JeremyG

My wife and I both have 98 crv's, mine 5sp hers is an auto.

2 weeks ago mine turned off while at a stop light. I pushed it off the road and came back 3 hours later. It started right up no problem. 2 days later I parked it in my drive way, about an hour later I went to start it and it would not.

Its not getting spark. I pulled my wife's distributor off and put it on my crv and it still would not get spark. The car sat for a week while we went on vacation.
I got back and my crv started right up. I drove it to the gas station and then back home. The next day it wouldn't start.

Today my wife was on her way home from work and her crv stopped at a stop light. I had it towed home, I checked things out and her car gets no spark as well...

They both have about 190-198k. No engine code on ether one of them.

Things I have replaced:
1. Distributor
2. Spark Plugs
3. Spark Plug Wires

Still no spark, fuel injectors are spraying.
I guess I will check the timing next.

The car will crank but not start..

I have read on other this and forums where people have had the same problem, but no real solution has been posted.

List of things people say to replace:
1. Distributor (DONE)
2. Spark Plugs and Wires (DONE)
3. Ignition switch (DONE)
4. Main relay (If it was the main relay would it crank? I hear it click when I turn the ignition anyway) (CHECKED SEEMS FINE)
5. Crank sensor (would the ECU show a code if this was bad? also would the ECU disable the distributor if the crank sensor was bad?)
6. Check every fuse (DONE) All were good
6. Check Timing (no spark at all so this will be my last thing to check)


Any suggestion would be great!!
THANKS!!

UK-Kev

Hi JeremyG,

There was a worldwide recall for the Ignition switch for the Mk1 CRV’s, so I suggest you check for power at the distributor when key is in the ACC / start position.
Rgs,
Kev

JeremyG

Ok thanks I will call the dealer in the morning!!

JeremyG

Today I replaced the ignition switch.. Still no spark!!
Its plastic and held by 2 small screws, it shocks me how easy it would be to brake it and steal the car.
I think I could do it in less than a min.

I also removed the PGM-FI Main relay, Looked at all the solder joints, they all look new. I plugged it back in and turned the ignition, it clicks, then the fuel pump primes.
So I don't think its the Main relay..

No power to the distributor at all!!
I would think with a whole new distributor it would have power, I'm at a loss!!

Q: If it was the main relay would it crank at all?
I have been told the starter wouldn't crank if it was bad, is this correct?
A: I removed the relay and started the car and it does crank!!

I hear it click when I turn the ignition, maybe click but not getting a connection???

Q: If it was the Crank sensor would the ECU show a code if this was bad?

Q: Would the ECU disable the distributor if the crank sensor was bad?
Nothing I have read would let me believe this would be the case.

UK-Kev

Hi Jeremy,

Before you replace all the engine / electronic components on your vehicle, let’s start with some basic diagnostics.
1/ Do you have any fault codes.
2/ When rotating the engine and with the distributor cap removed, is the rota-arm turning – You will need the aid of an assistant to turn the engine while you watch.

Rgs,

Kev

JeremyG

No codes, on my wife's, but on mine the O2 is bad, well I replaced it and reset it and every now and then the engine light will come back on but always goes back off.. Its always the O2, I'm not sure if its the sensor or a bad connection.

But no codes...

Yes the rotor is spinning!!
I would have felt real dumb if the timing belt was broke!!

I cannot tell if the rotor is hitting the studs in the cap...
The center stud is on the center of the rotor..

I'm not sure if the distributor is even getting power.
I will multi meter it tomorrow!!

Thanks for the suggestions Kev

UK-Kev

Okay it could be lack of live power feed at the distributor unit plug (see note below) or the rotor arm is worn out, or the distributor cap needs replacing. Regarding the distributor cap, check for tracking marks from the pins; if okay remove any scale that may have built up.

NOTE: If no live feed at the distributor feed plug, this could be one of three issues –i.e. Immobilise fault, broken wire, or the spark igniter needs replacing. (More than likely the igniter)

Rgs,

Kev

JeremyG

The distributor, cap, rotor, and wires are all new.

I bought another new cap and rotor today, did not work..
I cant find my multi meter so I will buy a new one tomorrow and check all connections.

dogbiscuit

what about the coil?

JeremyG

I tested the new coil and it was bad!!
I swapped out the new distributor, installed it and my wifes CRV started right up!!

I replaced the coil plug wires and spark plugs on my CRV and it started but the timing was off.
I pulled the valve cover and the belt has jumped a tooth or three..
So I'm going to replace the belt water pump and tensioner..

Thanks for all the help!!