95turboeg

Well most of everyone saw our B18c1 build with CTR pistons, CTR intake and ITR exhaust cams that we put in my brothers 1997 EK hatch. It was a great motor very peppy and fast. We ran a best of 9.1 @ 80 mph in the 1/8th with 2.2 60 ft. Well, us not being able to leave well enough alone wanted more. After hearing alot of great things about the H2B kit, we decided to give it a try. So we yanked out the B18c1, and sold it.

Well after selling it we called up Steve at Hmotorsonline.com and ordered up a F20b.(Which to anyone who doesnt know this motor is out of JDM Accord/Troneo Sir and Sir-T)

200hp@7200/145tq@6600
notes: (ported head and type-s cams(12.1, 11.2 lift), 2.0L block 11:1cr 85mm pistons
The F20b is sort of a cross between a F and H motor. it has the iron sleeves of the F motors, the basic block casting of the 98+ H22a4's, the head is close to the H22, it has smaller B-series size valves in what is basicly an H22 head, the ports are shaped slightly different though. It has an 85mm bore with 88mm stroke, the crank has 55mm mains like the 98+H22, with small B-series sized rod journals. The rod is long and built very beefy.. looks like an S2000 rod and has a 23mm floating wrist pin.




Here are some pics of the motor after it arrived. I stripped it of wiring harness (since we will be using the stock EK harness, I did leave the alternator wiring though so I can splice it into the stock harness), the exhaust manifold(We have purchased a aftermarket manifold. You dont have to for this swap but we just decided too.)and the Crank pulley( We are using aftermarket light weight pulley, more on that later) While we have the motor out we will be replacing the timing belt, and inspecting the water pump.









And here is our GSR S80 tranny laying on the floor, oozing tranny fluid out LOL. We will be cleaning it up before installing it on Monday.



<U>UPDATE!!! MOTOR IS IN!!</U>

Guess what the UPS man brought today?? The Quarter sports H2B kit.







This is the driver side mount bracket. This mount bracket will mount to the engine block. (More pics of that mounted on the motor later.)





This bracket will be mounted on the back of the engine, and holds the Axle half shaft. (More pics of that later)







This little peice is the flywheel spacer. Pretty self explanatory.





This is the heart of the whole thing, The adapter plate.





<U>OK LETS BEGIN.</U>

This is the driver side mount bracket on the motor. To get to it you will need to remove the timing belt cover. Which is 8, 10 mm bolts. You will need to remove this mount bracket and replace it with the quartersports unit.



Here is the Quartersports Mount bracket installed.



Now that was easy. The next part we will need to do is grind down the back of the block. Ok I know this is scary, I mean new motor and grinding it. It really isnt that bad though. The block needs to be ground down a little bit for the quartersports half-shaft bracket to fit, and the half-shaft to fit. Here is where you have to grind.



All the area in the yellow needs to be ground down about 1/2 inch, it will cut into the rear oil pan until it hits the oil pan bolts.



After you have that ground down just get some hondabond and smear all over it. The oil pan wont leak but this is just insurance.



Ok next is to install the adapter plate. There are 4 countersunk bolts that secure the adapter plate on the front. and 4 more bolts on the other side of the plate securing it to the motor. Very easy to install.



Next once the plate is attached lets install the flywhell spacer, flywheel and clutch.





The spacer goes on easy. It has a dowel hole that lines up with the crank dowel. The spacer is machined perfect.





Next install the flywheel with the supplied bolts from quartersports. And torque to 94 ftlbs, AND REMEMBER LOCTITE!!

Remember you will use a b-series flywheel, and clutch.









Alright after the Clutch is installed it is time to attach the Tranny. This could get cumbersome so two people doing it will help. Just push the tranny on, and start the top 2 bolts and work your way around. Quartersports also supplies the bolts here too, they are great.









Now here is a the full motor together.





Ok lets put the motor in the car.





The motor is very easy to manuever in from the bottom. I was very surprised how easy this motor was to put in, actually easier than a B-series. When you put this motor in it will be just like installing the a b-series motor.





Here are some under car shots.



This is the shift linkage being installed, and the rear L-bracket. It installs just like a B-series.





The shift linkage installed.





Here is the motor fully installed.



The passenger side mount.



The driver side mount, we need another bolt in there I know.



And the Rear mount.



Here is a side profile of the car to show how the motor fits. We can close the hood!! Awesome.





We pushed the car out back for tommorrow. Got some pics outside.







