Gathering EK wiring information ...
07-25-2003, 09:49 AM
#28
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Gathering EK wiring information ... (Katman)
Looks awesome Jason!
Is it okay if I add your wire pic to the site I've had up for a while?
http://www.phear7imports.net/trey/6gen
Fig'd it help.
Modified by Trey at 12:23 PM 7/23/2004
Is it okay if I add your wire pic to the site I've had up for a while?
http://www.phear7imports.net/trey/6gen
Fig'd it help.
Modified by Trey at 12:23 PM 7/23/2004
07-25-2003, 10:11 AM
#29
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Thread Starter
Re: Gathering EK wiring information ... (Trey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Trey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks awesome Jason!
Is it okay if I add your wire pic to the site I've had up for a while?
http://www.eddiesun.net/~trey/6gen
Fig'd it help. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks..go right ahead
Is it okay if I add your wire pic to the site I've had up for a while?
http://www.eddiesun.net/~trey/6gen
Fig'd it help.
</TD></TR></TABLE>thanks..go right ahead
07-25-2003, 07:02 PM
#30
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Gathering EK wiring information ... (Katman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thanks..go right ahead </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks bro!
thanks..go right ahead
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks bro!
08-02-2003, 11:48 PM
#31
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hey katman, awesoem wiring diagram bro. i just have a slight problem...im putting in a non-vtec b18B into my 96-98 ek. i knew as soon as you said that the harnesses are incompatible, i was in trouble. i have not seen any wiring diags at all for NON-VTEC into a EK. everything else is how to repin vtecs to dx/cx harnesses. can you help a bro out. maybe if i can email you at least. thanks for listening.
08-03-2003, 12:45 AM
#33
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Re: (hatchattak)
Hey Katman,everything checks out to my notes also.But not to nit pick,You mention the 3 wire ckp sensor to a 2 wire censor?Wouldnt it be a CFK sensor instead?I was pretty sure the CKP sensor was in the distributor,and the CFK was on the oil pump.Other than that,looks really good.
08-03-2003, 04:55 AM
#34
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (aeolus)
It's the crank Fluctuation sensor and he is correct.
as for wiring the b18b in an ek, you HAVE to use the CX or DX harness on the B motor to get it to work in your car.
You CAN'T use the DC harness since it's two piece.
As for what to repin and chit, Kat's pic is dead on.
If you need more step by step info, click the EK swap guide link in my sig.
as for wiring the b18b in an ek, you HAVE to use the CX or DX harness on the B motor to get it to work in your car.
You CAN'T use the DC harness since it's two piece.
As for what to repin and chit, Kat's pic is dead on.
If you need more step by step info, click the EK swap guide link in my sig.
08-04-2003, 05:05 AM
#37
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Re: (Trey)
ok guys i need mad help here is what im dealing with:
99 DX hatch
y7 block
d16z6 head and I/m-(anyone know about what compression this yeilds?)
dx harness
using 99-00 DX t/b with the iacv hooked up, plugged the z6 iacv
p2p 99-00 EX ecu
ok the car runs fine with the DX ecu but once i put the p2p in it seems to run like crap kinda boggy and i get CEL for IACV and 22 vtec oil pressure. now according to the charts on this post the p2p uses a 2 wire iacv where the dx is 3. but none of my wiring matches up to anything is this post. like on the iacv move b6 to b23 which should be unused. my b23 has a wire in it and my b6 is a red wire not black/blue like katman stated.
now im thinking i can use the z6 iacv which takes a 2 plug which would work good with the p2p. but i cant figure out what wires go where and which are the right wires.
also i have vtec oil in c10 and the solenoid in b12, now my b12 was empty but the c10 had a wire already in it. i dont know if the car is just wired wierd or im just doing something wrong.
some one please help me.
also the valves tick really really loud and i did a valve adjustment but they are still hella loud WTF?
