Katman

damn...that sucks!
I bet its something real dumb and simple too that's being overlooked (this happens all the time)..
At this point I'm stumped..

ihatesilver

oh my god i'm seriously losing my sanity over this car. it's not the main relay either.

Tyler66

not sure if this will help you out but in my buddys car the same sounding problem occured and it ended up being his Crank postion sensor. He would start his car drive it for 20 mins adn then it would just die out.. he turned off the key and truned it back on and it would owrk oggd for a few seconds.. I sugest checking your Crank Postion sensor just to make sure..

Katman

curious...
was your friend getting a CEL code for the crank sensor by chance?

Tyler66

Not 100% sure, if I remember correctly he didn't for some odd reason.. and that was the main reason we couldn't figure out what was wrong.

Dee_SydekicK

hey katman can i BAR my motor if I have a 95 GSR motor in a 98 EK??? i understand that if you don't have a motor that is newer then your car, its not possible. everything is in stock form and functioning like an OBD-2 GSR. I changed the oil pump to hook up a crank sensor and using an OBD-2 ECU. People were saying I can't. LMK

Katman

First off, diggin the avatar.
<<-- Big time Yo Gabba Gabba fan (me and the daughter)

I don't know for a fact that you can pass or not pass using an older than your chassis's year engine. I've never tried to personally BAR a car period, I just know information that I've gathered from reputable sources. But usually the rule of thumb is you want the engine to be the same year as the car or newer and all of the smog equipment and ecu needs to accompany it.

The reason why the 95 engine may not pass is (1) because it IS an older engine than the car (2) may not pass visual inspection (as they may run the serial numbers from the block number below the engine ID stamp).

The best thing to do is call your local REF/BAR station and ask them directly.
You don't need to give up any information about what your doing or what your car has.
Just call anonymously and gain info on this...

ihatesilver

that's part of the dizzy right? i'll have to put in a different one and see.

Katman

there's an external CKF sensor on US OBD2 honda's, right near the crank pulley as seen here (same on D/B/F/H series engines):

ihatesilver

ok so here is my update. i tried out a friends conversion harness, with no luck. i am happy to rule that out, i was concerned that it was defective, or that they sent me the wrong one. next i swapped in a jdm b16 obd1 ecu just to try it. it ran like crap BUT the same problem did not occur. so i found another proper ecu for sale gonna pick it up tonight and try that out tomorrow. if THAT doesn't work, i'll tow/drive it to a shop here that i trust can handle this.

hey thanks man, if it's not the ecu i'll look into it. appreciate your help. someone else mentioned this as well, he posted in this thread that it wouldn't rev properly so i messaged him and asked why//

"THe problem I had is that the CPK sensor was not getting signal all the way back to the ecu. I ran a jumper from the dizzy directly to the ecu and it solved the issue. Must of have a broken wire in the harness somewhere."

Zekers

I think this will be my second project of the summer! Thank you for the info! Keep up the good work.

oddjobb909

Hello.

So I have a 98 gsr which is obd2a and i bought it as a shell to do my first honda project ever. Anyway, i bought a turbo swap from a guy and i think it has an obd2b engine harness. It has an OBD1 dizzy i know that for sure from your diagrams as well as it is already wired with resistor box for the rc 750's. It also has a 3.5 AEM bar sensor wired in already.

Here is the problem i am having. The car starts with the stock p72 ecu in it, doesnt run very well obviously, but it starts. I then hook up the p28 with s200 that i got with the swap, this was tuned for the engine. I have the obd2a to obd1 adapter for the ecu, i plug it in and the car does not start with this ecu, it also will not start with an OBD2a AEM 1020 I have.

Being the first honda i have ever done, actually the first fuel injected car, I am really looking for some help with the wiring issues. There is a plug that is not being utilized on my passenger side shock tower. I posted a picture of it below.

So what i was gathering from this reading is i will either have to get a obd2b harness for my car harness or get an obd2a engine harness? Is that correct?

If i am even right that i have an obd2b engine harness, is there anyway to be definite about this?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to figure this out, i would rather learn something doing this than take it to a shop to do it. Please let me know if you can help.

Thanks
Jim

zexxbo

bump

Katman

Ok...
if your engine came with an OBD2b INTEGRA engine harness, it should be backwards compatible with an OBD2a integra chassis, such as your 98 GSR. There may be 1 or 2 plugs that are not used and I believe the plug in your photo is one of them.

The OBD1 distributor kinda trips me out. Perhaps your engine came with an OBD1 engine harness? Does the wiring for the distributor plugs look modified at all? or do they look like they've never been tampered with?

If you have an OBD2 integra engine harness, it would plug into ALL plugs on the shocktower, there wouldn't be any spare plugs left.

