orc1014

so i just bought a 1994 prelude about a month ago, it has the h22a1 160000 for $2200. thing is it has a noise rattle from 1000 to 2000 rpm its not a continuous noise so it does it only when it wants. can anybody tell me what it is?

heres a link so you can here what im talking about:

What can a be? i thought it may be the LMAs, i switched those out and noise stopped for about a week then it started again. any suggestions? a friend of mine says it can be the cam holes are not round anymore so i might need a new head. please help, any people u can recommend me too?

holmesnmanny

You didnt hear that before you bought it?

Compression test to see the condition of the engine.

orc1014

nope, when i bought there was no noise at all

Sparksman

Have you been hard on the car since you bought it? Shifting at high rpm or doing launches? Nobody cares, its your car. Just trying to find a reason.

Sounds like a rod or wrist-pin knock to me. Are you super low on oil? If its not a knock the valve lash must be something fierce. Make sure to set the valve lash correctly before taking in for a compression test.

Honestly If it was my car I would park it and not drive anymore. Drop the oil pan to see if you have gold glitter floating around. If you do you have a spun bearing and already have metal fragments in the oil system. Hopefully the oil filter isnt clogged and in bypass. Almost makes the difference between on getting new bearings and rings. Or a whole new engine swap.

You can do a compression test cold or hot. But hot that would require driving it on a possible knock. If you have no choice but to drive to a shop...Its your call.

I too have a 94 vtec model, there the best the 4th gens had to offer! At least it will be worth it to replace the engine if need be.

orc1014

i found out its the timing belt tensioner, will be replacing that soon. i saw videos of other peoples tensioners going bad and it sounds EXACTLY like mine. ill keep the page updated. and yes also doing a valve adjustment i know i need that too haha.

xiaogou

My vote goes for a valve spring adjustment.

VashTheStampede

Seconded on the wrist pin knock. My K20 made a similar noise prior to the rod giving out. The tensioner was the cause, the thrown rod was the result.

holmesnmanny

It actually does sound like the tensioner bearing going bad. I had torqued mine down too much which i think caused mine to fail early. Make sure to torque it to specs.

If it were me i would confirm with a compression test. Atleast if it tests ok you got it further confirmed.

holmesnmanny

He means the bearing not the actual tensioner. That sound does appear to be the bearing making sounds.

I had a very similar sound when mines started acting up.

orc1014

Im looking into installing a manual tensioner its 100 for the kit would it be worth it?

holmesnmanny

Yeah, I run it myself. I love it. There's a few howto's on the internet for how to install it. It's fairly straight forward.


You can also look into getting the Kaizenspeed tensioner too. Just make sure to use a straight edge and mark how much deflection/tension is in the belts before you remove them so you know how much deflection/tension to apply when you set it.

orc1014

http://performance.importrp.com/i-291139.aspx?gclid=CJem2eCn0MECFUxsfgodeWgAuQ

Thats the kit i will be buying and installing, is there any other parts i might need?

snobordboy

I have run both the manual conversion and the KS tensioner, and I prefer the KS tensioner. The manual setup is super hard to get the belt on, and the tension s always really tight, which could lead to other issues down the road, including wear on the idler bearing, water pump shaft etc.

Sparksman

Get this! H22 Version 2 Timing Tensioner by KAIZENSPEED | KAIZENSPEED | KStuned.com | Honda H22 | International Shipping

It uses 2 bolts on and off, not springs and lever and other non sense.


they look clean too, here is a pic of mine. Wish I had the limited time anodized black one to match my balance-shaft delete..

xiaogou

^ Sweet looking engine.

orc1014

i was just reading back, and im confused. do you think i need the tensioner bearing or just the tensioner?


this is the tensioner bearing right?

Duralast/Timing Belt Component Kit 84076 at AutoZone.com

holmesnmanny

Yes, it's going to be one of those two bearings. I believe it was the one on the right, when mine went bad, but I'm not 100% certain. If it was the tensioner the belt would be super loose and it would be making a flapping noise at it flaps against the covers.

Yours is like rocks in a can noise and that's a bad bearing.

orc1014

so just to play it safe, because i don't know if its the tensioner or the bearing that's bad i could buy
Duralast/Timing Belt Component Kit 84076 at AutoZone.com

AND
H22 Version 2 Timing Tensioner by KAIZENSPEED | KAIZENSPEED | KStuned.com | Honda H22 | International Shipping

if so my question is will the new KS tensioner tighten the timing belt and balance belt? or does the KS only work if you eliminate the balance shaft.

Sparksman

The KS tensioner can work alone, no need to delete balance shafts.

holmesnmanny

You dont want to delete your balance shafts anyhow. Those are designed to balance out vibrations which prolongs the life of your motor.