99 DX hatch
y7 block
d16z6 head and I/m-(anyone know about what compression this yeilds?)
dx harness
using 99-00 DX t/b with the iacv hooked up, plugged the z6 iacv
p2p 99-00 EX ecu
ok the car runs fine with the DX ecu but once i put the p2p in it seems to run like crap kinda boggy and i get CEL for IACV and 22 vtec oil pressure. now according to the charts on this post the p2p uses a 2 wire iacv where the dx is 3. but none of my wiring matches up to anything is this post. like on the iacv move b6 to b23 which should be unused. my b23 has a wire in it and my b6 is a red wire not black/blue like katman stated.
now im thinking i can use the z6 iacv which takes a 2 plug which would work good with the p2p. but i cant figure out what wires go where and which are the right wires.
also i have vtec oil in c10 and the solenoid in b12, now my b12 was empty but the c10 had a wire already in it. i dont know if the car is just wired wierd or im just doing something wrong.
some one please help me.
also the valves tick really really loud and i did a valve adjustment but they are still hella loud WTF?
08-04-2003, 05:52 AM
#38
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Timmay)
Don't worry so much about the wire color or existing wires.
If you use the EX ecu, cut and splice and repin like Kat's pic says to do.
Now the EX ecu will run smooth and the DX ecu will bog.
If you use the EX ecu, cut and splice and repin like Kat's pic says to do.
Now the EX ecu will run smooth and the DX ecu will bog.
08-04-2003, 10:48 AM
#39
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Re: (Trey)
ok so i should move b6 to 23 even though 23 has a wire? then just cut or remove b15. then i will have to unplug my existing 3 wire plug on the DX iacv and now use the z6 iacv which is 2 wire plug. and b15 should be a orange wire?
but why would i still be getting CEL 22 for vtec? i have all the vtec wired correctly but like i said C10 had a wire already in it but b12 did not. is my head not getting enough oil pressure?
another thing when i moved b6 into b23 i got code 71 or 2 which was misfire in CYL 2 that was on the p2p ecu
but why would i still be getting CEL 22 for vtec? i have all the vtec wired correctly but like i said C10 had a wire already in it but b12 did not. is my head not getting enough oil pressure?
another thing when i moved b6 into b23 i got code 71 or 2 which was misfire in CYL 2 that was on the p2p ecu
08-04-2003, 10:59 AM
#40
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (Timmay)
Ditto on what Trey said.
but to be more specific:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Timmay »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok guys i need mad help here is what im dealing with:
99 DX hatch
y7 block
d16z6 head and I/m-(anyone know about what compression this yeilds?)
dx harness
using 99-00 DX t/b with the iacv hooked up, plugged the z6 iacv
p2p 99-00 EX ecu
ok the car runs fine with the DX ecu but once i put the p2p in it seems to run like crap kinda boggy and i get CEL for IACV and 22 vtec oil pressure.
~ Code 22 is obvious since you haven't wired up VTEC yet. You'll get code 14 (IACV) with a P2P ecu cuz' the EX 5-speed engine & ECU is designed to use the 2-wire type IACV; which you'll need to convert to, per my instructions. Now, if you have an AUTO P2P ecu that's different. Auto EX engines & ECU's look for a 3-wire type IACV.
now according to the charts on this post the p2p uses a 2 wire iacv where the dx is 3. but none of my wiring matches up to anything is this post. like on the iacv move b6 to b23 which should be unused. my b23 has a wire in it and my b6 is a red wire not black/blue like katman stated.
~ Hmm, well I have a feeling you might be looking that the "B" plug from the wrong angle / view, unless your car is an Auto. Take a look at this image I just slapped together, your DX B plug should look like this if you own a 5-speed DX:
now im thinking i can use the z6 iacv which takes a 2 plug which would work good with the p2p. but i cant figure out what wires go where and which are the right wires.
~ Well, my main diagram shows where the the pinout locations are for the 3-wire & 2-wire IACV. Honda didn't secretley change the IACV pinout locations anytime recently. lol. So yes, you can reuse the Z6 IACV, just re-look at your B-plug. If all else fails, snap a couple pics of your B-plug to show us your 'extra' wire problems.
also i have vtec oil in c10 and the solenoid in b12, now my b12 was empty but the c10 had a wire already in it. i dont know if the car is just wired wierd or im just doing something wrong.
~ Weird. Well if C10 already wired up and you are looking at the ecu plugs from the right direction, then cool...you don't have to wire up C10; wire up B12 and VTEC will work.
some one please help me.
also the valves tick really really loud and i did a valve adjustment but they are still hella loud WTF?</TD></TR></TABLE>
but to be more specific:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Timmay »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok guys i need mad help here is what im dealing with:
99 DX hatch
y7 block
d16z6 head and I/m-(anyone know about what compression this yeilds?)
dx harness
using 99-00 DX t/b with the iacv hooked up, plugged the z6 iacv
p2p 99-00 EX ecu
ok the car runs fine with the DX ecu but once i put the p2p in it seems to run like crap kinda boggy and i get CEL for IACV and 22 vtec oil pressure.
