NOOB CR-V Timing Belt Repair
07-10-2014, 05:26 AM
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NOOB CR-V Timing Belt Repair
New guy here and have a few questions
My Mom has a 98 CR-V and stripped a couple teeth off her timing belt while on the way to work. Said she was entering an off ramp and going about 35MPH and proceeded to try to restart a few times before she called me. I had her tow it home where I popped the distributor cap and had her bump it while I watched the rotor not spin lol. I then pulled the valve cover and was able to see the missing teeth on the belt.
It looks as it two cam lobes (one intake and one ex) are just off there peak. Everything else was close to closed. What are the chances she got lucky with the valves? I guess the only way to really check it is to remove the head?
Been looking on ebay and found a few timing belt kits for what I think is a fair price. I would like to stick with a brand name and found a Gates kit (belt, water pump, tension pulley, and gaskets) for $81. Is that a good price and are there and other things I might need, tools, other gaskets, and so on?
Maybe a stupid question but can I do this with the engine in the car or is it better to pull it and do some other stuff like replace oil pump or even a simple rebuild (gaskets, bearings, ect). Engine has 235.XXX on it.
She wants to keep it on the cheap and I told her a lot of that will depend on the valves. Still questioning myself if I want to try to replace the valves myself or have it done if needed. Im guessing most of this info is in a service manual but sometimes its nice to hear from personal experience vs what an engineer wrote but I will definitely have some form of a manual before I start.
Thanks in advance
My Mom has a 98 CR-V and stripped a couple teeth off her timing belt while on the way to work. Said she was entering an off ramp and going about 35MPH and proceeded to try to restart a few times before she called me. I had her tow it home where I popped the distributor cap and had her bump it while I watched the rotor not spin lol. I then pulled the valve cover and was able to see the missing teeth on the belt.
It looks as it two cam lobes (one intake and one ex) are just off there peak. Everything else was close to closed. What are the chances she got lucky with the valves? I guess the only way to really check it is to remove the head?
Been looking on ebay and found a few timing belt kits for what I think is a fair price. I would like to stick with a brand name and found a Gates kit (belt, water pump, tension pulley, and gaskets) for $81. Is that a good price and are there and other things I might need, tools, other gaskets, and so on?
Maybe a stupid question but can I do this with the engine in the car or is it better to pull it and do some other stuff like replace oil pump or even a simple rebuild (gaskets, bearings, ect). Engine has 235.XXX on it.
She wants to keep it on the cheap and I told her a lot of that will depend on the valves. Still questioning myself if I want to try to replace the valves myself or have it done if needed. Im guessing most of this info is in a service manual but sometimes its nice to hear from personal experience vs what an engineer wrote but I will definitely have some form of a manual before I start.
Thanks in advance
07-10-2014, 05:54 AM
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Re: NOOB CR-V Timing Belt Repair
There is always a possibility that the valves didn't get touched but then again this is an interference engine. The easiest way to go about checking for valve damage without extreme specialty tools is to just do the timing job and then do a leak-down test afterwards.
You can put the pistons half way down in their bores and rotate the cams (making ABSOLUTELY sure no valves are open on the opposite side of that cylinder) and check valve stem height down the line. This will only show you if a valve is extremely bent, but if you see minor differences it could just be a worn seat or slightly bent valve. Pressure testing or removal of the head and using rubbing alcohol for valve seal is your better bet though. Lapping valves works too but I don't like lapping valves I am not sure if they are straight or not.
The belt kit price is OK, but I personally only buy OEM parts for things like this on a stock engine. You can get really good prices at www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and they get shipped to your door.
This job can be done in car without too much issue. The tight clearance is kind of a hassle, but it is definitely doable. Jacking up the engine slightly and removing the engine mount is a must. The hardest part is usually removing the factory harmonic balancer since those bolts tend to like to stay in there. Many ways around that obstacle though.
The only extra gaskets would be valve cover. Whatever else you replace would be if they are worn or if you like to do things "because you are in there already".
You can put the pistons half way down in their bores and rotate the cams (making ABSOLUTELY sure no valves are open on the opposite side of that cylinder) and check valve stem height down the line. This will only show you if a valve is extremely bent, but if you see minor differences it could just be a worn seat or slightly bent valve. Pressure testing or removal of the head and using rubbing alcohol for valve seal is your better bet though. Lapping valves works too but I don't like lapping valves I am not sure if they are straight or not.
The belt kit price is OK, but I personally only buy OEM parts for things like this on a stock engine. You can get really good prices at www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and they get shipped to your door.
This job can be done in car without too much issue. The tight clearance is kind of a hassle, but it is definitely doable. Jacking up the engine slightly and removing the engine mount is a must. The hardest part is usually removing the factory harmonic balancer since those bolts tend to like to stay in there. Many ways around that obstacle though.
The only extra gaskets would be valve cover. Whatever else you replace would be if they are worn or if you like to do things "because you are in there already".
07-10-2014, 12:08 PM
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Re: NOOB CR-V Timing Belt Repair
Didn't think about leak down test, that's a good idea. Any good sources for a OEM shop manual? Ive got my belt kit ordered and it will be here tomorrow so if I can find some good documentation I hope to have this knock out this weekend.
If I do run into a valve issue and there's no damage to the piston or chamber Im assuming swapping out these valve are no different then any other head. Compress the spring, pop the retainer and install in reverse order?