And my brother deciding to hump his new motor since he was so happy in the pants.



We will be wiring the motor up tommorrow, and installing the axles. More updates on that as it progresses. But basically the big stuff is over with. Overall this swap is I think as easy if not easier than a B-series. I would recommend it to anyone who decides to do this. Let me know if there are any questions, and thanks for looking guys.

This motor looks exactly like the beloved H22a. This motor comes with the blue valve cover. Here are some specs on the motor.

As for what ecu we will be running. We got a 0BD2a to OBD1 conversion harness and a chipped P28 with a H22a base map from John Vega. We will be taking it to him to get it street tuned as soon as we can set a appointment up after the motor is installed. He is a great guy and answers alot of questions from my brother Chris, from what I understand Chris calls him alot with questions LOL. Visit his site if you get a chance. phearable.net

The engine arrived today at our shop, I will have pictures of it up tommorrow afternoon. And mad props to Steve HMO for hooking us up with a clean motor at a great price. Next thing we did was call Seth over at Quartersports racing and ordered the H2B kit. Now anyone not familiar with this kit can find out some info here Welcome to QSD The kit retails for around $750.

This H2B kit, makes it possible to put a H or F series motor into your civic or integra using your B-series tranny, Axles, Shift linkage, and mounts. With your B-series tranny you get shorter gears than the prelude tranny, and perfect axle angles. Another plus is no cutting to get the shift linkage to fit, since you can use your stock B-series linkage. We ordered the EK H2B kit since we will be putting this motor in a 97 hatch. If you are wondering more and want to read about other peoples H2b builds check out these on Honda-tech:

Honda-Tech.com: Hybrid: H22 H2B EG Civic Project has started. (56k, go swap a motor)

Honda-Tech.com: Hybrid: h2b into Del sol

Honda-Tech.com: Hybrid: Quarter Sports Drag H2B Kit

Here is what the kit contains:EK96-2001

Kit includes:
· CNC 6061 Aluminum Adapter
- 15 Fasteners
· 4130 Chromoly Flywheel Spacer
- 8 ARP Fasteners
· Fabricated Intermediate Axle Adapter
- 7 Fasteners
· Fabricated Engine Mount Bracket
- 6 Fasteners
· CNC Clutch Slave Cylinder Spacer
- 2 fasteners

Once we get the H2B kit at our shop on Monday we will begin the install. Also we will be running 75 wet shot of nitrous on this motor as well, we are hoping for low 12's to high 11's in the 1/4, if we can get traction.

I will make a complete Write up on how to do this swap. I am not sure if anyone around has done one. So once I am done with it maybe it can become a sticky???? haha heres hoping. Well I will update daily with pics. Thanx again for looking and reading.


-Braxton

Cookie

Wow, great write up, Braxton. How many days did that take you again? WTG!!

He does look helpful, doesn't he?!

95turboeg

Believe it or not we did this all in 3 hours, LOL.

No really we did. We got the motor Friday, We got the QSD kit today. And we started it around 5pm Eastern time after work, and got done around 8 pm. Granted we still need to wire this up, and install the axles and half shaft. But after that it is done.

Again we have all the power tools, and lifts at our disposal. And we are both very good mechanics. In your own garage it would take a couple days I would expect. You would not believe how a airgun and lifts can cut at least a couple hours off of a build.

It was very fun though, we should have it running by Friday at the latest. Videos will be up after that, from our local track.

-Brax

turtleman321

just what i was looking for. i destroyed first gear in my h tranny now im goin h2b. i just have to get the parts and weld in the shifter bolts on the center console tunnel.

one question what did you use to grind down the block.

95turboeg

I used a air die grinder. But you can use a electric grinder. It is fairly simple, just scarey.

-Brax

project civic

nice h2b ek. Did you guys have hood clearance issues? and did you guys have to modify the driverside framerail? Swap looks pretty simple though.

95turboeg

Thanx man,

The hood does close. All we did was take the Map sensor off the Throttle body, and mount it somewhere else, and cut a little ribbing in the hood. No prob at all.

The driverside frame rail will need to be beat in a little bit for the alternator with the stock H/F series alternator. I will post more pics of that later. But the swap is pretty simple and straight forward.

-Braxton

H2B just chillin

NYCE

H+B=POWA

project civic

can the b18 flywheel dust shield be utilized or is the flywheel going to be exposed?