~ Code 22 is obvious since you haven't wired up VTEC yet. You'll get code 14 (IACV) with a P2P ecu cuz' the EX 5-speed engine & ECU is designed to use the 2-wire type IACV; which you'll need to convert to, per my instructions. Now, if you have an AUTO P2P ecu that's different. Auto EX engines & ECU's look for a 3-wire type IACV.
now according to the charts on this post the p2p uses a 2 wire iacv where the dx is 3. but none of my wiring matches up to anything is this post. like on the iacv move b6 to b23 which should be unused. my b23 has a wire in it and my b6 is a red wire not black/blue like katman stated.
~ Hmm, well I have a feeling you might be looking that the "B" plug from the wrong angle / view, unless your car is an Auto. Take a look at this image I just slapped together, your DX B plug should look like this if you own a 5-speed DX:
now im thinking i can use the z6 iacv which takes a 2 plug which would work good with the p2p. but i cant figure out what wires go where and which are the right wires.
~ Well, my main diagram shows where the the pinout locations are for the 3-wire & 2-wire IACV. Honda didn't secretley change the IACV pinout locations anytime recently. lol. So yes, you can reuse the Z6 IACV, just re-look at your B-plug. If all else fails, snap a couple pics of your B-plug to show us your 'extra' wire problems.
also i have vtec oil in c10 and the solenoid in b12, now my b12 was empty but the c10 had a wire already in it. i dont know if the car is just wired wierd or im just doing something wrong.
~ Weird. Well if C10 already wired up and you are looking at the ecu plugs from the right direction, then cool...you don't have to wire up C10; wire up B12 and VTEC will work.
some one please help me.
also the valves tick really really loud and i did a valve adjustment but they are still hella loud WTF?</TD></TR></TABLE>
08-04-2003, 03:14 PM
#42
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Re: (poison)
ok now im really confused, i know im looking at the right plug but i must be reading it wrong. dont you read side to side not up and down? like the number 19 and 25 in the bottom of the plug doesnt that mean they go side to side?
so do i read right to left, top to bottom??? ive been reading them right to left row by row
like :
8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1
16,15,14,13,12,11,10,9
etc.... etc...
this is if im looking from the back of the plug just like the picture
car is a 99 DX 5 speed, and i have a 5 speed p2p(i hope) i dont know how i can tell if it is auto or 5
Modified by Timmay at 12:27 AM 8/5/2003
so do i read right to left, top to bottom??? ive been reading them right to left row by row
like :
8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1
16,15,14,13,12,11,10,9
etc.... etc...
this is if im looking from the back of the plug just like the picture
car is a 99 DX 5 speed, and i have a 5 speed p2p(i hope) i dont know how i can tell if it is auto or 5
Modified by Timmay at 12:27 AM 8/5/2003
08-04-2003, 03:28 PM
#43
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (Timmay)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Timmay »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok now im really confused, i know im looking at the right plug but i must be reading it wrong. dont you read side to side not up and down? like the number 19 and 25 in the bottom of the plug doesnt that mean they go side to side?
so do i read right to left, top to bottom??? ive been reading them left to right row by row
like :
8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1
16,15,14,13,12,11,10,9
etc.... etc...
this is if im looking from the back of the plug just like the picture
car is a 99 DX 5 speed, and i have a 5 speed p2p(i hope) i dont know how i can tell if it is auto or 5</TD></TR></TABLE>
no no no no no.....
DO NOT pay attention to the little imprinted numbers at the bottom of the plug, those will throw you way off. The only number that makes any sense is the 25P number which designates to be a 25 pin (total) plug.
You read the plug pinouts from left to right as seen in my pic:
top row 1 -- > 1 2 3 4 5 7 8
middle row 2 --> 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17
bottom row 3 --> 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
maybe you should let someone who's experienced with Honda wiring, handle the wiring of your
so do i read right to left, top to bottom??? ive been reading them left to right row by row
like :
8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1
16,15,14,13,12,11,10,9
etc.... etc...
this is if im looking from the back of the plug just like the picture
car is a 99 DX 5 speed, and i have a 5 speed p2p(i hope) i dont know how i can tell if it is auto or 5</TD></TR></TABLE>
no no no no no.....
