JasonST

Ok, so I REALLY REALLY wanna get this fixed, I've had this problem for months, and 3 days ago it randomly got better/ kinda went away, the problem was, around 6500 rpms the tach would bounce up going straight down to 9.5k rpms, and drop out of vtec, it was hitting the 6500 rpms rev limiter, like if the car's in safe mode. I had it datalogged a while back and the guy said that the ecu was reading 0 rpms around 6500 rpms so that's why it dropped out of vtec and just cut out and wouldn't let me rev higher. Now, for no reason, it's letting me rev above 6500 rpms most the time, but the tach bounces straight down so I'm guessing it's still reading 0 rpms but for some reason letting me rev past it most the time, the interesting thing is when it cuts out the CEL turns off, it's usually on cause the EGR isn't hooked up since this is in an integra. But every time it doesn't cut out the CEL will stay on and the tach still goes straight down to 9.5k rpms. What could it be? I replaced all the igniton stuff, dizzy, plugs, tested wires they're fine! Tried several diff ignitors/coils. And it's not a tachometer only problem cause the ecu reads 0 rpms too, b4 it goes to the tach, but when the tach bounces straight down and reads 0, the engine revs fine! No bogging or any other problems. Only cel is EGR, using stock p13, obd1 h22a in an integra.

Chuckles99SH

If your CEL is on, your ECU should be in "safe-mode" that will pull timing and set your engine cut off to 6500.. so you dont expletive up anything until you get the problem with the CEL fixed. Trying to force your motor to rev above 6500 isnt doing your motor any favors. Get your ERG working, get the sensors for the ERG working and stop raping your motor. You aren't going to be able to magically rev your motor to fix the problem, fix it get it running proper.. then abuse it.

EJ1 wilcox

It's your ignitor.

It's happened to me a few times. If your ignitor is going out the tach will bounce all over the damn place even if the RPMs are holding steady.

Grab up a new ignitor (or just get a new dizzy) and the problem will be solved.

JasonST

I swear I'm ganna shoot myself if this keeps up... *sigh*... Ok, I replaced my ignitor 3 FRICKIN times, and also put a whole new dizzy on there, already said that in my post. Also, the egr cel will not put the ecu in limp mode, to prove it, I still have the same problem even when it's not on, the egr code only comes on during cruising cause the egr only is on at low cruising speeds and at warm temp. I'm not raping my motor, it's losing its rpm signal somewhere or some other problem. Hey chuckles plz only post info if u KNOW what ur talking about. Thanks. Bump.

EJ1 wilcox

Sorry, I didn't get that far in your post.

What kind of wiring did you use when you wired in the swap? I've heard of this happening when the wires to the dizzy weren't shielded like they are from the factory. Depending on what gauge and quality of wiring you used you could be getting interfearances somewhere along the wire.

I would trace your wiring, make sure it's the correct gauge and shielded correctly, and then go from there.

That's all I can think of right now.

bluedlude

is it a bad TPS sensor?

JasonST

Thanks ej1 wilcox that sounded pretty logical I'll check that out, I'm using a hasport wiring harness, it's actually the stock h22 harness but they rewired it to work with my car, at the time I didn't know crap about wiring so I sent it in to Hasport for them to do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it a bad TPS sensor?</TD></TR></TABLE> I don't think I have a bad tps, I replaced it when I first did the swap and calibrated it correctly and as far as I know it's been working fine.

lostkoz

did hasport do a clean job on your harness.

JasonST

They seamed to do a pretty decent job. They rewrapped all the wire, the only annoying thing is some of the wire colors don't match up, for extra harness stuff they used wires that don't match in the helms manual, but other than that it's pretyt good. Which wire should I trace? The blue ignition wire coming from the dizzy?

lostkoz

I couldn't tell you on the wire I wanted to how hasport did for you I have the same setup was thinking of sending my harness there. but like wilcox was saying about the wire size since hasport did it i would think it's fine. and to keep this in my topics

EJ1 wilcox

I would think that hasport would have done a good job on your harness, so that's probably not the problem.

Hmm.... it's hard to trouble shoot these types of things over the internet, but I'll keep thinking about it.

prelittlelude

ok lets try and make sense of this. first some info

the blue wire that everyone is talking about is actually an RPM OUTPUT from the ignitor. The ignitor takes it input from pin A21 on the ecu. this is a yel/grn wire. which means yellow with green stripe.

you tacometer is hooked to the blue wire which is actually an output from the ignitor. the ignitor is taking its commands from the ECU on the yellow/green wire.

so there could be a couple things going on. you said you have replaces your dizzy and ignitopr multiple times. this means that it can either be a ecu problem or a wiring problem. replacing the dizzy rules out the TDC/CYP/CKP sensors as being bad. but the wires themselves may be. On the prelude the tdc sensor is wht/blu on b14 and orn/blu on b13. cyp wht on b12 and orn on b11. ckp is blu/yel on b16 and LT blu/grn on pin b15.

since your not throwing a code this makes it likely that the ecu is getting input ok from the 3 dizzy sensors. If it were me though i would check continuity between the plugs at the dizzy and at each corresponding ecu pin

next woould look at the yel/grn wire on a21 which is the ignitor controller. all the while i would be jiggling wires to trya nd find a intermitant connection

next you might want to try replacing the coil. it could very well be a dyning coil causing the ignitor to flip out.

also make sure the ignitor has a good ground. there is a pin that needs to be grounded, at higher revs if this vibrated it could cause your problem.

these are all the things i would do. after doing everything you should run into your problem somewhere

JasonST

Thanks for all the info prelittledude. So I took my multimeter and checked connectivity between the ignitor input wire from a21 all the way to the ignitor and it got a perfect connection. I tried to blue tach wire and that had a perfect connection too. Then I decided to screw around and check connetion between grounds. I don't know if this means anything or not but I found a slight connection between the ignitor wire a21 and the grounds (engine/chassy). Is this wire suppose to be grounded? Also, I've been switching around a few different ignition coils and still no luck. Hey what pin were u talking about that grounds the ignitor that could cause my problem when the engine vibrates? I haven't checked the wires for the 3 sensors yet, that's ganna take me awhile just cause the chords on my meter are really small so I gotta take the connectors off and check the connectivity at a bunch of spots. Thanks for the help!

JasonST

well I think I finally fixed the problem after MONTHS AND MONTHS. I don't think this makes sense but this is what I did. I checked all the connections today of the ignition wires, they all seamed fine. I also tried checking everything I could, checked all the grounds, cleaned the thermostat ground, and the big thing I noticed was a CRAP load of acid build up on my positive terminal. I've had a few problems with it in the past where it wouldn't start a few times and the positive terminal would snap, but I didn't see the build up because I have a big red rubber flap around the terminal covering it, so anyways I cleaned it off with some baking soda and water, and put everything back on, and later when I went out driving it's been revving fine, took i all the way to 7400 rpms and NO tach bouncing which is a first! So I hope my problem is fixed, and not just temporarily fixed somehow and going to come back soon.