NeedmoPowr

I know there is a ton of threads about this but I've tried all the info on them and still nothing,car is a 90 accord with JDM h22a swap that I just got finished.
Cold or warm it has a 2k idle and every once in a while it will bounce/ surge for a second.

So far I cleaned the tb and iacv, scrwed down the fitv valve, sprayed starting fluid everywhere and visually checked for vacume leaks,coolant system is bled, throttle cable is properly adjusted.
Its giving off cel code 6,engine temp circuit? Dnt know what that means

If I have the egr plugged into a nipple on the Mani, I believe that's where it should be hooked up? The car will drop below 2k get really rough choppy then die and will also throw the code for egr, when its hooked up to nothing it goes rite back to a smooth 2k and doesn't throw the code for it?

Any ideas would be appreciated, I think my problem lie with the egr it just has me confused

TracerAcer2.2L

Sounds like you've done good research and done just about all the trouble shooting you can concerning it. It does sound like the EGR. Maybe research egr problems specifically.

NeedmoPowr

Well with the egr not plugged in it idles high, and I know people who just block/delete it which is basically the same as it being unplugged and they don't have that problem so not sure what else to do

Also put on a 10lb flywheel that doesn't have timing marks so how do I time the motor properly?

TracerAcer2.2L

Pretty sure you can time from the crank pulley as well. At least, I have a UR pulley and it has timing marks. Can't remember if my stock pulley had them but it should.

I have a skunk manifold and so deleted egr and iacv. I just ordered a chipped ecu from Rywire. I don't imagine a stock ecu running right without something important like an egr, but I could be wrong.

NeedmoPowr

I'm gonna block the egr tomorrow and see if that lowers the idle, if it does I was gonna get a p28 anyways so I'll have the egr cel taken off

NeedmoPowr

Alright well today I got a f22 water neck so cel 6 is gone, I made a block off plate for the egr and it seemed to help.
So it idles lower now at like 1500,no check engine lights. If I take it for a drive after a couple miles the cel will come on and the idle will raise back up to 2k and surge. When I get back and try to read the code it shows me nothing cause the cel dissapears after I turn the car off? Start it back up and it goes back to a lower 1500 idle and no surging and no cel.
Also this is realllly weird but I realized the surging Idle pretty much only happens when I either turn my headlights on or my heater to high?wtf? New alternator n belt and my charge light doesnt come on nor does the car never want to start.

Why does the idle surge when a load is put on the charging system and why is my idle still high?? please help this car is driving me crazy

HiProfile

Learn what the code actually means before tossing parts on there:

Tech Article - OBD-1 ECU Codes - Evans Tuning

Then understand what parts on the motor are what. That water neck "sensor" you deleted was actually a secondary thermal switch. The actual coolant sensor is on the side of the cylinder head (2 wire connector, usually white). More than likely you have an intermittent open/shorted connection somewhere between the ECT sensor and ECU, and when it's shorted/open the ECU thinks the engine is -60F or 360F or something at the edge of the sensor's range so it increases idle.

If you want to test if it's the IACV adding air, take off the air filter and plug the IACV hole. Try it once when it idles fine and it should drop to 400-700 rpm. If you do that same at the 2k idle and it drops to the same RPM, it's the ECU intentionally telling the engine to idle high - and there is something like a sensor telling the ECU wrong info to cause that response. If it won't drop below 1k, then there is an intermittent air leak.

NeedmoPowr

The h22 water neck that was on it has no thermal/fan switch sensor so it was giving code 6 for a incomplete circuit, I put the f22 neck on which has it and fixed that problem, I didnt delete anything I added it.
I'll go out and try the thing with the iacv u mentioned and get back to you with what it does,thanks!

HiProfile

Sorry, I thought you were referring to the outlet that bolts to the exhaust side of the head. I don't recall seeing any obd1/obd2 motors w/o the switch on the t-stat housing.

Good luck with the idle, 89% of the time it has to do with some sort of air leak & the other 10% is another problem causing the ECU to think it needs to raise the idle via IACV. The remaining 1% is caused by bigfoot or "nessy"...

NeedmoPowr

So the idle is good now right below 1k, but at night with headlights on and sometimes in the day for no reason the idle will go up and surge between 1500 n 2000, and the cel will throw 7. Tps. At random times. So I think the tps combined with a dead cell in the battery and or a bad ELD are the causes of my problems

TracerAcer2.2L

Glad to see one of these issues getting resolved in a quickly manner, seems like they usually don't lol

NeedmoPowr

U had to go and jinx me tracer lol, put voltage gauge on battery tested out fine, took car to auto zone battery and alternator tested out fine, replaced the tps sensor, no more code but no change otherwise? Car still idles at 1500, headlights and or heater on car will surge between 1500-2k, turn car off and right back on idle will go back to normal, well high but normal.

What makes the idle surge when load is put on charging system!!??????
PLEASE HELP
Also car is pretty slow and sluggish and vtec is quiet but still hitting I believe, it was fine and super quick last week and vtec hit HARD, now it feels like a single cam

TracerAcer2.2L

Finnicky little japanese cars lol.... man there's so much that could be wrong. A short in the wiring harness? Bad fuse? And now the vtec....I'll tell you this, if you go ahead now and replace your ECU, wire harness, vtec sensors and EGR, your problem is sure to go away! XP I don't believe in in jinxing, but sorry if I did

NeedmoPowr

Yeah at this point its running and driving reliably so I might just sell it. But I've never let a car defeat me all these years so I'm thinking next paycheck I'll order a p28 and get a fusebox in case its the ELD that's bad, I'll figure it out eventually but hopefully it just burns itself to the ground and puts me out of this misery lol

HiProfile

The ELD is supposed to increase IACV duty, meaning increase idle rpm, when a load is detected. IF the ELD is faulty, then it thinks it should always see an increased idle. It may not toss a code.

NeedmoPowr

So heater or headlights on idle goes up and sometimes surges is most likely a eld failure?? I'm gonna go get a fuse box from the junkyard today

HiProfile

If you've ruled out IACV, FITV, and vacuum leaks, then it's a likely culprit. Keep in mind I've heard of people with leaking FPR's and brake boosters. They'd cause fluctuating idle if something like the ELD is also bad.

NeedmoPowr

Anyway to check the fpr n brake boosters for leaks? I know when I pump my brakes fast the idle will raise then surge but I was under the impression that was normal?

And can i get a fuse box/eld out of any model accord? Is assume there all the same but don't know if different models with different accessories will varie or not

Also replaced the tps and calibrated it, then reset the computer but still throws the code after a couple miles down the road and feels sluggish,vtec is weak and alot quieter?Should I check the pins on the ecu or u think the ecu itself mite be shitting and the cause of all my problems
Thanks for your help btw bro

HiProfile

Hitting the brakes hard should change idle by no more than 100rpm and definitely not start surging. The best way to check is to disconnect the hose and plug it up (fyi don't drive it like that). I don't know enough about Accords to say much on the fuse box, but generally Honda's use the same fuse boxes across each model's individual generations. Just the fuse locations seem to change. If you find what the P/N is for your Accord, a search via P/N on hondapartsdeals.com shows what other years/trims use that part.

It may be worth testing the wires & ecu pins. I've seen a lot of that lately where it shows correct [low] resistance, but any vibration or harness movement results in a temporary break in continuity.

NeedmoPowr

Yeah it definitely goes up more then 100 rpm prolly goes up at least 500, so if I plug it up and there's a improvement then I need a new brake booster? Can't I plug it and still drive it the brakes will just be manual no boost to them, I'm gna trace the tps wires back to the ecu and see what's up