Another FRM question
#1
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Another FRM question
Can you bore the FRM sleeves?
I'm planning on putting .25 oversize Type-S pistons into an H22A4 block. The machine shop wants $600 to do a bore and hone because of the FRM lining.
Is this normal, or are they trying to rape me here?
Why would Honda even make an oversize piston for an FRM block if boring was such a pain?
I'm planning on putting .25 oversize Type-S pistons into an H22A4 block. The machine shop wants $600 to do a bore and hone because of the FRM lining.
Is this normal, or are they trying to rape me here?
Why would Honda even make an oversize piston for an FRM block if boring was such a pain?
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Re: Another FRM question (Daemione)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daemione »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just make sure they're honing to the proper FRM specs . . . . it's different than a normal hone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The guy who did mine didn't bore.. just honed. As for the honing, he's never worked with the FRM... and the hone pattern seems to be a standard (60 degree cross-hatch) as that's what he does on the domestic V8's he works on anyhow.
The guy who did mine didn't bore.. just honed. As for the honing, he's never worked with the FRM... and the hone pattern seems to be a standard (60 degree cross-hatch) as that's what he does on the domestic V8's he works on anyhow.
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Re: Another FRM question (SuperSlow)
If you ever sleeve or hone an h22 block, do it at a shop that specializes hondas, or at least has done many in the past and know what they're doing. Honing or sleeving an h22 is not some mickey mouse job. Anyway, you get my point, I hope.
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Re: Another FRM question (PirateMcFred)
Search and ye shall find......The specs for boring and honing an H22 for .25 oversized is out here somewhere, I copied it, gave it to my engine builder, and had good luck with the results.
Also, my builder did a complete rebuild of my motor, including tear down, tank cleaning and inspection of block and head, bore .25 over and hone to FRM spec, reground crank and polished for new bearings, bearings included, installed new Type-S pistons, Eagle rods, manual tensioner conversion, tanked and cleaned the head, installed new Crower cams with springs/retainers, installed timing belt, and did the initial and secondary valve adjustments for:
$750 out the door.
Also, my builder did a complete rebuild of my motor, including tear down, tank cleaning and inspection of block and head, bore .25 over and hone to FRM spec, reground crank and polished for new bearings, bearings included, installed new Type-S pistons, Eagle rods, manual tensioner conversion, tanked and cleaned the head, installed new Crower cams with springs/retainers, installed timing belt, and did the initial and secondary valve adjustments for:
$750 out the door.
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Re: Another FRM question (rjr162)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastludeh22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">600 to bore and hone...screw that...its like 200-250 around here, and yes they know what they are doing</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was just commenting on...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjr162 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As for the honing, he's never worked with the FRM... and the hone pattern seems to be a standard (60 degree cross-hatch) as that's what he does on the domestic V8's he works on anyhow.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was just commenting on...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjr162 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As for the honing, he's never worked with the FRM... and the hone pattern seems to be a standard (60 degree cross-hatch) as that's what he does on the domestic V8's he works on anyhow.</TD></TR></TABLE>
#15
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Re: Another FRM question (fastludeh22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastludeh22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also that .25 is .25mm which is .010" or common referred to 10 over</TD></TR></TABLE>
well not exactly....
anyway you should go to the shop WITH the pistons, and they should bore each cylinder exactly to the piston size + clearance you want. worst thing is getting a flat .25 and findiing out your clearances are wrong.
well not exactly....
anyway you should go to the shop WITH the pistons, and they should bore each cylinder exactly to the piston size + clearance you want. worst thing is getting a flat .25 and findiing out your clearances are wrong.
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Re: Another FRM question (satan_srv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well not exactly....
anyway you should go to the shop WITH the pistons, and they should bore each cylinder exactly to the piston size + clearance you want. worst thing is getting a flat .25 and findiing out your clearances are wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true, i was just guestamating for the sake of this post....1mm=like .038 or something like that, so i round it to .040 when talking, but NEVER do that when it comes down to the act work
well not exactly....
anyway you should go to the shop WITH the pistons, and they should bore each cylinder exactly to the piston size + clearance you want. worst thing is getting a flat .25 and findiing out your clearances are wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true, i was just guestamating for the sake of this post....1mm=like .038 or something like that, so i round it to .040 when talking, but NEVER do that when it comes down to the act work
#17
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Re: Another FRM question (PirateMcFred)
My buddy found someone will can do it for about $100. It turns out the original machine shop didn't have the right tooling to do FRM sleeves, so they wanted me to help pay for the tooling theyd have to buy to do the job.
#18
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Re: Another FRM question (fastludeh22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastludeh22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
very true, i was just guestamating for the sake of this post....1mm=like .038 or something like that, so i round it to .040 when talking, but NEVER do that when it comes down to the act work</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's what I thought...but you never know some people will just take stuff at face value and then they;re screwed again
very true, i was just guestamating for the sake of this post....1mm=like .038 or something like that, so i round it to .040 when talking, but NEVER do that when it comes down to the act work</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's what I thought...but you never know some people will just take stuff at face value and then they;re screwed again
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