Next thing to check is to see what CEL code(s) you're getting with the P72 ecu and P28, if any. This will help narrow down the problem.

One big reason the car may run like crap is because of the 3.5bar map sensor and possibly the 750cc injectors. Your P72, P28, and 1020 computers may not be tuned/programmed to run with a 3.5b map sensor and 750cc injectors, even though you were told the P28 was tuned for your engine.

Another issue may be the jumper harness you're using. Could be faulty and the reason why the car won't start with the P28 ecu.

Btw, is the P72-GSR ecu OBD1 or OBD2?

oddjobb909

The dizzy kinda looks like it has been spliced into the harness, but in a clean fashion. I have attached some pictures of the dizzy, as well as where it hooks into the main harness. Also I have a attached a pic of the driver side shock tower and where it is spliced for the injectors.

I dont think this is an OBD1 harness right? I thought in your first thread post you mentioned the obd1 harness is a full harness all the way to the ecu, this one has the engine bay harness as well as the car harness. However, if it is an obd1 harness will i be able to make it work with my obd2a car harness? I have looked at it a little and i do not think there in a connector for the CFK sensor either. So perhaps it is an OBD1, there is only that one connector on the driver shock tower that does not plug in, the CFK on the b18c5 block looks as to have been cut, as if it was not needed.

I will have to get a code reader to check any codes, however the CEL is not on when i hook stuff up, again it only cranks and does not start though with any computer other than the p72 (which is an OBD2). I am in the process of finding a usb to 9pin serial connector to hook the AEM up to my computer and try to create a basemap. Oh the joys of learning

By the way, thank you for any and all input you help me out with!

First pic is they dizzy.
second is the shock tower
third is where the wires go into the main harness from the dizzy

Katman

Btw, I noticed the brown colored plug in this photo has nothing plugged into it. Wassup with that? It looks like the coolant temp sensor. Is this sensor still unplugged???

oddjobb909

Ok. So if it is a obd2b harness will it work correctly with the obd2a car harness? Probably not i am guessing.

Ya the CFK sensor is definitely been eliminated, he did not remove it, but he did cut the wires.

The brown connector is for the thermostat. If you look, whoever had this looks like they spliced the wires right there that had the connector for it, I think they were running a manual switch for their fan or something. I am planning on fixing this and using a normal thermostat switch. Although i am more concerned with getting it started etc first.

I think i may just need to swap harnesses and splice everything into the OBD2A harness. I have one here in my shop, I was just hoping that I could get a definite yes or no as to whether or not you thought that was it.

BTW i dont think the cel light is burned out, but i will have to check, im pretty sure it comes on each time i turn the key on and then goes out. I do need an obd reader though and this is a good excuse to buy one i guess haha.

Katman

oddjobb909

ok. I am almost positive it is an obd2b. Reason being is the S200 that it came with was attached to a obd2b to obd1 conversion harness. So, hopefully if i get a basemap of some kind made up it should start alright.

aaron_morris

dude please help me figure out what is wrong with my car, i am dong this exact swap, and i cant get my car started, there is fuel along with spark and it turns over but it wont run. i have the EX vtec harness from a 96-98 civic, i have the 95 obd1 intebgra engine and i dont know where to go from here. i know i have spark in all of my cylinders, but why wont start? please help me out, seems as though you have knowledge in this, oh and btw i did the auto to manual swap also.

Katman

oh, an auto to manual swap eh? I think this is where you're problem lies. There's wiring that needs to be modified right where the auto shifter use to be. You might want to look at this thread to find out what you need to modify exactly:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%5Bfaq%5D-96-00-auto-manual-swap-full-detail-44pics-1337459/

I haven't taken on auto to manual swap wiring before so I can't really help you on that front.

crxrider

just want to thank you for this thread as i was able to repin the dizzy from my z6 into the single plug in my 96. Katman you are a genius sir, if i ever meet you in person i am giving you a big hug and taking you out for a steak dinner.

Katman

your welcome and I might just take you up on that offer...(the steak dinner)

oddjobb909

Well my car is now starting with the EMS 1020 in it, so i dont think that the wiring is really an issue. I think i need to find a basemap for my engine, but having a hard time doing so.

runwitme

ok katman . here's what i got

96 LS long block w/ tranny
manifold w/ tb
shifter n shift linkage
disturbutor and alternator and starter
stock header
ecu
axle
fuel rail and injector
pretty much complete beside the mounts

looking to swap into a 96 civic DX HB 5 speed

already got :
rear tranny bracket part number is 50827-s04-n10
driver side bracket is 11910-p30-000

question is would i need the LS mounts or can i reuse the civic mounts?
and anything else i need?

ive posted a thread and got some good info but just wanted to make sure one last time since ive been reading thru all these pages and i read this and that so im alittle lost .. =D