THis is not a complete write up you will need a manual to do this job
I changed my clutch recently and had decided to do a write up for those who don't have a helms or a fsm. After completing the job, i wouldn't recommend that anyone (without experience) tackle this job without the manual. The diagrams in the manual were a huge help, especially when trying to locate some of the bolts. I also had a friend there to help( iluvdrt), which if you are doing this with the engine in the car i would say it is required. This write up is more so you know what is involved and what you are getting yourself into
. So here goes......
I would recommend you purchase something similar too a craftsmen 256 pc. mechanics tool set to complete this job but I'll do my best too write out all the tools i used.
I'll write in the size of the bolts and any other tools i can remember on each step.
1. Disconnect the battery cables and battery tie down, then remove the battery and tray. i used a 10 mm open/closed wrench for this step
2. Now you need to remove the battery base and base stay. There are 6 12 mm bolts and 2 10 mm bolts. I also used a 12 in extension when removing the base bolts.
3. Now remove the strut bar ( if you have one) and intake, if you have an after market CAI you will need to loosen the splash guard to remove the filter. I used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the clamps used with my aem CAI.
4. If you have an after market intake you may be able to skip this step. Remove the intake control vacuum tank and bracket. there are a total of 4 10 mm bolts between the bracket and tank itself. I didn't know this could be removed when i installed my CAI so thats why it was still there. If you are removing it for good you will need to plug the corresponding vacuum line on the im.
5. Now you need to remove the wiring harness and connectors from the tranny and starter. For this step i used a 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets and or wrench.
5A. wiring harness clamp
5B. tranny ground an starter motor cable stay
5C. starter cables
5D. Back up light switch connectors
5E. Starter removal
6. Now you need to shift the tranny into reverse and then remove the cable brackets and cables from the tranny. I used a 12mm deep well socket and needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pins.
6A. cable brackets
6B. cable removal
7. Now you need to remove the vss from the tranny , do not remove the hoses. i used a 10 MM socket for this. there is also an elec plug on top of the vss.
8.Now you need to remove the slave cylinder and lines, which requires a 12mm and 10mmm socket. There are 2 bolts that bolt the slave cylinder to the tranny and 2 to hold the lines in place.
9. jack the front of the car and support it with jack stands
10. remove the drain plug and drain the tranny fluid. this step requires a 3/8 in ratchet.
11.now remove the rear engine mount bracket stay from the tranny, this step requires a 14 mm socket
12. now you need to release the suspension. Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut ( 19 mm) on both sides . Air tools help.
12A. remove the damper fork bolt ( both sides) this step requires a 17 mm wrench and/or 17mmm socket or another 17mmm wrench
12B. Remove the passenger side radius rod from the lca ( 17mm) and the cross member ( 17mm deep well socket)
13. now you need to remove both axles from the tranny and remove the intermediate shaft. IIRC the intermediate shaft bolts were 17 mm. Pry the cv axle inner casings from the tranny and intermediate shaft.
14. now remove the center beam, these bolts were 14mm
15. remove the front engine stiffener and clutch cover. the front engine stiffener uses 14 mm bolts and the clucth cover uses 10mm
16. remove the rear beam stiffener IIRC they used 17mm bolts. You may also need to remove the intake manifold bracket stay to access one of the rear beam bolts but i got around it.
17. remove the rear engine mount bracket bolts
18. place a floor jack under the tranny and support its weight. take care not to damage the housing, i used a block of wood.
19. now you need to remove the tranny mount and bracket. the through bolt is a 17mm and all others were 14 mm ( IIRC). it is neccesary to separate the mount from the bracket.
20. remove the 2 upper tranny mounting bolts.
21. remove the 3 lower mounting bolts.
22. now pull the tranny away from the engine until it clears the main shaft. Once you've cleared the main shaft remove it from the car. This was a pain in the *** and requires some finagling (sp?)
23. now i cleaned the tranny housing and the inside of clutch housing. i used simple green and a pressure washer. be sure to remove all the dirt/grime and clutch fibers from the inside of the clucth housing. take care not to let water in the tranny. i plug the diff holes/etc. with rags. you can now also remove the old release bearing.
24. now you can remove the pressure plate and clutch. i believe the pressure plate bolts were 12mm.
25.now you need to remove the flywheel for resurfacing, remove the bolts in several steps in a crisscross pattern. i also recommend having a rear main seal on hand to replace if yours is leaking.
26. take your flywheel to a machine shop for resurfacing.
NOTE: Reassembly is the most critical part and the main reason i suggest having the manual on hand. As i won't be able to detail the process as well as the manual could. A helms or a FSM can be purchased for around 60.00 dollars. You can also try ebay for the FSM on cd-rom, prices are roughly 5.00 dollars.
27. now you are ready for reassembly, use the steps outlined in your manual for the flywheel, release bearing and clutch/pressure plate reassembly. you will need a few special tools to complete this step.
28. once everything is reassembled you can reverse the steps and put your car back together.
Once again I DO NOT RECOMMEND
you tackle this job without a helms or FSM. Which is why i didn't even try to type out the installation process of the flywheel, clutch, etc. We did this in Iluvdrt's driveway ( see pic below) and it wasn't much fun. i would say it was well worth the 400.00 dollars a local shop wanted to charge me. But the knowledge i gained of my car was priceless. It would be considerably easier to tackle this job in a shop with lift. Thanks to Iluvdrt ( ozzy) , i definitely couldn't have done this job without his help.
Disclaimer: the author claims no responsibility for any damage incurred by the use of this write-up. Go buy a damn manual.
Modified by Behan at 11:24 AM 6/28/2004
Modified by Behan at 11:33 AM 6/28/2004