DillyD

I have a problem. My ABS light comes on after i drive about 200 feet. I checked for codes and it doesn't throw any. I know they aren't working tho cuz i slid about 10 feet today, not a good feeling. Anyone have any ideas? The brake reservoir came off and i didn't know for about a week. Maybe air in the lines?? I'm clueless. Any help would be great.

BluePhoenix

I have the same issue...after my speedo hits 17-18mph...everytime like clockwork. no codes and it doesn't affect driving at all.

DillyD

Yeah, did you do any work before this problem came up or did it just start happening outta nowhere?

gamer4lif

if the abs light comes on, a code has been stored. honda's directions state to turn the car on then put the jumper in, but actually you want to do the opposite. Put a paper clip in then turn the car to the on position and it should start blinking. once you have the code look up what is causing the problem.

Also make sure you don't have tires of different sizes on the same axle. This will throw a wheel sensor code. tires of significantly different wear can do the same thing.

code is the best way to diagnose the abs system.

DillyD

I tried that it still throws no code wtf!!!

DillyD

HAHA I finally got it to throw a code......the codes is 1 abs motor over run now what. Hmm. I got a buddy at the honda store that is gonna get me a tech manual ill let yall know. Prolly gonna bleed the abs system.

gamer4lif

abs codes are two part. If you saw one long digit and one short digit it would be code 1-1 that's what it would be. I can take pictures of the pages you need if you need them. I'd start with flushing/bleeding the system it's fairly easy.
1) start car for a minute or two
2) open bleeder valve with hose connected and directed into container/away from car/somewhere (high pressure system)
3) once no more fluid comes out, close bleeder valve
4) repeat steps 1-3 until no fluid remains
5) open cap on top of reservoir (there's a rubber cap above it then a small plastic cap below that that you need to open)
6) fill until at max line
7) repeat steps 1-3 twice
8) refill reservoir to max level
done.

I dont remember how to reset the abs codes, but do that, then see if it does it again.

m00nr0ck Si

Good stuff man....I have the same code on my 96 Si , pump motor overun. Im going to try bleeding mine

NFrank89

sounds like a abs sensor failure. if you can get the code it will tell you which one. (which tire) usually you can fix it by cleaning and bending the sensor closer to the abs splines on the axle. its behind the dust shield. the reason it comes on after you drive a few feet is because the car knows its moving but not getting a signal from one of the sensors then it kicks on.

micah_m

I also have the ABS light turn on after I start driving. It never did it until after the H22a swap was done. I got it to throw a code, and I went to check it and it wasn't an existing code number as far as I could tell. So I went to check it again, several different times on several different days, and it wouldn't throw any codes after that. It still turns on every time I start driving though.

spoolin-4

I've had this issue aswell, but the ABS light is visble. Seeing the cars parked for the winter, I'm going to clean all 4 wheel sensors aswell as bleed the ABS unit.

So, come springtime, hopefully it won't come on, especially seeing the wheel sensors are $150-$200 a pop.

keeb94prelude

i had the same problem. i bleed the crap out of the system. and the ASB light stop coming on.

OldSkoolSk8r

I've got the ABS code 1 and found that my ABS motor is working by this jumper procedure, but what hasn't been talked about is, what if the pump is not producing pressure. There is nothing to bleed in this case.

I purchased an ABS module from a junk yard... has the same problem: motor works, pump does not.

Having a second ABS pump, I broke it open to see if I could figure out why it didn't pump. It is a ridiculous design, but I found the orange residue in the system was likely coming from the impeller crust/rust. There are two roller bearing looking things in this impeller that are supposed to sling out and ride in a non-concentric bearing track (I'm making up this description). Here is the problem: if these two roller bearing things don't sling out due to crust/rust ... no pumping.

I took some fine emory cloth to the crust/rust on the impeller, shaft and two roller bearings. Reassembled. MIRACLE... It pumps!!! It even makes the raspy sound as described in shop manual. Now I will see if the whole system works. One problem at a time.

Has anyone else ever done this? How long might this last?

By the way, I found that bench bleeding the ABS module off the car is easy by jumpering to the battery.

mrbleegs

I had the same issue with my ABS, code 1. The fix posted from OldSkoolSk8r indeed works! I just finished tearing the pump apart after removing it from the car and it was those 2 slider things were seized up. I cleaned them with the emory cloth and got them sliding again, put it all back together and it really was a miracle because it worked. I did the bleed procedure on the bench as suggested by jumping it to a battery and it was pumping and building pressure. Reinstalled in the car, bleed all the brakes, and guess what - no more ABS light! This was the best fix i have done in a long time. I suggest others give this a try. If you jump the relay ports in the fuze box and hear the motor run but its not the loud raspy sound then you probably need to do this. Seems to be a real problem on these cars. Easy fix for a few $ and few hours of your time.

H23_Lude4_2_0

i have the same problem...bleh