AnthraxVX

i totaled up my engine rebuild from majestic honda as stock, parts would cost around 1k, thats for rings, rod bearings, main bearings, crank pulsar plate, thrust washers, block gasket kit, head gaskit kit, intake valves, exhaust valves, intake valves, retainers/springs/seats as well. hoping my pistons/rods/cams/crank are good. am i missing anything?

i was huge into aftermarket on my b18c1 in my DA integra, but not sure about the f20c, i think the parts are better than aftermarket probably so i would stick with them, are there better parts than stock for the same price as majestic honda? or would i spend more? and if there are, what are the brands for each area? like supertech valves/cp piston rings etc?

thanks for the help, just not used to working on f20c's i wouldnt mind getting some more performance if i can do it for about the same price or a little more. thanks

dagle

iTrader: (1)

the stuff you listed will be stuff that you'd replace anyways, so if you're trying to stay at that budget you priced out, I'd say to stay OEM.

JUSTINTHECOASTI

with 3k you might be able to squeeze out a cheap build pending the parts you use and how much work needs to be done to the block, etc.

rh76pogi

What's the reasoning behind the need for a rebuild? Burning Oil, High Mileage, Hurt Motor or you think it's just needs it (nothing wrong with that)?

There is a lot to it than just the parts. Machine Work, Assembly, Proper Clearance, Proper Engine Break-in (seating of rings) etc, etc.... And, if you really want to max out performance, tuning (EMS+Tunner) has to be considered as well.
With the F20, The key is trying find someone that could hone, or depending on the condition of your cylinder wall, bore the cylinder to accommodate an oversized piston.
I think in socal, only GE is the only company that could properly get the job done.

If I were you, this is what I would do....
Short block, I would send the block to Inline pro and utilize their OEM Sleeve, Stock Rod build. Check out their website for more info.
This is a must, I would upgrade to a 4 hole feed banjo bolt if you still have the 2 hole banjo.

Cylinder Head, I would send it to a reputable shop, get it inspected plus a valve job. Since you're from SD, get a hold of TB from TBMotorworx, I send a couple of heads to him before and was happy with the result. And, only replace what you need.
This is also a must for ap1's, upgrade your retainers to an AP2 (If on a budget just upgrade the intake side).

And, if you were going to invest that kind of money in your ride, in my opinion, it would be a waste of time and money if you were not going to get it tuned. Locating a reputable tuner would be at the top of my list. Follow his advise as to what EMS he things you should get.

Also, You might want to consider sending your injectors to be professionally cleaned. Companies like RC and WitchHunt (I've used a couple of times) offers this kind of service.

Ron

dagle

iTrader: (1)

Very good advice from Ron, but not everything listed as a 'must' is a 'must'. It depends on how long you want your motor to run, what risks you're willing to take, and how mechanically inclined you (OP) are. Not everything requires a rebuild just for the sake of the motor being apart, though in the long run it's not a bad decision.

For instance, if you spun a rod bearing (it sounds like it from the OP) you may not need to replace anything except for the bearings themselves. It really depends on the budget/goals, but Ron's suggestion is definitely the right way to do things. The other ways work too, but not as optimally and/or at a compromise.

rh76pogi

Everything I posted is not a "must". Let me clarify, in my opinion, the "must" are the 4 hole banjo bolts and AP2 retainer upgrade.
The two hole banjo and the AP1 retainers are KNOWN to fail in an F20C.

I agree with Dagle, only replace what you need. With that being said, 99% of people here, including my self, does not have the proper tools/equipment to diagnose or make a determination if a certain part needs to be replaced, or still within its acceptable tolerance.

AnthraxVX

thanks for the advice, my car runs ok it just has 150k and is starting to feel really rough when i rev compared to when i got i at 60k. ive rebuilt a lot of bseries motors so i know how to do it but your suggestions are great because im not familiar with this motor that much, especially would never known about the banjo bolt and the retainers, my goal is to get everything running like new so i will get the engine out, replace the clutch, change out everything i need to, get it honed decked etc, new water pump, get the head cleaned and reasembled. what i was debating was should i put some aftermarket parts while im at it to gain some performance or are honda parts better than the aftermarket stuff in the same price. thanks

rh76pogi

You're welcome. Also, you have to use the ap2 keepers for the retainers.

Mahle Pistons are the only after market piston that will work with the FRM sleeves. However, in order to use these with the stock rods some modifications have to be made.
Read this http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produc...20BULLETIN.pdf
In the end, the modifications will probably cost the same as buying an aftermarket rods.

I haven't priced an oem piston and rings, but I would assume it's cheaper than aftermarket piston and rods combined.

The advantage in going the aftermarket route is weight savings, not sure how much, plus you have the abilty to run whatever compression ratio you please.

If your on a budget, it will probably be cheaper to go with oem parts.

I don't want to sound like a broken record, but you really should think about getting an ems and getting it tuned. It would make the car 10x more enjoyable. IMO, would be the best aftermarket part that you would purchase.

Ron

JDogg

If you need a rebuild then your pistons are not going to work, you will need oversize.

I have torn down quite a few f20c's and none have ever been good enough to back with std bore pistons.

Mahle pistons are cheaper than OE pistons by a couple hundred bux, however they will not work with stock rods, but no aftermarket piston will so that's to be expected.