My Fully Build H22 Project
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My Fully Build H22 Project
Hey everyone.
Im doing a fully built h22 project in my 92 prelude si 4ws. Ill post detailed pictures from day one to finish on the build and everything that i do.
I was originally going to go h23 vtec until i saw a steal of a deal on an h22.
Any input and advice, ideas as i go would be greatly appreciated!
So here is the parts list that i have so far.
HEAD:
Crower cams
Crower adjustable cam gears
Crower 1mm oversized valves (intake and exhaust)
Crower titanium retainers
Crower valve springs
3-angle valve job
BLOCK:
Darton M.I.D sleeves
J.E. 9:1 87 mm pistons
Crower rods
ACL bearings
ARP head bolts
Cometic head gasket
Balanced & polished crankshaft
Balance shafts deleted
ECU / Fuel / other
AEM Plug & Play ECU 1040U
AEM wideband O2 sensor
AEM Electronic boost solenoid
GM 3-Bar MAP
Denzo 680 cc Injectors (Selling, upgrading to 1200cc)
Vortech fuel rail
Vision fuel pressure regulator w/ gauge
Nology external ignition control module
Nology Coil
Nology Capacitor wires
Nology distributor cap
Nology distributor rotor
Skunk2 70mm throttle body
Venom plenum intake manifold
Turbo, manifolds and exaust:
LoveFab custom turbo manifold
Garrett GT35R turbo
8” X 30” X 4” intercooler
Intercooler piping, T-clamps, and couplers
Custom steel breaded oil and coolant turbo lines
Greddy stiff spring blow off valve (Huge)
Greddy catch can
Greddy oil filter relocation kit
TIAL 40 mm waste gate (external)
Custom 3 1/2” down pipe
Custom waste gate external vent pipe
Fluidyne (Half) aluminum radiator
Flex-A-Lite radiator fan
Clutch / Flywheel:
ACT Extreme clutch pressure plate
ACT Extreme full surface clutch disc
ACT 8 lb flywheel
(Crank, flywheel and pressure plate balanced as assembly)
Transmission:
Quaife LSD
Gator Axles
Suspension / Tires / Brakes
Tokico HP Gas struts.
Eibach ProKit Springs with 1.2" drop in front, 1" drop in rear.
225/40/18 Roja Racing rims - like 9 years old don't make anymore.
Cheap Drilled / Slotted rotors
Stock Calipers and brake system.
I got really really lucky on how cheap i got everything for...... less than half price.
Next Additions:
Transmission:
Syncrotech Carbon Syncros and final drive, adjusted gear ratio
"maybe" a better clutch
Exaust:
Custom exaust from downpipe back.
Engine:
Boring to 89mm.
Body Work:
LAST
Suspension / Tires / Brakes:
I HAVE NO IDEA.. i need new..smaller rims, i love the look of 225/40/18's on the car and they fit absolutely perfectly... spare tire thats .25 bigger rubs on car. But i need smaller ones for performance reasons...
I am looking at K-Sport shocks and coil-overs but im not sure what to go with.. i definitely need to beef-up the suspension (that saying looks weird spelled out...ha)
Ill have the first pictures up later tonight.
Later Tonight: OK here are the pictures
When i first got it:
what u cant see in pics, yellow overspray EVERYWHERE.. broken windshield, motor only lasted about 4,000 miles and threw a rod so replaced that.. during bad rain hit deep puddle and sucked water in intake vaporlocked... so i got another motor, bad water pump, master cylinder, slave cylinder, a/c didnt work (pulled it out anyway) bad radiator, power steering didnt work, everything to do with steering was bad, front end alignment, 4WS doesnt work. idk if i want it to??? most people say they dont like it, ABS doesnt work, most sensors broken, exhaust was shot, interior was horrifying, shocks bad, every single ball joint and cv joints, tires were a little dry rotted, wheel hub rusted and one stub broken off on one wheel, wiring issues, a million missing screws and bolts for entire car, windows and power locks not working, no seals for the doors or jams or anywhere..transmission syncro 2nd and 3rd bad...replaced to good transmission.. but differential went.. so this time i did it myself.. pulled off transmission and no oil was in it... they didnt put oil in it. Put new one on with oil. Differential went on that one too!!!!!! i let car sit for months fed up with it...rode my bike and got rides lol... i finally put another one in and its been good ever since. - about 9/2009 i put last one in. ...i know there is more but i think you get the picture.
