snowblind7x

Hey guys I have a problem that sounds like a clutch problem to me but just wanted some confirmation before taking my tranny off. When stepping on the gas my motor revs up a bit as if I have the clutch compressed. It revs up maybe 1000 rpms and then comes back down before it catches and it actually starts to accelerate. I had a leaking clutch master cylinder so i was hoping that was the problem but it was not. After replacing with a brand new MC the problem persists. Could this possibly be any other problem then a clutch / pressure plate problem? Any ideas of a less daunting task i could try first? My clutch is only a few years old and has had mainly highway miles put on it with practically NO hard running. It is an exedy stage 2 clutch and pressure plate.

holmesnmanny

Even if your master cylinder is bad or leaking that wouldn't have any effect on the ability of the clutch to grab the flywheel. You will need to pull and look at the clutch.

snowblind7x

yeah that's what i expect. just grasping at straws here hoping someone else has had this problem and knows an easier fix. I'm sure i need a knew clutch and/or pressure plate but like i said....grasping at straws....

sublimeluder

Did u resurface or change flywheel? Normally a clutch will show before it goes unless it explodes. A bad mc or leak will cause soft pedal or no pedal and hard to go into gear.

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Your clutch is slipping. Take it on the highway and step on the gas, the rpm will jump before the car speed catches up..

It's surefire slippage. Something went wrong with the install or break in last time.

The only recourse unfortunately is to pull the tranny. Don't wait, the longer u do the more ur flywheel is in danger of potentially being abused beyond repair

snowblind7x

Yes, the RPMs jump just like you said.


I actually have changed the flywheel since changing the clutch. I replaced my clutch 3 or 4 years ago and replaced my flywheel about a year ago...

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Ok you potentially may not even have to resurface the flywheel. To be clear: it is not the "correct" way to do things, it's the "right wrong way". But if u post up pics of how your flywheel looks, we can take a look at it, and u may be able to just break the glaze with a light sanding. I only bring that up because stepped flywheels are more to resurface and it's so new, it saved me $80 on my clutch job last month and I've had no ill effects. No slip, no chatter, no vibration.

You should be able to do the job for no more than $150. Ps- if I didn't already, I'd recommend exedy oem replacement.

holmesnmanny

How much clutch free play do you have ? Do you ride your clutch a lot ?

As stated above, exedy is THEE best.

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

His clutch may have been worn fast by a lack of freeplay or other user error, installer error, etc but adjusting freeplay as a fix it to hide symptoms isn't generally recommended.

I don't know if that's where u were going with that, but just for the OPs info.

snowblind7x

Once a little more work is completed and i'm tuned, I should be throwing down about 230 whp so i need at least a stage 1...I was thinking i needed a stage 2 which i why i got that originally.

What do you mean by clutch free play?

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

snowblind7x

Thanks. I actually have plenty of free play already because i like my pedal engaging closer to the floor. I am going to have to look more into what clutch to get though...

snowblind7x

You guys think I should definitely get my flywheel resurfaced? It's only about a year old but my clutch is slipping pretty bad now...

holmesnmanny

Too much free play can actually cause it to slip. I would bring it within spec just to rule it out.

Prolly dont need to resurface.

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

I would get Exedy. OEM, even Stage 1 if you feel that's what you need.

I didn't resurface mine since it was real new, but that doesn't mean much. If you don't, you do need to at least sand it to break the glazing. Take some pics and post 'em when you can if you're not sure. What you're concerned with are heat marks and uniformity of the surface.

snowblind7x

The pressure plate and flywheel are warped. Only the inner half (more towards the center) is warped. any idea why this would have happened?

holmesnmanny

My first guess is incorrect torque procedures.

There are basically two major times you absolutely positively want to follow practically exact oem torque procedures, head bolts and clutch/flywheel bolts.

sublimeluder

Incorrect torque would be my guess as wheel. What kind of flywheel do u have?

snowblind7x

Unless my torque wrench is broken, I followed the torque procedure. I think I have an ACT flywheel. It's a solid one piece one.

holmesnmanny

Maybe that was a knockoff clutch.

sublimeluder

I wonder if the leaking master cylinder could have some how caused the clutch to not fully disengage. That could cause excess heat possibly. Idk but seems possible to me but I'm by far no expert I'm just guessing

holmesnmanny

Even if it doesn't fully disengage they move together.

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Yeah but that'd still cause the clutch to slip all the time and warp everything.

The OP is on the right track with that line of thinking, however I will point out that it's tough to not get a full range of motion out of the fork. You'd most certainly feel it unless u had no free play in the pedal or the was nearly no range of motion of the pedal. Also, it would he tough ro shift gears if the clutch wasn't fully disengaging. It's a long shot, and honestly u may never figure out exactly what it was.

I suggest u replace the clutch flywheel etc, and literally measure the pedal according the to FSM.

holmesnmanny

If the master cylinder is leaking to the point that it's not allowing the clutch to disengage, how exactly would that have any effect on the clutch being fully engaged ?

The flywheel and clutch disk are spinning together at all times while engaged.

The master cylinder has no effect whatsoever on the ability of the clutch to engage or slip. If the clutch and flywheel are indeed warped it had nothing to do whatsoever with the master cylinder leaking.

holmesnmanny

Incorrect torque method, wayyyy too much clutch free play/ negative free play, defective/knockoff out of the box flywheel and/or clutch assembly, maybe a damaged crank to name a few.