MyVtec8yourV8

As if i didnt have enough problems.. I was driving the other day and when i came up to a stop sign my newly built motor was knocking. I thought it was the water pump so i spent the day pulled the old water pump and put a new one in. I wanted to see if i could isolate the noise so i set the timing belt and started it up with no P/S pump, no alternator, no ballancing shafts. But the noise is still there. i put it back together and took a stethascope to it and its in the bottom end.......... Rod KNOCK..

hOndafienD 04

thats sucks.....take it to whomever put the motor together...

satan_srv

did you use new bearings? OEM?

98TypeSH

this is why you are supposed to tune ASAP. no need to do a long break in period.

MyVtec8yourV8

Yes the bearings were new. I talked to the guy who did the motor work Advanced engineering. He said it is possible that my chipped unballanced crank pully may have vibrated the rod bearings loose.. Anyway this is yet another time i got o pull the motor this sucks ***....

hOndafienD 04

chipped unbalanced crank pulley would do this?

mgags7

a chip in the crank would definitely ruin bearings, it will send everything out of balance....

im surprised you didnt balance everything for a full build.....

PrecisionH23a

I built the motor for Jeff. He used a crank pulley that was BEAT up to hell and back. Upon building the engine I told him DO NOT use this crank pulley. He did though and cut a few corners because he was on a budget build and in a hurry.

Later Jeff called me saying he had a tapping noise. If you guys do a search you'll see the thread where 2 of his flywheel bolts backed out. Due to the extreme amount of harmonic vibrations that transferred through the crankshaft from using such an unbalanced pulley the bolts backed out. Now.... flywheel bolts have a torque rating of 81ftlbs. If the vibrations can back out a bolt with that amount of torque then backing out a rod bolt that has a 28-31ftlb torque will be given. All new OEM bearings were used upon this build. I also highly recommended having the crank balanced but Jeff was on a bit of a budget so he chose not to do that.

I've spoken to Jeff about this unfortunate instance and we are in the process of discussing a full rebuild while he is away for a few months. Like I told Jeff on the phone, I don't mean to sound like a ******** but you guys CANNOT cut corners when building an engine. You may save a few hundred in the beginning but you'll pay for it in the end. It's a hard lesson to learn.

By the way Jeff, its AV Engineering

Hawkze_2.3

Daaaammnnn... Cutting corners= =lesson learned

Altilude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I built the motor for Jeff. He used a crank pulley that was BEAT up to hell and back. Upon building the engine I told him DO NOT use this crank pulley. He did though and cut a few corners because he was on a budget build and in a hurry.

Later Jeff called me saying he had a tapping noise. If you guys do a search you'll see the thread where 2 of his flywheel bolts backed out. Due to the extreme amount of harmonic vibrations that transferred through the crankshaft from using such an unbalanced pulley the bolts backed out. Now.... flywheel bolts have a torque rating of 81ftlbs. If the vibrations can back out a bolt with that amount of torque then backing out a rod bolt that has a 28-31ftlb torque will be given. All new OEM bearings were used upon this build. I also highly recommended having the crank balanced but Jeff was on a bit of a budget so he chose not to do that.

I've spoken to Jeff about this unfortunate instance and we are in the process of discussing a full rebuild while he is away for a few months. Like I told Jeff on the phone, I don't mean to sound like a ******** but you guys CANNOT cut corners when building an engine. You may save a few hundred in the beginning but you'll pay for it in the end. It's a hard lesson to learn.

By the way Jeff, its AV Engineering </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think it's commendable you responding to this thread. (: obviously there are two sides to every story and I think it's great that you and the customer are going to work this out. I don't think anyone is really trying to point blame or anything, but it's great that we can all learn from stuff like this.

Sabbotage

&lt;-----glad he bought a new crank pulley instead of using the chipped one that came with the swap

wow.....i never realized how much a damaged crank pulley can wreck an engine

hOndafienD 04

would a lightweight crank pulley cause this also? cuz if so im throwing my oem one back on.

MyVtec8yourV8

Sorry anthony i was gettign your company name wrong..

But yes he and I are tryign to work things out.. I know i cut corners he did advise me against it.
the pully was pritty chewed up and he told me not to use it but for lack of time i did use it. Here is the pict of it.


He also told me to use loctite on the crank bolts. YEA i forgot to... So that could also be the reason the bolts backed out of the flywheel HERE is the pict of that.

i pulled the tranny put new flywheel bolts in and put a NEW pully on and drove the car for about 1000 miles and had it tuned on the dyno at 12.6 ish(Anthonty informed me that its to lean so i will need to richen it up. a week later is when the knock started. its not a loud knock its a sort of tingy sound that gets faster when you give it gas. for all i know it could be the head and not rod bolts.. However i had 2 different mechanics check my car out with a stethascope and they both said its coming from the bottom end and sounded to be a rod knock. when i changed the oil yesterday i noticed NO meatle shavings or anything in the oil. So anyway.. Anthony and i will work something out.

hOndafienD 04

i remember that thread about the flywheel bolts.....will a lightweight crank pulley cause such things as these?

MyVtec8yourV8

I personaly dont think so.. BUT the OEM pully was balanced by the factory for the motor. an aftermarket one was not.... i think you would be ok MANY people run them... BUT again i think it was the lack of loctite.... Ask Anthony he is more knowlagable than me about h22

hOndafienD 04

thanx....just for reffrence....rods bolts take loctite or no?

MyVtec8yourV8

nope..

hOndafienD 04

thats what i thought but now i know for sure thanx

Sabbotage

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hOndafienD 04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will a lightweight crank pulley cause such things as these?</TD></TR></TABLE>

bump cuz i wanna know too

PrettyLude

lightweight pulleys are not worth it, premature failure to oil pumps, stock is fine, if your going for high hp go with the fluidamper

hOndafienD 04

i dont see how a pulley can lead to premature oil pump failure....can some1 please explain this.

MyVtec8yourV8

its all about harmonics and vibration...
a stock pully is ballanced at the factory along with the crank and what not... when you get an aftermarket pully you MAY (not defintly) get vibrations due to the balance not being correct...
maby someoen else can explain it better but thats my defination
also a aftermarket power steering pump pully or what ever would be good but the crank pully bolts directly to the crank...

PrettyLude

pretty well explained, try pming arturbo he can shine some light on this subject

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

any updates ? i have the same problem right now =T