2/28/07 - 163,000 miles. ( 17 at the time, i didn't even know how to do oil change at this time.. soon to quickly change! )
1/6/08
The above picture is almost current.. The crack on bottom was from mechanic giving me front end alignment.. i didnt catch it till a day later and fought with him...he got away with it and didn't pay... that _____ ____ ___ ______ ____!!! There are two cracks at the top from being towed when i vapor locked the motor.. i was there when he pulled the car onto the flatbed... but i wasn't there when he took it off and that's when he cracked it up.. cable pulled up on front piece and cracked it. i had no proof so once more..got away with it.. "sigh"...people sometimes...make me so mad..don't know the date but both happened like... idk beginning of 2009 sometime.
Just last week, 12/28/09.. cruising on the highway and no one in front of me for as far as i can see except for one guy in the other lane next to me on the right... the car switches lanes and then almost immediately after slams on the brakes right in front of me..like pedal to the metal smoking tires not even like 2 car lengths in front of me.. his brakes were way better than my old calipers so it was either slam into him or go off the road into the big grass median, there was a car right next to me...so i went off the road into the grass... managed to keep control but of course braking doesn't really work to well sliding around on grass and dirt.. i dont know how fast but i was prob going like 50 or so.. there was a drop off right in front of me for a big drain and i turned doing a 180 and stopping just short...whew.. checked the damage.. not too bad.. i fiberglassed the cracks in the front to get repainted but they were all broken again and then the back bumper now has a big crack in it and was almost ripped off. Repairable but...wtf was that guys problem... there was NO REASON TO DO THAT!!!!! of course i don't have a license plate or anything to catch the guy... i have to tell you.. i thought people in Daytona Beach, florida where ive lived my whole life drive bad.... but that's not the case at all.. they just drive slow! been here for 4 months and i have to say....People in North Carolina DRIVE BAD!.... ill put some pics up later tonight of it..
Motor Pics:
Interesting picture.. as u see cylinder 2 had issues and also look at bottom of head, its clean for cylinder 2... hmmm.
As you can see cylinder 2, but doesn't matter since im boring out and going with custom pistons. The "scratches" you see are actually not grooved into the wall, its aluminum from the piston
i just hit 181,000 miles!!!!!! 1/12/2010 so that is... 18,000 in 3 years lol... and 6k of those in past 3 months.
Im doing a fully built h22 project in my 92 prelude si 4ws. Ill post detailed pictures from day one to finish on the build and everything that i do.
I was originally going to go h23 vtec until i saw a steal of a deal on an h22.
Any input and advice, ideas as i go would be greatly appreciated!
So here is the parts list that i have so far.
HEAD:
Crower cams
Crower adjustable cam gears
Crower 1mm oversized valves (intake and exhaust)
Crower titanium retainers
Crower valve springs
3-angle valve job
BLOCK:
Darton M.I.D sleeves
J.E. 9:1 87 mm pistons
Crower rods
ACL bearings
ARP head bolts
Cometic head gasket
Balanced & polished crankshaft
Balance shafts deleted
ECU / Fuel / other
AEM Plug & Play ECU 1040U
AEM wideband O2 sensor
AEM Electronic boost solenoid
GM 3-Bar MAP
Denzo 680 cc Injectors (Selling, upgrading to 1200cc)
Vortech fuel rail
Vision fuel pressure regulator w/ gauge
Nology external ignition control module
Nology Coil
Nology Capacitor wires
Nology distributor cap
Nology distributor rotor
Skunk2 70mm throttle body
Venom plenum intake manifold
Turbo, manifolds and exaust:
LoveFab custom turbo manifold
Garrett GT35R turbo
8” X 30” X 4” intercooler
Intercooler piping, T-clamps, and couplers
Custom steel breaded oil and coolant turbo lines
Greddy stiff spring blow off valve (Huge)
Greddy catch can
Greddy oil filter relocation kit
TIAL 40 mm waste gate (external)
Custom 3 1/2” down pipe
Custom waste gate external vent pipe
Fluidyne (Half) aluminum radiator
Flex-A-Lite radiator fan
Clutch / Flywheel:
ACT Extreme clutch pressure plate
ACT Extreme full surface clutch disc
ACT 8 lb flywheel
(Crank, flywheel and pressure plate balanced as assembly)
Transmission:
Quaife LSD
Gator Axles
Suspension / Tires / Brakes
Tokico HP Gas struts.
