caliskier

I think I know what is causing this but I want to hear from you all.
This is bizarre. When I back out of my driveway the left rear wheel squeaks w/ out applying the brake. Then it squeaks louder when I apply the brake to stop and then head off. When I head off it squeaks until I get up to 15-20 mph where the sound fades away. After driving for about
2 miles I have it up to 45 and have to come to a stop at a light, very little squeaking. I also notice at times when I am driving down the road with no brake applied that it briefly squeaks as I hit slight bumps in the road. I think this is my brakes but I do not understand the squeaking when they aren't applied or when I hit a bump.

Thanks in advance.

MJOLNIRvTEC

might be a warped rotor or bracket? also maybe make sure they are are secured correctly and your well is torqued on to spec gluck

caliskier

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MJOLNIRvTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and your well is torqued on to spec gluck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Huh? Help me out on that one, I don't know what that means.

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

I think it might be a sticking caliper.

Do this. After the next time you drive your car for more than 5 miles, get out and put your hand on the wheel that is making the sound. See if it is abnormally hot.

MJOLNIRvTEC

edit i meant wheel sorry im tired as ****

Kronn 98SH

have you actually checked your brake pads? lots of pads have noise makers built in to let you know when the pad is getting low. If you have less than about 1/8" (0.125") then it's time to replace. By the way, your brake pad makes contact with your rotor even when you aren't pressing on the brake pedal.

caliskier

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kronn 98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you actually checked your brake pads? lots of pads have noise makers built in to let you know when the pad is getting low. If you have less than about 1/8" (0.125") then it's time to replace. By the way, your brake pad makes contact with your rotor even when you aren't pressing on the brake pedal. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I guessed it might be that, are disk breaks difficult to replace? What is the cost savings by doing it myself?

TheJGB3

Doing a rear disc brake job is almost as easy as doing the fronts. The only real difference is the caliper pistons on the rear are "twisted" in instead of "pushed" in. This requires a special tool available at almost any autoparts store for around $10.

3/8" ratchet rear disc caliper piston retract tool

caliskier

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheJGB3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doing a rear disc brake job is almost as easy as doing the fronts. The only real difference is the caliper pistons on the rear are "twisted" in instead of "pushed" in. This requires a special tool available at almost any autoparts store for around $10.

3/8" ratchet rear disc caliper piston retract tool</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, I'll look into one of those, checking the HELMS

Should replacement pads be OEM or aftermarket. If aftermarket, what is a good brand.

caliskier

caliskier

Any thoughts on what is better OEM or aftermarket for break pads?

bboixtc

It's just rear pads, get lifetime warranty autozones....

Kronn 98SH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliskier &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the cost savings by doing it myself?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I checked prices around town and they averaged around $300. I replaced my brakes on all 4 corners in under an hour, first time ever doing automotive work. It cost me $30 for all 8 pads and they're ceramic.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheJGB3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doing a rear disc brake job is almost as easy as doing the fronts. The only real difference is the caliper pistons on the rear are "twisted" in instead of "pushed" in. This requires a special tool available at almost any autoparts store for around $10.

3/8" ratchet rear disc caliper piston retract tool</TD></TR></TABLE>

"requires" is a strong word. I used a big *** flathead screw driver and twisted it in, then held it with a C-clamp. I guess I saved another $10 there.

caliskier

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kronn 98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I checked prices around town and they averaged around $300. I replaced my brakes on all 4 corners in under an hour, first time ever doing automotive work. It cost me $30 for all 8 pads and they're ceramic.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice, that's what I'm talking about, I get tired of taking my car in for something and those jackholes tell me that I need a new pcv valve and a battery cleaning and what ever else gets them enough money to buy that wii little johnny has been wanting.

bb4_bkh

yeah automotive work is wayyyyy over-rated..good job doing them, did it get rid of the squeak? i was going to say something about the "special tool" for the rears but you beat me to it

Kronn 98SH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4_bkh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good job doing them, did it get rid of the squeak? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not the OP, so my brake job didn't help him.

But for the OP, since you asked about brands of pads, I'm using Raybestos ceramics. I've put an extremely aggressive 40k miles on them, and I still have more than half the pad left. Great purchase IMO.

SKDRCR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheJGB3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doing a rear disc brake job is almost as easy as doing the fronts. The only real difference is the caliper pistons on the rear are "twisted" in instead of "pushed" in. This requires a special tool available at almost any autoparts store for around $10.

3/8" ratchet rear disc caliper piston retract tool</TD></TR></TABLE>


You don't need that, needle nose pliers will do the same thing

Also, if the hardware that sits in the caliper bracket is loose it can
cause it to make a squeaking sound as well.

caliskier

Thanks again guys, did not mean to make multiple posts, thought this was dead. I bought that cube, but I am going to try without it and take it back, The plyers trick might be the thing. Thanks all again....

Called pep boys to see how much a rear pad replacement was, they said $195. I told my wife we can get a jack and stands and the parts and I can do it for much cheaper plus I get to keep the stands....She said cool, the kitchen is dirty, I bet I can get a new vacuum for cheaper than a maid!