ESP-net

Thought I would share some light on my experience with the FRM H22/H23 cylinders. As we all know the H22/H23 91-01 H series blocks have FRM cylinders. It requires a special boring and honing process with special tooling. Which for some people it requires sending the block out of state.

If you spun a bearing you will need to have the crank checked out and very least a new rod as well as piston. I just usually search the market for a STD crank. I would also get a few sets of H22 pistons with rods and choose by Mic'ing each piston to each cylinder which one would be the best for it or step up and get some new JDM Type S pistons.

Below is more for the 100k mile engine in need of refreshing or possibile throwin in some JDM H22A pistons or JDM Type S pistons or doing a H23 Vtec on a existing running engine...


Budget Rebuild:

On the few engines that I put together I skipped the boring and honing process just because of how touchy the FRM cylinders are. Both engine cylinders passed the finger nail trick.

- If you see any scoring or scratches in the cylinder run your finger nail on them if you can't pick it up or barely can then the block should be okay.
- Next Mic out the cylinders make sure the wear is within specs. Inspect your old Rods and Pistons.
- Make sure the ringlands on the pistons are not cracked or show signs of wear.
- Make sure the skirts wear look normal to each piston
- Keep track each Piston and Rod for each cylinder
- Mic the pistons for each cylinder and make sure everything is within specs
- If they check out okay for each cylinder then you should be able to put them back in.
- Use NEW OEM Honda rings
- I have ran ACL bearings without any issues
- A good idea would be to replace the rod bolts with ARP 9mm GSR rod bolts and get the rods re sized...

Both engines that I have done haven't eaten a drop of oil after 15k miles...and one is putting out over 200 whp...

hybrid2007

sorry to bring up an old post but i'm building my h22 on a budget as we speak and this is pretty much exactly what i plan to do.

since the bores will not be honed, are the rings going to seat as well as they should?

ESP-net

In my thoughts yes should seat better then before with NEW Honda OEM Rings...the correct piston for each cylinder is crucial as well...granted there is a break in period but it's not as much as a complete new set up 500-1000 miles. Obviously like in most builds longer you hold out on pushing the engine the longer the engine will last to give the rings plenty of time.

Upon start up there is a idle process with the NEW OEM Honda rings for the first 5 minutes of start up slowly throttle from idle to about 3k RPM hold for about 30 seconds then release back down to idle keep doing this for about 5-10 minutes. This process I believe helps seat the OEM Honda rings.

hybrid2007

I'm planning on getting a set of new type s pistons but they will all be identical wont they? so if my bores have worn unevenly i'm gonna need to get it resleeved?

I'm completely confused about the break in procedure 2 as some people are saying baby it for 1000 or so miles while others say break it in on the dyno then drive it like you stole it.

I've done alot of researching on this but i'm still none the wiser.

Nice quide btw, exactly what i've been looking
for

ESP-net

Yes type s pistons should be fine...I dont believe they come in a A or B piston just a STD 87mm...just Mic them out when you get them and make sure the correct amount of gap spec is suitable for that piston and your cylinder combo...

750 miles should be fine with a decent ecu...I usually run the p13 prelude ECU upon start up...get some miles on it...then take it to dyno and switch to my p28 Crome ecu and get it tuned...

Dump the oil at 250 miles and 500 miles and inspect it...check the oil accuracy regularly making sure it's not eating anything...

hybrid2007

cheers dude