benreif

Just got back from vacation and my 97 crv will turnover untill the battery dies but will not catch. Through a reccomendation from my dad, I am going to start with the main Relay. However i am not real sure where to find it. I think it is to the right of the steering column, but nothing really looks likewhat the pictures are showing me of a replacement 97 main relay. so I think i am just not looking at the correct thing

Does any one have a pic of a mainrelay installed on a 97 crv.

Anyother troubleshooting tips?

ARMED

search this thread, you will see a lot of good info...it could be anything...

are u getting spark? fuel? do you have an aftermarket alarm? compression check?

benreif

Well....found the main relay and got a new one.....no luck. I think i can take it back though.
I pulled one of the plugs and turned er over and there was no spark. what does this mean. Does it rule out a fuel issue? Any thoughts? Questions? Thanks in advance. ben.
Oh yeah, No alarm and not real sure how to do a compression test.

turbodcivic510

Could be an igniter. Try seeing if you're getting spark from the dizzy. If so then it's your spark plug wires. If not dig a little deeper into your distributor ie; rotor, cap etc... If you've got fuel you would def smell it. ESP when you've got a plug pulled. Listen for your fuel pump priming and shutting off, that's the main relays job, so if that's working then you've got fuel... At least from the tank. Could be a clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pressure regulator, clogged rail, or bad injectors. If you're clear in all of that then I'd suspect timing.


Pm me with any more questions.

daricky

I would try the igniter inside of the distributer. It is a cheap route to go and I had this problem before and it worked for me. I would recommend and oem igniter too by the way. I originally put in an aftermarket one and it burnt out within a week.

b18LS

I've seen a bad distributor cap and rotor cause a civic to not start. It would turn over forever without even a sputter.

Are you getting spark at the wire?

richiepooh

faulty spark will definitely cause you not to start. Also remove a spark plug wire place a screw drive in the lead that covers the spark plug. Hold it close to the top of the engine cover and crank the engine. Be careful of when doing this as the coil in the distributor can shock you. If you crank the engine and there is no spark from the distributor to the top of the engine cover, you may need to change the coil and or ignitor. You make also remove the screws on the distributor cap and remove the cap, crank the engine a check if the distributor rotor is spinning, if this is not spinning it means that your timing belt is broken. You may also check in the fuse box for the ecu main fuse.

benreif

Update.....so I have taken everyone's advice and replaced the roter and cap, wasn't it. Then the ignition coil. Wasn't it. Then the ICM and still no go.

The timing belt is not broken as I can see the rooter turning as I crank. So maybe the belt has slipped. At this point I have given up the car is sitting at the mechanic as we speak. I do have to say slot was learned from this experience so I am not feeling regretful about giving up.

Thanks for the help. Ben.

I'll update once I find out the diagnosis.

benreif

One more thought: I am thinking it is not related to the timing belt, rather it is electrical because I am not getting spark at the plug. Even if the timing is off it would still spark at the plug, right? Anyways. I'll post what I have found.

richiepooh

The process that I am using is the process of elimination, what we know is that the belt is in tact, did you say that the ecu main fuse is OK ?... next if you are not getting any spark at the plug wires then try and borrow another distributor and try it. If it starts then you know that the problem is with the distributor. Put the key in the ignition mode and check to see if you get the engine check light. Don't give up man. Also at the end of the fuel rail there is a hose connected to it, this hose leads to the return to the gas tank. Remove the wire clamp and then turn then crank the engine, if no gas is passing through the line at this time, you may have a faulty gas pump.

benreif

I thought that I had replaced everything in the distrubuitor. What else could go bad in the distributor?

ARMED

do a compression check...ask some friends if they have the gauge? (compression)

benreif

Well, the verdict is in. After an hour and a half of investigating by the mechanic, it turns out to be a bad ignition coil fuse.

Nothing could be found to be wrong in the circuitry leading to the coil and I HAD checked the fuse in the initial goings of my process. So what happened was I never disconnected the negative battery cable when I replaced the coil and I caused the 15amp fuse to blow while putting in the new coil. Thus, causing me to not think the coil was the problem; I continued replacing the ICM.

So anyway, problem solved but it was interesting that the mechanic never checked the fuses first. May be I got taken. I don't know. It's over now. Should of checked the fuses again! I guess I'll wait for the next issue to arise and make sure I am more thorugh.

Ben