DO NOT pay attention to the little imprinted numbers at the bottom of the plug, those will throw you way off. The only number that makes any sense is the 25P number which designates to be a 25 pin (total) plug.
You read the plug pinouts from left to right as seen in my pic:
top row 1 -- > 1 2 3 4 5 7 8
middle row 2 --> 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17
bottom row 3 --> 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
maybe you should let someone who's experienced with Honda wiring, handle the wiring of your
08-04-2003, 03:45 PM
#45
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Re: (poison)
i must be ******* stupid, i dont deal with obd2 **** ever, of all the swaps ive dont dpfi to mpfi, h22a civic swap and numerous b16a swaps i have never had problems like this BS. thats what i was doing reading it right to left like the numbers said.
anyone have any clues about why the valves are so loud???
anyone have any clues about why the valves are so loud???
08-04-2003, 04:08 PM
#46
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Re: (Timmay)
did you guys re-pinned the second O2 sensor? what would happen if you don't do this? i finished a 96dx auto to manual conversion, and dropped in a gsr engine. no check engine light, no problems but one thing. the only thing happening with the swap, is that at 1500 rpms the engine cuts out(just like a rev limiter). but if you give it gas, it keeps reving to redline. would this be because, i haven't reppined that second O2 sensor?
08-04-2003, 05:01 PM
#47
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Re: (smokey2.0)
Ok...
I've read all this thread numerous times and here is a question I have...
96 CX hatch -> OBD1 B16A
I will be using a OBD2a-OBD1 adaptor and a chipped P28.
My "plan" was to use the DX harness on the B16A and splice the extra wiring off the obd-conversion harness for Vtec, pressure switch. Or just add it to the plug on the ECU side on the obd2 plug.
So I should have to perform the IACV mod to my DX harness for the 2 pin IACV on the B16A right?
Any other issues I have not tought about? If any good, I have a 95 Si complete engine harness(engine bay only) sitting here. Should I look into getting a "ECU to Engine" harness also and forget about the ecu jumper all together and make it easier like that?
Thanks for your precious time Honda wiring Gods
I've read all this thread numerous times and here is a question I have...
96 CX hatch -> OBD1 B16A
I will be using a OBD2a-OBD1 adaptor and a chipped P28.
My "plan" was to use the DX harness on the B16A and splice the extra wiring off the obd-conversion harness for Vtec, pressure switch. Or just add it to the plug on the ECU side on the obd2 plug.
So I should have to perform the IACV mod to my DX harness for the 2 pin IACV on the B16A right?
Any other issues I have not tought about? If any good, I have a 95 Si complete engine harness(engine bay only) sitting here. Should I look into getting a "ECU to Engine" harness also and forget about the ecu jumper all together and make it easier like that?
Thanks for your precious time Honda wiring Gods
08-04-2003, 06:26 PM
#48
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (Skyllz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skyllz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok...
I've read all this thread numerous times and here is a question I have...
96 CX hatch -> OBD1 B16A
I will be using a OBD2a-OBD1 adaptor and a chipped P28.
My "plan" was to use the DX harness on the B16A and splice the extra wiring off the obd-conversion harness for Vtec, pressure switch. Or just add it to the plug on the ECU side on the obd2 plug.
So I should have to perform the IACV mod to my DX harness for the 2 pin IACV on the B16A right?
Any other issues I have not tought about? If any good, I have a 95 Si complete engine harness(engine bay only) sitting here. Should I look into getting a "ECU to Engine" harness also and forget about the ecu jumper all together and make it easier like that?
Thanks for your precious time Honda wiring Gods </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, if you stick with your DX harness you still need to perform the IACV fix, cuz the OBD1 B16A engine uses a 2-wire type IACV, along with adding the wiring for VTEC & the KS. I like suggesting the use of a 96-98 EX harness, but if the DX harness is all you have to work with then, so be it. BTW, you'll have to stick with an EK engine harness because of its 1-piece design...you won't be able to adapt the 95 Si engine harness in any shape, form, or fashion because of it's a 2-piece design. I suggest sticking with an EK engine harness and using the OBD2b->OBD1 adapter harness as you orginally planned...that's the easiest way to go about this.
