Bense

not sure, i'm sure it's within +/- 10 lbs of the h22a4

Sahwn

so the weight of the D and B trannys are pretty close? I have no clue which is why I ask. I have read that the H swap weighs about 80lbs more than a B swap and I thought that was due mainly to the trans. (no personal experience here)

Bense

If I recall correctly, the B and H trans weigh about 2-3 lbs of each other. And I think that the D trans weighs about 13 lbs less than B trans.

I think the B axles weigh more than the D axles as well. The lighthened custom aluminum flywheel saves some weight as well as the lighter D clutch/pressureplate. The EX D-series trans also shares a lot of the same bearings as the B-series trannys.

Weight will be shaved from this longblock due to the single stage manifold, lighter alternator, and once the balance shafts are removed.

Prob more info than you wanted to know, but I'm bored

turbociviccoupe

hook it up with more pictures

hybridpatient95

word more pics! nice build so far bense! tranny gearing looks good

Sahwn

this maybe stupid.......but how good are the D axles. I do hear of people with Turbo D's so I guess they hold fine. Again, I don't know.
Oh, I am bored too.......the wife is watching Desperate Hoe's or some ****

AntiochOG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vestalfootball72 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should do a full tranny rebuild writeup </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2

Sweet project, good luck.

Also I really liked this quote "I will be honest, there is nothing more gratifying than shooting flames out of a side pipe at NINE THOUSAND rpms with a cammed engine!!!!"

HiProfile

The axles are okay, its just that most people using d-series axles think you have to dump the clutch at 5k w/o preloading to get a good launch. In otherwords, n00bs. Its the difference from pushing on someone's head with a hammer VS swinging it into their head. The other thing to think about is if they're used or new. Used ones (assuming good internals) are the best due to the work-hardening & slight heat treatment inside & out. My sedan has the original axles from 1990 (new moly inside), and they've held up nicely with boost.

When you asked F2D or dual-charge, I was expecting a nearly drop-in arrangement with the big F. You always like to make things more complicated than they are. Good luck with it.

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most people using d-series axles think you have to dump the clutch at 5k w/o preloading to get a good launch. In otherwords, n00bs. Its the difference from pushing on someone's head with a hammer VS swinging it into their head. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you asked F2D or dual-charge, I was expecting a nearly drop-in arrangement with the big F. You always like to make things more complicated than they are. Good luck with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well there's a lot of little tinkering with the intake manifold and the light fab work, etc. But most of those things are a one time thing. I will only have to tap & thread the euro manifold once, I'll only have to grind the back of the block once, etc etc.

Most of the work on this project is the kind of stuff that I can just tinker with on a saturday. Even though the intake manifold has taken a lot of time, it's been fun working on it. Most of us "tuners" enjoy this type of stuff. It increases our testosterone, makes us feel like the buff, manly men that we are. YEAH I WORKED WITH METAL TODAY, I AM A REAL MAN!

ranta18

Good luck man. Let me know if I can be of any more help. I can't wait to see you get this thing going.

Hopefully some day I'll get mine back up and going.

88ED8

Nice!! more pics...

Sahwn

Then you must REALLY feel that you EARNED the TEAM RUSH Memeber Status! LOL!

necro96

Nice build...def need more pics.

skunked

Are you going to run into the same frame rail, master cylinder and shock tower clearance issues that Ranta did? Based on his build wouldn't it be hard to run that Euro-R pulley? Maybe the EG has more room than the EK?

ranta18

EFs and EGs do not have any of the problems I did with clearances. His will be much easier. No need to mess with the shock tower, master cylinder, or frame rail. I've seen pictures of a H2D in a EG. Dam EKs! It was a learning experience for myself and Bisi, but someone had to be the test dummy.

98vtec

git-r-done boooiiyeeeeee

skunked

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ranta18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EFs and EGs do not have any of the problems I did with clearances. His will be much easier. No need to mess with the shock tower, master cylinder, or frame rail. I've seen pictures of a H2D in a EG. Dam EKs! </TD></TR></TABLE>

That should make the install smoother

marcusgnf

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have gathered a lot of info so what I think is required is:
1. grind back of block for axle fitment
2. fabricate pull style slave cylinder bracket
3. remove balance the gears that are on the balance shafts
4. move crank pulley inboard
5. fabricate alternator brackets for D alternator and relocated crank pulley (or purchase one from QSD)
6. relocate oil drain plug to frontside of oil pan
8. lengthen wires on D-series harness for alternator relocation
7. bend stock h22 header
8. use euro-R intake manifold ***
9. lower whole engine/trans assembly by placing washers between pass side trans mount + trans
10. hammer shock tower for timing belt clearance
11. cut valve cover to allow shock tower clearance
12. Fabricate drivers side mount
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Got a couple of questions since ill be doing this in a couple of months(with a f23 though)

1) why is it necessary to fabricate a bracket for the slave cylinder, cant you just use the stock master cylinder and slave as it will be a stock y8 hydro trans(for my setup)
2) Is it necessary to fabricate a alternator bracket? i.e. is the f series alternator in the way of something, from what i heard this was only necessary on an ek chassis
3) I also thought it was only necessary to modify the shock tower on an ek chasiss also

any help will be greatly appreciated

marcusgnf

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That should make the install smoother </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh wait nvm i think he just answered my question lol

marcusgnf

I also want to know about the whole crank pulley ordeal on an EG can you use a stock one or do you need a modified one (maybe i should just wait and see lol)

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Workless &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then you must REALLY feel that you EARNED the TEAM RUSH Memeber Status! LOL! </TD></TR></TABLE>

hahaha

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you going to run into the same frame rail, master cylinder and shock tower clearance issues that Ranta did? Based on his build wouldn't it be hard to run that Euro-R pulley? Maybe the EG has more room than the EK?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That seems to be debated right now, there is but one picture of this from Aaron Hillman who's the only other person that has done this swap in an EG.


He says that he ran a machined h22 single channel pulley and didn't run into any issues. Also, according to Aaron, he did have to very slightly bang the shock tower with a hammer, but he painted it over and stated that you can't even tell.



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marcusgnf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Got a couple of questions since ill be doing this in a couple of months(with a f23 though)

1) why is it necessary to fabricate a bracket for the slave cylinder, cant you just use the stock master cylinder and slave as it will be a stock y8 hydro trans(for my setup)
2) Is it necessary to fabricate a alternator bracket? i.e. is the f series alternator in the way of something, from what i heard this was only necessary on an ek chassis
3) I also thought it was only necessary to modify the shock tower on an ek chasiss also

any help will be greatly appreciated</TD></TR></TABLE>

First things first, the D trans sits slightly closer towards the drivers side than the B trans, so there's even less room with H2D than there is with H2B.

The stock slave cylinder can't be used because the larger engine is in the way. I don't have pictures now because I am not yet finished with the project. But rest assured, like always, I will be sure to take tons of high resolution pictures and document everything as to answer every possible question. Stay +Tuned+


Modified by Bense at 9:20 PM 2/12/2007

vsmhatched

blundar

you crack me up. good luck.

ranta18

Reason for the pull type slave...




Is it done yet?! What did you do all weekend?

turbociviccoupe

^^^
that is tight!