Bense

nice

F20B pwns

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brax90si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Overall this swap is I think as easy if not easier than a B-series.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I call BS on this one bro, sorry, I just don't see it.

you have to change the timing belt mount
you have to grind the block
you have to bang the frame rail
you have extra wiring to do

hpi247

awesome write up guys . im getting ready to drop my h2b into a 94 civic. looks like the swap went really well for you.

i have never seen a picture of the block grinding. yours has really given me a beter idea of what needs to be done.

LSR 0NE

Really nice write up, you guys answer many questions I had on this issue, but I still have a couple of questions to ask. Like the wiring, do you just do it like you would a b series or do you need to run the resistor box?. Oh yeah what about axles?. Sorry for the noob question!!

rebo0t

nice

EG_H2B

NICE

hpi247

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSR 0NE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really nice write up, you guys answer many questions I had on this issue, but I still have a couple of questions to ask. Like the wiring, do you just do it like you would a b series or do you need to run the resistor box?. Oh yeah what about axles?. Sorry for the noob question!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
from what i have learned, you need a resistor box if you are using stock h22 injectors. factory h22 i think are peak and hold which need the resistor, versus saturated where you do not need the resistor. i believe you can use 97 and up injectors and a resistor box wont be needed, dont quote me on that part though.

PremierS372

good job

95turboeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I call BS on this one bro, sorry, I just don't see it.

you have to change the timing belt mount
you have to grind the block
you have to bang the frame rail
you have extra wiring to do</TD></TR></TABLE>


U can call BS, but I am ASE master Mech. and I work on cars all day. This was a walk in the park with air tools, air cutting tools, and car lifts. Now if you were doing this in your home garage that would be a different story. All in all it really wasnt that hard. Just take your time. I also had my brother, and another Mech. from work helping me. So I was doing something, and they were doing another thing. So we got it done fast.

95turboeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hpi247 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
from what i have learned, you need a resistor box if you are using stock h22 injectors. factory h22 i think are peak and hold which need the resistor, versus saturated where you do not need the resistor. i believe you can use 97 and up injectors and a resistor box wont be needed, dont quote me on that part though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

We are using the stock F20b injectors which are saturated so no resistor box is required. Now the older H22a's due have Peak and Hold style injectors and will need a resistor box. I believe after 1997 the motors went to saturated injectors on the h/f series not positive though.

turtleman321

yeah it took me maybe 5-6 hours to drop my h in

95turboeg

This was the driver side frame rail we had to bang in( my bro got carried away and decided to cut it LOL, not needed but we said hey why not to make sure we have enough room. :lol: The alternator fits perfect now.)

So you can use your stock H22a alternator bracket, and stock H22a alternator in the EK civic with the quarteRsports h2b kit. The frame rail doesnt need to be cut, just banged in with a big hammer. We just got carried away haha. I would recommend do the banging with the motor out of the car.

As for the alternator wiring all I did was cut the F20b alternator harness and wire it into the Stock civic harness. Just match the wires up to the colors. The colors are the same on both ends. Other than that no other wiring. Very easy install.










THis is the passenger side axle.



This is the half-shaft.



Getting ready to start the motor, filling it all full of fluids.



This is the finished product, we actually got to drive it out of the shop today. We are still waiting on a crank pulley, and then we are street ready. But it cranked up the first time, and ran great.







Thanx again guys for looking and all the great comments. This was a very fun project.

-Brax

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brax90si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">U can call BS, but I am ASE master Mech. and I work on cars all day. This was a walk in the park with air tools, air cutting tools, and car lifts. Now if you were doing this in your home garage that would be a different story. All in all it really wasnt that hard. Just take your time. I also had my brother, and another Mech. from work helping me. So I was doing something, and they were doing another thing. So we got it done fast.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't care how good you are and what certifications you have, this isn't up for debate.

Do I believe that it wasn't very difficult for you to do? Yes, I'll believe that.

Do I believe that it requires <FONT SIZE="2">less</FONT> work than a straight up b-series swap? No.

The swap looks good, excellent motor choice and I'm sure it will be an awesome setup. I have an F20B too

88ED8

ttt

jewpont

what is the new crank pulley for? And how much did the h2b kit cost and how much did the whole entire swap come out too from start to finish?

turtleman321

its not a new crank pulley. its the stock one with the power steering part machined off to give more clearence for the frame rail.

also the QSD kit (one used in this thread) is 880 shipped. if you dont have a b series tranny you need that b series mounts, axles, shift linkage, clutch, flywheel.