Eibach ProKit Springs with 1.2" drop in front, 1" drop in rear.
225/40/18 Roja Racing rims - like 9 years old don't make anymore.
Cheap Drilled / Slotted rotors
Stock Calipers and brake system.
I got really really lucky on how cheap i got everything for...... less than half price.
Next Additions:
Transmission:
Syncrotech Carbon Syncros and final drive, adjusted gear ratio
"maybe" a better clutch
Exaust:
Custom exaust from downpipe back.
Engine:
Boring to 89mm.
Body Work:
LAST
Suspension / Tires / Brakes:
I HAVE NO IDEA.. i need new..smaller rims, i love the look of 225/40/18's on the car and they fit absolutely perfectly... spare tire thats .25 bigger rubs on car. But i need smaller ones for performance reasons...
I am looking at K-Sport shocks and coil-overs but im not sure what to go with.. i definitely need to beef-up the suspension (that saying looks weird spelled out...ha)
Ill have the first pictures up later tonight.
Later Tonight: OK here are the pictures
When i first got it:
what u cant see in pics, yellow overspray EVERYWHERE.. broken windshield, motor only lasted about 4,000 miles and threw a rod so replaced that.. during bad rain hit deep puddle and sucked water in intake vaporlocked... so i got another motor, bad water pump, master cylinder, slave cylinder, a/c didnt work (pulled it out anyway) bad radiator, power steering didnt work, everything to do with steering was bad, front end alignment, 4WS doesnt work. idk if i want it to??? most people say they dont like it, ABS doesnt work, most sensors broken, exhaust was shot, interior was horrifying, shocks bad, every single ball joint and cv joints, tires were a little dry rotted, wheel hub rusted and one stub broken off on one wheel, wiring issues, a million missing screws and bolts for entire car, windows and power locks not working, no seals for the doors or jams or anywhere..transmission syncro 2nd and 3rd bad...replaced to good transmission.. but differential went.. so this time i did it myself.. pulled off transmission and no oil was in it... they didnt put oil in it. Put new one on with oil. Differential went on that one too!!!!!! i let car sit for months fed up with it...rode my bike and got rides lol... i finally put another one in and its been good ever since. - about 9/2009 i put last one in. ...i know there is more but i think you get the picture.
2/28/07 - 163,000 miles. ( 17 at the time, i didn't even know how to do oil change at this time.. soon to quickly change! )
1/6/08
The above picture is almost current.. The crack on bottom was from mechanic giving me front end alignment.. i didnt catch it till a day later and fought with him...he got away with it and didn't pay... that _____ ____ ___ ______ ____!!! There are two cracks at the top from being towed when i vapor locked the motor.. i was there when he pulled the car onto the flatbed... but i wasn't there when he took it off and that's when he cracked it up.. cable pulled up on front piece and cracked it. i had no proof so once more..got away with it.. "sigh"...people sometimes...make me so mad..don't know the date but both happened like... idk beginning of 2009 sometime.
Just last week, 12/28/09.. cruising on the highway and no one in front of me for as far as i can see except for one guy in the other lane next to me on the right... the car switches lanes and then almost immediately after slams on the brakes right in front of me..like pedal to the metal smoking tires not even like 2 car lengths in front of me.. his brakes were way better than my old calipers so it was either slam into him or go off the road into the big grass median, there was a car right next to me...so i went off the road into the grass... managed to keep control but of course braking doesn't really work to well sliding around on grass and dirt.. i dont know how fast but i was prob going like 50 or so.. there was a drop off right in front of me for a big drain and i turned doing a 180 and stopping just short...whew.. checked the damage.. not too bad.. i fiberglassed the cracks in the front to get repainted but they were all broken again and then the back bumper now has a big crack in it and was almost ripped off. Repairable but...wtf was that guys problem... there was NO REASON TO DO THAT!!!!! of course i don't have a license plate or anything to catch the guy... i have to tell you.. i thought people in Daytona Beach, florida where ive lived my whole life drive bad.... but that's not the case at all.. they just drive slow! been here for 4 months and i have to say....People in North Carolina DRIVE BAD!.... ill put some pics up later tonight of it..