Sorry again about the other post, I figured someone would say something
If I do run into a valve issue and there's no damage to the piston or chamber Im assuming swapping out these valve are no different then any other head. Compress the spring, pop the retainer and install in reverse order?
Sorry again about the other post, I figured someone would say something
07-10-2014, 02:41 PM
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Re: NOOB CR-V Timing Belt Repair
I am not sure about the manual, I bought mine off eBay a few years ago. Usually if a valve is bent in this kind of situation there is no other damage other than the valve. Obviously it doesn't hurt to inspect everything while it is apart though.
When it comes to replacing the valve it is no different if not easier than most other engines. Loosen up the rocker to get it out of the way and it is straight forward from there. The valve stem seals are pressed onto the valve guides so just lube the new valve and spin her home.
These should get you in the ball park:
When it comes to replacing the valve it is no different if not easier than most other engines. Loosen up the rocker to get it out of the way and it is straight forward from there. The valve stem seals are pressed onto the valve guides so just lube the new valve and spin her home.
These should get you in the ball park:
07-11-2014, 10:51 AM
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Re: NOOB CR-V Timing Belt Repair
Just to be sure the crank shaft bolt loosens counter clockwise like most bolts? I've got my floor jack handle on my barker bar it doesn't want to bust free.
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07-12-2014, 11:22 AM
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Re: NOOB CR-V Timing Belt Repair
Yes, lefty loosey...
Somewhat depends on who you ask but most go with no more than 1/2" deflection with belt preloaded from turning engine counter clockwise (normal engine rotation). It has more play than you would think, but with stock valvetrain it really doesn't matter as much.
Just tighten up the tensioner and back it off about 1/2 a turn or whatever it takes to get it to relax some. Rotate engine CCW at least 3 teeth to preload the belt. Tighten tensioner bolt to spec. Spin engine CCW back to everything TDC and verify crank is at TDC mark and camshafts have the "UP" arrows pointing up and the marks are inline with each other. Then you are good to go. If stuff is off then you are a tooth off and everything needs to be reset.
I "thread" the belt from crank to exhaust gear and then have it on the rest of the accessories with tensioner loose and pull the belt up onto the intake cam.
Somewhat depends on who you ask but most go with no more than 1/2" deflection with belt preloaded from turning engine counter clockwise (normal engine rotation). It has more play than you would think, but with stock valvetrain it really doesn't matter as much.
Just tighten up the tensioner and back it off about 1/2 a turn or whatever it takes to get it to relax some. Rotate engine CCW at least 3 teeth to preload the belt. Tighten tensioner bolt to spec. Spin engine CCW back to everything TDC and verify crank is at TDC mark and camshafts have the "UP" arrows pointing up and the marks are inline with each other. Then you are good to go. If stuff is off then you are a tooth off and everything needs to be reset.
I "thread" the belt from crank to exhaust gear and then have it on the rest of the accessories with tensioner loose and pull the belt up onto the intake cam.
07-13-2014, 10:57 AM
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Re: NOOB CR-V Timing Belt Repair
It took me two times to get it right but its runs pretty good now. Tried to take it for a drive Saturday morning after finishing up the belt late Friday night but it ran like crap and wouldnt hardly idle. So I took it back apart and started from step one reinstalling the new belt. Not sure how I screwed it up the first time but it ran like a top the second time around. Did a compression test after my leak down numbers didn't look so good on #2 and 3 and to my surprise I had 145-150 psi in each cylinder. So Im going to say I didn't bend any valves. The poor leak down numbers are probably just normal wear for a engine with 240,000 mile range.
I set the valves for the spec in the service manual .03-.05 Intake and .06-.08 Exhaust even though the sticker under the hood said something different. Dumped some sea foam in gas, oil, and intake then took it out and drove it like I stole it. Pretty happy with the result. Thanks a lot for the help. Cant tell you how happy my Mom is to have her car back. Thanks again!!!
Just realized I did that compression test with the throttle closed. Not sure how much better or worse my numbers would have been with it open.
I set the valves for the spec in the service manual .03-.05 Intake and .06-.08 Exhaust even though the sticker under the hood said something different. Dumped some sea foam in gas, oil, and intake then took it out and drove it like I stole it. Pretty happy with the result. Thanks a lot for the help. Cant tell you how happy my Mom is to have her car back. Thanks again!!!
Just realized I did that compression test with the throttle closed. Not sure how much better or worse my numbers would have been with it open.
Last edited by Gratefuldiver; 07-13-2014 at 11:20 AM. Reason: Forgot details
07-13-2014, 01:38 PM
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Re: NOOB CR-V Timing Belt Repair
No problem, glad I could help. I have seen having the throttle closed affect compression tests by almost 30% haha, but this is extreme. Even still, 140-150 is still pretty good for that high of milage. When doing a compression test you are looking for cylinder pressure differentials rather than focusing entirely on psi alone. The leak-down could be from worn seats / valves or slightly bent valves. A proper leak-down diagnosis will pinpoint the problem for sure though... 
If no codes are being thrown or gas mileage isn't reduced I wouldn't worry about it too much.
In any event, glad Mom is happy and has her car back. With any luck it might last for another 200,000 haha!
If no codes are being thrown or gas mileage isn't reduced I wouldn't worry about it too much.In any event, glad Mom is happy and has her car back. With any luck it might last for another 200,000 haha!
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