looks good.

Short Fywheel Bolts + 9K RPMS = Scary

Nikos

Ok ok.. I am going to change the flywheel bolts and make a new thread

H25

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok ok.. I am going to change the flywheel bolts and make a new thread </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank You.

C M S

Droool , looks great

THCk20eg

why not just keep this one, and make a new one called, how to lighten a flywheel part 1.

97spooncivic

and once again he manages a great writeup

JeffBro

Damn this setup would kill in a hatch. nice writeup too .

ernald711

whoa {joey lawrence voice}