Motor Pics:
Interesting picture.. as u see cylinder 2 had issues and also look at bottom of head, its clean for cylinder 2... hmmm.
As you can see cylinder 2, but doesn't matter since im boring out and going with custom pistons. The "scratches" you see are actually not grooved into the wall, its aluminum from the piston
i just hit 181,000 miles!!!!!! 1/12/2010 so that is... 18,000 in 3 years lol... and 6k of those in past 3 months.
Last edited by xelocity; 01-20-2010 at 10:52 AM.
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Re: My Fully Build H22 Project
I thought their's was a 2.7 with a 93x102
Is the OP ready to spend $20k on a motor?
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Re: My Fully Build H22 Project
Original Poster
Personally I think you're getting in way over your head. Is this going to be a Pro-Competition Level Drag Car?
For reference, Steph Papadakis was only using a 2.5L with about 800whp and a violently custom setup, and owned every FWD record for 1/2 a decade.
I think a nice 89x95/97 build would suit you just fine.
Personally I think you're getting in way over your head. Is this going to be a Pro-Competition Level Drag Car?
For reference, Steph Papadakis was only using a 2.5L with about 800whp and a violently custom setup, and owned every FWD record for 1/2 a decade.
I think a nice 89x95/97 build would suit you just fine.
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Re: My Fully Build H22 Project
Oh. hah.
its definitely not going to cost 20k to build..i haven't even spent over 4 so far. i have a couple good friends helping me with the build, thank you guys!!! and yea.. i may be but i may as well do it right the first time, and no its not going to be a competition drag car. Its my first build and its what i want so im going for it.
its definitely not going to cost 20k to build..i haven't even spent over 4 so far. i have a couple good friends helping me with the build, thank you guys!!! and yea.. i may be but i may as well do it right the first time, and no its not going to be a competition drag car. Its my first build and its what i want so im going for it.
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Re: My Fully Build H22 Project
Basic 89mm sleeving with an H23 or F23 crank will be more than enough.
I wouldn't want anything bigger than 89mm for Boost. If you have an issue, you can still do a couple rebuilds without re-sleeving. 89.5-90mm
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Re: My Fully Build H22 Project
bore it out as least as you can. 93mm pistons = paper thin cylinder walls + boost = not good.
You can get great numbers from a h22 with the stock bore and stock stroke......trust me.
But if you want to do it, all power to you. Just trying to save you some $$$.
You can get great numbers from a h22 with the stock bore and stock stroke......trust me.
But if you want to do it, all power to you. Just trying to save you some $$$.
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Re: My Fully Build H22 Project
IMO anything above a 90mm bore is for Champion Builders.(As it needs to be offset bore)
OP; Trust me, an H24 will suit you just fine. Thats what the few 10sec Prelude owners here are running. I can't see going for all-out displacement on a motor that will see Boost. Now if you were planning to build a 350-400whp N/A setup, I'd say go for it.
Just for reference, you can plan on paying $3-5k for the crank alone. A *NEW* H22/H23/F23 crank can be had from Honda for $5-700'ish.
Almost everything you need for this build will have to be custom.
#19
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Re: My Fully Build H22 Project
You can also add a $5,000 Dogbox transmission to this build if you ever plan to REALLY use the power you're going to make, toss in some $1k+ axles, $1k+ clutch......and Well, you can see.
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Re: My Fully Build H22 Project
Little rough, but probably very true.
IMO anything above a 90mm bore is for Champion Builders.(As it needs to be offset bore)
OP; Trust me, an H24 will suit you just fine. Thats what the few 10sec Prelude owners here are running. I can't see going for all-out displacement on a motor that will see Boost. Now if you were planning to build a 350-400whp N/A setup, I'd say go for it.
Just for reference, you can plan on paying $3-5k for the crank alone. A *NEW* H22/H23/F23 crank can be had from Honda for $5-700'ish.
