richk14

iTrader: (1)

Hey all, long time lurker, first time poster.

I figured I'd throw this thread together to compile all of the problems and attempted fixes I've run into the past month or so. Hopefully I can properly list a chronological sequence of events so you fine people can help me troubleshoot.

A while back, I swapped a motor in my 5G, same in as came out, USDM H22A4. Initially, I had starting problems, which ended up being self induced (with NO help from the less-than-accurate diagrams in Haynes manuals). Spark plug wires were in the wrong sequence. Fix't.

About 25 miles into driving this thing it threw a CEL, VTEC something or other. I removed the vehicles current VTEC solenoid, and installed a cleaner, fresher one from my old head. Fix't.

After daily driving the car for a few weeks (strictly to and from work) I ran into another issue; it began overheating when stopped. I checked the normal stuff, coolant levels, cap condition, changed the thermostat/seal. I'm still having to add coolant semi-regularly - previous owner used stop-leak which led me to believe the radiator leaks; new one on order. Upon further investigation I noted that my fans weren't coming on (no clue how I missed that) and if I jumped the connector that goes to the fan switch (located on the thermostat housing) my fans would kick on. Removed and replaced that switch, all should've been good. Nope. Idle overheat continued. I cleaned the IACV, and cleaned and adjusted the FITV to no avail. After some research, I found out that there are 2 coolant temp sensors that have input on fan operation, the one I hadn't changed yet was a 2-pin connector underneath the distributor. It was cracked around the base of the plastic connector, so I swapped it out with my old one and the overheating has come to an end. Needless to say, I am extremely proficient at bleeding the cooling system. Fix't

While all of the cooling issues were happening, the car threw its' first CEL. Bank 1 sensor 1. Changed the pre-cat o2 sensor, fix't.

After getting the VTEC, and cooling system handled and the o2 sensor code cleared, I began driving the car heavier, more often. Then a few other CEL's reared their ugly faces. Misfires, cylinders 1 & 2 and random/intermittent misfires. All clues pointed to an EGR malfunction. I yanked that EGR valve out, cleaned it up and op's checked it. All good, reinstall and press on. About the time this misfire junk showed up, I noticed the car began having a difficult time starting after it was warmed up (cold starts no problem, gas station trips no bueno). There's a very good chance it always had the starting issue, but I never drove it enough to run into it. So I got the misfire codes cleared by cleaning the EGR.

Let's recap:

No Start: Swapped plug wires - fix't
CEL #1: VTEC solenoid - fix't
Cooling Problem: Changed both fan temp switches - fix't
CEL #2: B1S1 O2 sensor - Replaced - fix't
CEL's 3, 4, 5 & 6: Cylinders 1 & 2 misfire, random/intermittent misfires - Cleaned EGR valve - fix't

Vehicle has a difficult time starting when warmed up.

Moving on. After much research into the starting problem (I've read and accomplished steps listed in countless 'Final Starting Problem' threads), I moved onto the infamous main relay. No dice, the relay was in perfect working order. After the relay fiasco I was parked in front of my house and the car began to idle extremely rough, and my CEL began to flash. Misfires! I saw fuel filter mentioned in some of the threads I'd read regarding the hard starts and thought it may help the misfire thing, so figured, "eh, easy enough I'll change it." **** me right? Worst job ever, I'd love to meet the genius who determined a fuel line should be torqued to eleventybillion ft lbs.

I digress. Hard warm starts, stumbling idle/misfires & new fuel filter. After the fuel filter replacement the car has become excessively difficult to start when cold or warm. It'll turn over and stumble for about 15+ seconds, and with some throttle manipulation, start (this sequence will be referred to as 'the gauntlet'). The only 'quick starts' it's capable of are after its warmed up and sits for under 5 minutes. Any longer and its a gauntlet. Once it started, it warms up normal, drives like a dream and idles great. It's almost as if it's trying to start utilizing only 2 cylinders. I figured now would be a good time to replace ignition components, so I did. I replaced the distributor rotor, cap, plugs and wires; I also slaved in a spare coil for good measure.

While troubleshooting the starting issue, I noted that the running conditions didn't change when I pulled the #2 plug wire, while the car was actively misfiring and idling rough. I positively eliminated any ignition problem. I checked for positive fuel pressure post-filter, pre-rail and post-rail; all good. Leaves the injector. I changed the injector and all is well for now.

If you've managed to read this far without losing interest, I'd like to ask for your help. Does anyone have any troubleshooting procedures/fixes I've overlooked for this starting problem? I also feel that this misfire thing isn't completely solved, but I can only throw so many parts at it. Please let me know if there's any other information you may require to make this process easier.

/RK

richk14

iTrader: (1)

Quick update: I checked the CKP and TDC sensors as per the Haynes manual with good results. The only sensors left to check are the MAP and CYP. Both of which I haven't any idea how to test.

richk14

iTrader: (1)

I just tested the CYP as per a how-to I was directed to (test resistance between the yellow and black wires on the 4-pin plug on the distributor). It read 375.5 Ohms between the yellow & black wires, I'm told 260-460 Ohms means a good sensor, so I guess that's not the problem. What are the other 2 wires in that plug for? Also, what is the 2 pin plug for?

I've been thinking about it. Sort of a long shot, but what are the chances that my problems are caused by a base timing issue? As in, tensioner failure, belt skipped some teeth and is causing the starting issues because the ECU hasn't had a chance to correct the timing electronically? It shows 15* BTDC when I put a light to it, but that could be corrected by the ECU.

I've also thought maybe the ECU goes into safe-mode during start because of the possible timing issue - therefore causing a '2 cylinder start', and takes itself out of safe-mode once the timing is corrected/compensated for.

Any insight/suggestions on these issues would be much appreciated.