OGCRV2001

Hello I did my timing belt about a year ago and a mechanic buddy (that has since passed away) helped me put it in. I went to get my cr-v smoged and it failed due to the timing being off. I went home to check the timing using a paper clip to short the terminals inside the cab and as im checking it the line is not not constant. It jumps from where its supposed to be (or close to it) to way far off every other revolution or so. Im suspecting the timing belt is not not lined up correctly but it runs fine idles smooth i havent noticed loss of power. It does seem to ping slightly.

do i need to take it all apart again to redo the timing belt?

OneBadTurboCRV

If you are jumpering the 2P connector with the brown and black wires for sure, then it could be the timing belt or distributor rotor is loose. The timing should not jump around with the jumper connected. You could go one step further and disconnect the IACV just to verify you are not getting idle fluctuations.

OGCRV2001

I am jumping the two wires correctly and my rotor is tight, the idle is also very smooth. So now that its most likely the timing belt is there any way to tell how off it Is in which direction and possibly move it without taking the whole cover off?

UK-Kev

Hello,
Regarding you saying that your timing is off every other revolution this sounds correct to me, but you need to confirm my thoughts. When you align the crankshaft and camshaft pulley’s with their respective mark point (let’s say crankshaft 6 o’clock and camshaft at 12 o’clock) on the next single turn of the crankshaft the camshaft marks will not align due to the fact the camshaft only turn half crankshaft speed …… You need to check this.

NOTE that the distributor arm will change positions from spark plug lead one, to lead 4 when checking as described above.
If not as detailed above then timing is out and needs to be corrected

Now a question Please clarify what are you trying to do with bridging out your diagnostic plug when checking the engine timing.

Kev

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

Man timing lights are sensitive!!!! Move the clip around a bit and away from other wires. It is VERY easy to pick up other cylinders and instantly see a weird timing effect like described. Some clips even have an arrow on them that point to the plug. No big timing deal at all. Don't tear into it when it's running right!

OGCRV2001

OGCRV2001

I know exactly what your talking about here and have experienced it also. But that's not the case here.

Would've been nice if it was as simple as user error with the timing light.

OneBadTurboCRV

The lower plastic timing cover has a indicator built in (same one you use to set ignition timing) and you would just use the 4th timing mark (the one by itself) for TDC. To view the camshaft marks you unfortunately have to remove the valve cover but this is extremely quick and easy and straight forward. Remove PCV, breather line, ground strap (if equipped), spark plug wires, and nuts then remove.

Be sure camshaft sprocket arrows and words "UP" are pointing towards the sky and rotate the engine counter clockwise until your harmonic balancer TDC mark lines up with the indicator tit and the horizontal marks on the camshaft sprockets are in line with each other. If the camshaft marks aren't in line with the crankshaft at TDC then you will need to readjust the gears and/or tighten the belt.

Loosen the tensioner about 1/2 a turn (I like to back it off loose, barely snug it back up, then back it off again and insure the tensioner slides freely). Turn engine CCW at least 3 teeth on the crankshaft timing gear. You can turn more but be sure you don't try to retighten if one of the camshafts jumps forward or is on the tipping point. You want tension on the belt. Torque tensioner bolt back to spec. Rotate engine CCW back to TDC and verify everything lines up. Pretty simple.

UK-Kev

Hi, You should check static timing first before moving onto electronic timing light check.

Kev

OGCRV2001

OK, so I decided to just go ahead and replace my timing belt and as you can see its off. Its been this way for a good 70,000 miles. I turned the crankshaft counter clock wise and lined up the White mark( the one by itself) with the timing cover mark and as you can see in the pic the right cam looks to be off more then the left but both do seem to be off.

I thought it has been running fine since the last timing belt job and didn't notice any loss of power but maybe Im wrong. I always check my valves every 10,000-15,000 miles and keep them on the loose end of the tollerance.

Anybody actually know if this has been killing my performance or not?
Or killing anything else?

UK-Kev

Hello, you should have scribed line on each camshaft pulley (I cannot see them in your photo) with the crankshaft on the TDC (top dead canter) position the left hand pulley mark should be at 3 o'clock and your right-hand pulley at 9 o’clock and align with the long flat line scribed on the head – It’s the little line between the two pulleys.

Edited: Managed to blow your photo up – Your timing is out – right-hand pulley looks to be out by one tooth. Confirm marks in photo below.

Kev

tony_2018

Oh boy......hopefully nothing was damaged. Double check the timing marks this time before buttoning up.

edit: your cam seals are leaking. Might as well replace those while your in there. Check your crank seal as well and get it replace if it needs to be .

OneBadTurboCRV

Being one too off will degrade performance since one tooth equates to about ~10.5* off in timing. (360* ÷ 34 teeth) So with that being said you are over 10* advanced in the intake cam which is not good at all.

Definitely going to be loss of performance even if you had a built engine with aftermarket camshafts... You shouldn't have bent any valves on a stock engine with only one tooth off, but a compression test at minimum and an additional leak down test at best would verify all is well. Do all this of course after you complete the timing belt job and all is aligned correctly.

OGCRV2001

Thanks! Will do.

OGCRV2001

Thanks for the technical description, thats what I was after.

OGCRV2001

Well if i did do some damage the head is coming off. I should be able to slap the valve cover on real quick now and do a leak down test and comp. test right? if its bad then the head is coming out anyways so save myself that much more work vs. putting the new timing belt in now dial it in ect... right?

OneBadTurboCRV

You could do that assuming the camshaft valve events produce both intake and exhaust cams on the base circle of the cam. Even with the one tooth off you shouldn't have a problem making sure both sides are closed. Technically the right way to do it would be to set the timing correct first.

To do those tests, you don't even need the valve cover on if you choose to do so. Just be sure you disable to fuel and ignition before you do the compression test (or turn it over with a jumper wire on the solenoid instead - ignition off).

OGCRV2001

Just to finish out this thread.... got the timing belt done and lined up correctly. It may have been running ok with being one tooth off for as long as it did but man I was missing out on some serious performance.
My cr-v Hauls *** now no more pinging at all and way more torque and my timing mark is steady and am able to dial it in now no prob. So everybody make sure you match up the tiny lines on the cam sprockets exactly horizontal. I had to actually turn one of my cams back a little squeeze the belt on a little then turn it towards the other cam to get the belt all the way on. Took a couple try's until I did it to where the lines on the sprockets lined up.
Have fun Y'all!

OneBadTurboCRV

You are welcome. Glad it is back to where it should be and that I could help. Enjoy!