Also, I assume you're going to change the OBD1 distributor, injectors, and alternator in favor for these same parts in OBD2 form, correct?
POISION,
Nope, I'm not planning on going to any car meets, sorry.
I've read all this thread numerous times and here is a question I have...
96 CX hatch -> OBD1 B16A
I will be using a OBD2a-OBD1 adaptor and a chipped P28.
My "plan" was to use the DX harness on the B16A and splice the extra wiring off the obd-conversion harness for Vtec, pressure switch. Or just add it to the plug on the ECU side on the obd2 plug.
So I should have to perform the IACV mod to my DX harness for the 2 pin IACV on the B16A right?
Any other issues I have not tought about? If any good, I have a 95 Si complete engine harness(engine bay only) sitting here. Should I look into getting a "ECU to Engine" harness also and forget about the ecu jumper all together and make it easier like that?
Thanks for your precious time Honda wiring Gods
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, if you stick with your DX harness you still need to perform the IACV fix, cuz the OBD1 B16A engine uses a 2-wire type IACV, along with adding the wiring for VTEC & the KS. I like suggesting the use of a 96-98 EX harness, but if the DX harness is all you have to work with then, so be it. BTW, you'll have to stick with an EK engine harness because of its 1-piece design...you won't be able to adapt the 95 Si engine harness in any shape, form, or fashion because of it's a 2-piece design. I suggest sticking with an EK engine harness and using the OBD2b->OBD1 adapter harness as you orginally planned...that's the easiest way to go about this.
Also, I assume you're going to change the OBD1 distributor, injectors, and alternator in favor for these same parts in OBD2 form, correct?
POISION,
Nope, I'm not planning on going to any car meets, sorry.
08-04-2003, 06:40 PM
#49
Senior Member
Re: (Katman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, if you stick with your DX harness you still need to perform the IACV fix, cuz the OBD1 B16A engine uses a 2-wire type IACV, along with adding the wiring for VTEC & the KS. I like suggesting the use of a 96-98 EX harness, but if the DX harness is all you have to work with then, so be it. BTW, you'll have to stick with an EK engine harness because of its 1-piece design...you won't be able to adapt the 95 Si engine harness in any shape, form, or fashion because of it's a 2-piece design. I suggest sticking with an EK engine harness and using the OBD2b->OBD1 adapter harness as you orginally planned...that's the easiest way to go about this.
Also, I assume you're going to change the OBD1 distributor, injectors, and alternator in favor for these same parts in OBD2 form, correct?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would also definitely recommend getting an EX harness. Re-pinning and doing the IACV fix and all that is one hell of a bitch. It just takes a butt load of time. Especially with an OBD1 motor. You have to switch the IACV, IAT, alternator plugs, re-pin the distributor. I actually have information on my car for the exact wires on the dist. But it is not with me now.
Yes, if you stick with your DX harness you still need to perform the IACV fix, cuz the OBD1 B16A engine uses a 2-wire type IACV, along with adding the wiring for VTEC & the KS. I like suggesting the use of a 96-98 EX harness, but if the DX harness is all you have to work with then, so be it. BTW, you'll have to stick with an EK engine harness because of its 1-piece design...you won't be able to adapt the 95 Si engine harness in any shape, form, or fashion because of it's a 2-piece design. I suggest sticking with an EK engine harness and using the OBD2b->OBD1 adapter harness as you orginally planned...that's the easiest way to go about this.
Also, I assume you're going to change the OBD1 distributor, injectors, and alternator in favor for these same parts in OBD2 form, correct?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would also definitely recommend getting an EX harness. Re-pinning and doing the IACV fix and all that is one hell of a bitch. It just takes a butt load of time. Especially with an OBD1 motor. You have to switch the IACV, IAT, alternator plugs, re-pin the distributor. I actually have information on my car for the exact wires on the dist. But it is not with me now.
08-04-2003, 06:47 PM
#50
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Re: (smokey2.0)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokey2.0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you guys re-pinned the second O2 sensor? what would happen if you don't do this? i finished a 96dx auto to manual conversion, and dropped in a gsr engine. no check engine light, no problems but one thing. the only thing happening with the swap, is that at 1500 rpms the engine cuts out(just like a rev limiter). but if you give it gas, it keeps reving to redline. would this be because, i haven't reppined that second O2 sensor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
anyone please!
anyone please!
