Eyal 951

Over the past couple months I have had a cel briefly come up 3 times for random misfire. I changed my spark plugs after it came up twice, and i had no issues for nearly a month. The light came up again for the same issue a week or two ago.

I took my car to have the clutch done at a local shop that was recommended by lots of socal s2k owners, and while it was there i asked him to pull the code and check around to see if he can figure anything out.

Before he did any work he pulled the code, and it came out "random misfire cylinder 3 and 4" (I've have all cylinders already before)

When the car came it, it ran and drove fine, you can take it to 9k no issues, only rarely it would idle somewhat unsmooth.

The shop changed the clutch and flywheel and called me to pick it up. When I showed up, he was replacing my coils with spares he had in the shop. He had switch coils 3 and 4 with 1 and 2 to see if the code would come up for 1 and 2 to pinpoint bad coils. He took it for a test run and it drove fine until suddenly it was cutting out on him at 2-3K rpm. He switch to 4 different coils, and I went to drive it around the block, and as soon as I got out of the driveway, i couldnt get the car above 10 mph, it feels like a fuel cut at 2 or 3K rpm. It also idles like it has a big cam in it.

We let it run, pulled codes and reset about 5 times, each time it came up with random misfire, all cylinders (1399 i think it is) except one time we pulled high o2 voltage.

More info:
Restarting the car allows the car to run fine, it seems like closed loop has no issues, sometimes as soon as it goes into open loop, its idling/running terribly, sometimes it runs fine for a while.

Based on research and possibilities, we replaced the following with parts:
Coils (used spares in the shop)
injectors (known good)
MAP (brand new)
o2 sensors (spare used ones he had in the shop, unknown condition)
Checked every connection and censor and they looked good.

The tech was convinced it needed a valve job, otherwise hes stumped. I told him that makes no sense, the issue is obviously electric due to its randomness. Sometimes its there, sometimes it isnt. Restarting the car cures it briefly.

I just ordered a pre cat o2 from the dealer and will have that installed when it comes. The closed loop operation, o2 code, and the fact that the issue seems to be electrical lleads me to beleive its my first step at this point. (even though we tried a used o2 he had int he shop.

After this, I am absolutely stumped and really need help.

The car is 100% stock.

BTW, the new clutch feels excellent.

24boosted

iTrader: (1)

Did you have the same clutch rattle the 01s are known for? I need to have mine changed as it's starting to rattle on decel between 3-4k rpm.

As far as the misfires, you could always take it to Honda and pay the $30-90 (varies upon dealership) they charge for diagnostics to find out. GL

Eyal 951

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 24boosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you have the same clutch rattle the 01s are known for? I need to have mine changed as it's starting to rattle on decel between 3-4k rpm.

As far as the misfires, you could always take it to Honda and pay the $30-90 (varies upon dealership) they charge for diagnostics to find out. GL </TD></TR></TABLE>

I may end up doing that, however I don't think the techs are gonna be able to do anymore then has already been done without just throwing parts at it at this point.

The clutch was original so yes, it did have the decel noise.

i2ishift

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eyal 951 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I may end up doing that, however I don't think the techs are gonna be able to do anymore then has already been done without just throwing parts at it at this point.

The clutch was original so yes, it did have the decel noise. </TD></TR></TABLE>

There is a big difference between an independent shop versus a dealership. Dealerships have access to the "HDS" that are able to pull codes that may not show up on a generic scanner. I talk from experience....my dad owns an independent and i work at a dealership. Generic scanners will give you the "required" OBD2 codes but the proprietary HDS may give a fault for the actual component that is failing or at least freeze frame data to allow diagnosis. not only that but proprietary diagnositic tools allow for many other functions such as "actuations"...the list goes on.

Eyal 951

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i2ishift &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There is a big difference between an independent shop versus a dealership. Dealerships have access to the "HDS" that are able to pull codes that may not show up on a generic scanner. I talk from experience....my dad owns an independent and i work at a dealership. Generic scanners will give you the "required" OBD2 codes but the proprietary HDS may give a fault for the actual component that is failing or at least freeze frame data to allow diagnosis. not only that but proprietary diagnositic tools allow for many other functions such as "actuations"...the list goes on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good to know, thanks. Its going to the dealer if the bew o2 sensor and replacing the cam position seosors with spares int he shop dont fix it. I'm picking it up tomorrow. Would the dealers system be able to detect a bad ecu, if thats the issue?

White Smoke

What do you have your plugs gaped at? Did the shop ever try redoing or replacing the plugs? I would not recommend taking it to the dealer, and they are not the only ones with advanced scanners. However, don't go buy the text on the generic OBD2 scanner. Take the P code, and look it up in the FSM.

Eyal 951

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you have your plugs gaped at? Did the shop ever try redoing or replacing the plugs? I would not recommend taking it to the dealer, and they are not the only ones with advanced scanners. However, don't go buy the text on the generic OBD2 scanner. Take the P code, and look it up in the FSM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The plugs were pre gapped to OEM spec. The plugs are the OEM platinum updated NGK part number, and were changed less then 2 months ago.

White Smoke

Checking them to be sure can't hurt... Do you have an AFC installed in your car? Has there ever been one installed. I am assuming no but wanted to be sure.

Eyal 951

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Checking them to be sure can't hurt... Do you have an AFC installed in your car? Has there ever been one installed. I am assuming no but wanted to be sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As far as i know there has not been. The car was owned but a retired school teacher before me.

i2ishift

White Smoke....what kind of advance scanners are you talking about? i'm just curious and by no way doubting you.

Jaspergold

Did you figure out what was wrong with it
having same issues