H2B / F2B FAQ
07-21-2007, 01:12 PM
#51
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Thread Starter
Re: (BIG T)
you will need to machine the crank pulley but just remove the balance shaft entirely and get the washer from mcmaster-carr
08-13-2007, 03:26 PM
#52
Go Tigers!
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Re: (randomae)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by randomae »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well some people have like 12 second h2bs. i guess my question is with the h22 how much porting is safe? essentially, why is this considered the wave of the future as opposed to the k swap, all prices aside.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how much porting? what are you talking about?
The reason this is considered to be the future in opposition to the K swap IS that it's so much cheaper and very fast cars can be made with this combination.
Kseries will always dominate H series in power and speed contests, but H is so much cheaper!
how much porting? what are you talking about?
The reason this is considered to be the future in opposition to the K swap IS that it's so much cheaper and very fast cars can be made with this combination.
Kseries will always dominate H series in power and speed contests, but H is so much cheaper!
08-19-2007, 02:19 PM
#53
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Re: (ek forever guy)
Went down to my local Napa today, and after a few minutes of searching I found a suitable upper radiator hose for my H2B in my Del Sol.
The Napa part number is 8325, and it was about $15.
Here's what it looks like right from the store:
You can see my mockup wire next to it in the photo above. I determined where to cut it and then sliced it with a razorblade, resulting in this:
Here you can see it just held in the bay:
And here's the final result:
Fitment is perfect once it's cut. And it's way better then the ghetto crap that I had in my car before.
The Napa part number is 8325, and it was about $15.
Here's what it looks like right from the store:
You can see my mockup wire next to it in the photo above. I determined where to cut it and then sliced it with a razorblade, resulting in this:
Here you can see it just held in the bay:
And here's the final result:
Fitment is perfect once it's cut. And it's way better then the ghetto crap that I had in my car before.
08-27-2007, 06:28 PM
#56
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Re: (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I thought it made sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>
130%
I thought it made sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>
130%
09-01-2007, 10:02 PM
#57
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Re: (sauceja)
hey doods, finally decided to make a thread check it out https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2086488
09-19-2007, 02:55 PM
#59
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Re: (sauceja)
how about this instead of being lazy and asking someone to think for you,why don't you actually try looking for your answer.
Modified by HondaCivicSiR1 at 8:24 PM 9/19/2007
Modified by HondaCivicSiR1 at 10:28 PM 9/19/2007
Modified by HondaCivicSiR1 at 8:24 PM 9/19/2007
Modified by HondaCivicSiR1 at 10:28 PM 9/19/2007
09-27-2007, 12:38 PM
#61
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Re: (Bense)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the spacer is too close to the center to accurately set ignition timing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just curious on how you figured that? a timming light doesn't care how close the markings are to the center of rotation....
just curious on how you figured that? a timming light doesn't care how close the markings are to the center of rotation....
09-27-2007, 01:04 PM
#65
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Re: (88ED8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88ED8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
just curious on how you figured that? a timming light doesn't care how close the markings are to the center of rotation....</TD></TR></TABLE>
True. Ever pull timing off the cam gears?
Our spacer only marks TDC, no 16 Degree mark. You need to use a timing light with advance/retard to set ignition.
The H-series design of looking through that little window little peak has always been difficult.
We do like Skunk does... just set it to TDC and make three marks. One on the crank pulley, another close to the pulley on your block, and another line higher up, inline with the block mark to level your view. Scribe your marks and mark them with a Sharpie. When it wears away, just color the scribe again when you need to use it.
just curious on how you figured that? a timming light doesn't care how close the markings are to the center of rotation....</TD></TR></TABLE>
True. Ever pull timing off the cam gears?
Our spacer only marks TDC, no 16 Degree mark. You need to use a timing light with advance/retard to set ignition.
The H-series design of looking through that little window little peak has always been difficult.
We do like Skunk does... just set it to TDC and make three marks. One on the crank pulley, another close to the pulley on your block, and another line higher up, inline with the block mark to level your view. Scribe your marks and mark them with a Sharpie. When it wears away, just color the scribe again when you need to use it.
09-27-2007, 01:52 PM
#67
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Re: (88ED8)
Well that sucks!
If it's one of our spacers and the timing line is missing, send that sh*t back and we'll get you one that does.
I do take it upon myself personal, me (Seth), to assure certain features are correct per component. But I am only human.
If it's one of our spacers and the timing line is missing, send that sh*t back and we'll get you one that does.
I do take it upon myself personal, me (Seth), to assure certain features are correct per component. But I am only human.
09-27-2007, 04:56 PM
#68
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Re: (Bserious)
now thats some coustomer service
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bserious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">send that sh*t back.</TD></TR></TABLE>
but thats allot of work to take out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bserious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">send that sh*t back.</TD></TR></TABLE>
but thats allot of work to take out
09-27-2007, 06:18 PM
#69
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Re: (88ED8)
If you can live with it and mark your own line, where ever that may be, use it and wait until the next time you pull it apart. We'll replace any missing the line, whenever that it may be discovered.
This would be the first. I almost want yours just to freesbie through it (literally) at my machinist.
This would be the first. I almost want yours just to freesbie through it (literally) at my machinist.
09-27-2007, 06:41 PM
#71
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Re: (88ED8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88ED8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but thats allot of work to take out </TD></TR></TABLE>
With the amount of time and effort you have invested in your project already, I am sure it's nothing.
I pray that engine bay is gonna get painted. So when you pull the combo then pull the old switcheroo and its back together before you ever start rewiring and plumbing lines.
</TD></TR></TABLE>With the amount of time and effort you have invested in your project already, I am sure it's nothing.
I pray that engine bay is gonna get painted. So when you pull the combo then pull the old switcheroo and its back together before you ever start rewiring and plumbing lines.
10-10-2007, 05:02 PM
#72
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (702egsi)
Most are using a D-series alternator. Does the D crank pulley work??? HMMM
The back of the block still has to be ground.
Read this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1638988
The back of the block still has to be ground.
Read this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1638988
10-23-2007, 03:48 PM
#73
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Re: (HondaCivicSiR1)
never seen a D crank pulley used on the H/F crank. Some guys are using the narrower D series alternator pulley on the H series alternator though.
10-23-2007, 03:48 PM
#74
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Re: (HondaCivicSiR1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaCivicSiR1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">please can we get some more info on using a d series crank pulley?like does it have to be a after market one or can use a stock one?</TD></TR></TABLE>
all you have to do is bore the d series crank pulley "i did mine on cnc"
i used a H series alt. but with a d series alt. pulley.it tells everything i did with pics
you will just have to hunt for it.
all you have to do is bore the d series crank pulley "i did mine on cnc"
i used a H series alt. but with a d series alt. pulley.it tells everything i did with pics
you will just have to hunt for it.
10-23-2007, 03:53 PM
#75
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Re: (1700anddroping)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1700anddroping »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
all you have to do is bore the d series crank pulley "i did mine on cnc"
i used a H series alt. but with a d series alt. pulley.it tells everything i did with pics
you will just have to hunt for it. </TD></TR></TABLE>ok i did read what you posted and the question i would really like to know is does it have to be a after market pulley or would a oem work?
all you have to do is bore the d series crank pulley "i did mine on cnc"
i used a H series alt. but with a d series alt. pulley.it tells everything i did with pics
you will just have to hunt for it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>ok i did read what you posted and the question i would really like to know is does it have to be a after market pulley or would a oem work?