Dorkenheimer

H23a converted to OBD1
EG chassis
Just about near everything is new, except the internals on the motor.
Brake tuck, fuel tuck, wire tuck, bay paint, etc.
RBC manifold

So, here's the situation...

Some key factors first:

1) I have NO o2 sensor hooked up at the moment. I was provided a connector for a 4.2 wideband sensor on my harness. I went and bought a 4.9 sensor and a/f gauge, only to find it didn't fit the 4.2 connector. So, I ran the 4.9 sensor, into the cabin, plugged it into the gauge and wired the gauge into the flying leads on my harness. My gauge had no power even after being wired in. I went and bought a 4.2 sensor and finally connected that onto my harness provided connection....still, no difference in idle or power to the gauge. If that's confusing I'll have to sketch out what I'm seeing.

2) I'm using a tucked harness. In the process of getting my stock harness out of the way, I cut the shock tower plugs off of my stock harness. "Knowing" I won't be needing them. I taped up all exposed wiring from that and just rechecked it all tonight. All seems well. My harness came with several flying leads to tap into. Some for the harness itself, some for o2.

3) I'm using a KS Black ECU with s300v3. I was told that I was setup with a proper h2b with bolt-ons base map, as I requested when I ordered the ECU. I have 410cc injectors and I'm not sure what their set at for duty cycle.

4) All mechanicals seem good. Plugs in right order, not 180 out, fresh full fluids, new plugs/wires, motor is super fresh @ 4x,000 miles from HMO (very clean inside and out), TPS is brand new and calibrated, MAP is brand new as well, grounds seem good, everything is plugged in except the knock sensor on the harness (I'm running OBD1), injectors plugged in correct order.

5) No cluster illumination, heater blower, climate control lighting, or horn. I have all my indicator lights (CEL, oil, battery, etc...those all work) and even radio works. All the vent positions (hi-lo, feet heat, defrost) on the climate control work. Headlights, turn signals work.

6) NO CEL's.

The fuel pump primes, every time. The motor starts, and starts strong every time. It will roughly/barely idle for about 3-5 seconds and then die off. Not cut off...die off. There has been two times where it's idled for about 10 seconds on it's own, although it was hectic and lumpy. I can keep it alive by blipping the throttle lightly. Any serious stab of the throttle seems to kill, or almost kill it. It's open header at the moment, but it smells like fuel when I keep it running.

Does this sound like my engine is getting flooded by the 410's not being set proper?

Why no cluster illumination/heater blower/climate control lighting when all the rest works?

I'm a first timer at all of this, learning as I go. Any tips are appreciated! Trying to get my baby up and running for Hondafest in April.

snobordboy

Yeah, honestly with that setup, especially the injectors, I would just tow it to a tuner and have them get the map right for it, it should be that simple.

ShinsenTuner

iTrader: (1)

You should double check that all your harness plugs are in their correct spots. Common mix-up is the TPS and MAP sensor, which could cause some problems. Also, you should plug in your laptop to the S300 to see what settings were adjusted for your map. At minimum it should be running open loop and the map is more than likely just a regular GSR map scaled to 2.3 liters with a fuel injector compensation on it. Prior to bringing it to a tuner you should get it idling and checked over, in efforts to not waste dyno time and money trouble shooting.

Also, your car not having all of the lights functional and the wideband gauge not turning on raises red flags to me that your tucked harness, ground wires, and connections all need to be double checked. A wideband gauge should be setup to a true 12v ignition powered source and a good ground, the analog output wire should then be directly connected to the inputs available from the ECU to enable datalogging.

Dorkenheimer

~~~SOLVED~~~



I was using a 3bar MAP sensor when I should have been using a stock one.

I didn't know a 3bar MAP would not work for my car when I ordered it. This is my first project so I've made a few mistakes like this, but I'm not afraid to admit it! All part of learning. I had a new buddy come over and he told me throw my stock one on. Cranked it over and it fired first try and started idling. It's been so long I forgot my dash lights are actually a bit problematic...after running the car a while, they do come on. Still no climate control lighting, but it just might be dead. I found I was also missing a plug on my heater blower, so that works now too. Word of advice to anyone who's getting frustrated: DON'T QUIT!

#drivermod lol

scottcraft

Videos please!

ShinsenTuner

iTrader: (1)

NOICE!

TracerAcer2.2L

Good to see progress on your build