Almost everything you need for this build will have to be custom.
IMO anything above a 90mm bore is for Champion Builders.(As it needs to be offset bore)
OP; Trust me, an H24 will suit you just fine. Thats what the few 10sec Prelude owners here are running. I can't see going for all-out displacement on a motor that will see Boost. Now if you were planning to build a 350-400whp N/A setup, I'd say go for it.
Just for reference, you can plan on paying $3-5k for the crank alone. A *NEW* H22/H23/F23 crank can be had from Honda for $5-700'ish.
Almost everything you need for this build will have to be custom.
hmm.. my first decision was to go with the 2.49 stroker from crower, someone i know mentioned 2.8L, didnt really look too much into it yet but sounded like a good idea, more displacement with turbo till you guys told me the walls get too thin.. like i said my first build so im still learning bout the sizes and all and what can and cant be done. how bout an 89mm bore with the crower stroker kit. this kind of stuff is the reason i made this thread hah.
I could just get a new piston, and rehone cylinder 2, im pretty sure the sleeve isnt damaged at all, i didnt see any scratches just transfer from the piston, and call it a day but most people i know with hondas end up down the road, pulling everything apart and boring.. i figured since im in the beginning and have everything apart i may as well save up and do it. at worse resleeve that cylinder and it would be good to go but idk.. im thinking a slightly bigger bore from the get-go.
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Re: My Fully Build H22 Project
Personally I would talk to THIS^ guy or md23vtec about making HUGE power with an H series motor.
Both of them are 600whp+ ballers!
I wouldn't bother with the Crower 2.49L setup with a Turbo. Sure you can do it, but why pay 5x the price of an OEM Honda crank that is more than ready for 600whp+++?
The measily 0.1L won't mean much when you throw a BAR+ of boost at it!
You can also look into having an H23 crank offset ground to 97.75mm per 2point6's build.
I just don't know about doing something like that for a HUGE power Turbo motor.(Seems like less material on crank=weaker) The guys that are messing with stuff like that are All Motor Pimps touching and passing the 300whp mark!
Both of them are 600whp+ ballers!
I wouldn't bother with the Crower 2.49L setup with a Turbo. Sure you can do it, but why pay 5x the price of an OEM Honda crank that is more than ready for 600whp+++?
The measily 0.1L won't mean much when you throw a BAR+ of boost at it!
You can also look into having an H23 crank offset ground to 97.75mm per 2point6's build.
I just don't know about doing something like that for a HUGE power Turbo motor.(Seems like less material on crank=weaker) The guys that are messing with stuff like that are All Motor Pimps touching and passing the 300whp mark!
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Re: My Fully Build H22 Project
Personally I would talk to THIS^ guy or md23vtec about making HUGE power with an H series motor.
Both of them are 600whp+ ballers!
I wouldn't bother with the Crower 2.49L setup with a Turbo. Sure you can do it, but why pay 5x the price of an OEM Honda crank that is more than ready for 600whp+++?
The measily 0.1L won't mean much when you throw a BAR+ of boost at it!
Both of them are 600whp+ ballers!
I wouldn't bother with the Crower 2.49L setup with a Turbo. Sure you can do it, but why pay 5x the price of an OEM Honda crank that is more than ready for 600whp+++?
The measily 0.1L won't mean much when you throw a BAR+ of boost at it!
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Re: My Fully Build H22 Project
Md23vtec/Roger=Turbo/Nitrous god that has run low 10's with a Very Heavy Prelude on Boost and Low 12's with a fairly stock H22+Nitrous.
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Re: My Fully Build H22 Project
thats .29L but i suppose you are right... i have seen stock h23 cranks pull off 640whp soo.. i guess its not worth it
haha stock to 2.49 to 2.8 to 2.49 to stock again...what am i going to do
that is one expensive transmission but i guess u never have to worry about it breaking on you...
What kind of power do you guys think ill make with the current setup i have right now listed
haha stock to 2.49 to 2.8 to 2.49 to stock again...what am i going to do
that is one expensive transmission but i guess u never have to worry about it breaking on you...
What kind of power do you guys think ill make with the current setup i have right now listed