View Poll Results: Header wrap my downpipe? wrap or not wrap???
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 8. You may not vote on this poll
Wrap or not to wrap... Thats the question!
12-04-2011, 06:36 PM
#1
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Wrap or not to wrap... Thats the question!
As the title says. Wrap or not to wrap? I have my downpipe and dump tube done and I am not sure if I should header wrap them. The downpipe is painted with Flameproof paint and the dump tube is satin finished stainless.
Should I wrap it or not wrap? Factors to address:
1. How much temp reduction will occur?
2. Will the welds under the wrapping become brittle from the constant heat?
3. Will the wrap look shabby over time, unravel or fray?
4. Any other pros or cons?
Should I wrap it or not wrap? Factors to address:
1. How much temp reduction will occur?
2. Will the welds under the wrapping become brittle from the constant heat?
3. Will the wrap look shabby over time, unravel or fray?
4. Any other pros or cons?
12-05-2011, 05:20 AM
#3
DO IT ON ALL FOURS
Re: Wrap or not to wrap... Thats the question!
This has been argued over and over... Some say the wrap is useless - while others swear by it. Some say it rusts the exhaust quicker, others say it does not. Some will argue that it doesn't give a performance gain at all and is a waste of money, but looks "cool".
I think if you wanted a true answer you would have not made a poll but rather sit down and have done some researching. I am not going to go into great detail but explain a few key points that you can look up on your own if you want a more "scientific" explanation. The points made or cons listed aren't in any specific order or as a matter of relevancy...
1.) Turbos thrive off of keeping the air as hot as possible through the exhaust system. The pressure differentials is what helps the turbine spin. (Obviously there is a difference between proper temperature and too hot or too cold.) Most that have run wrap on their header will experience quicker spool times. The key is to have the turbine cover as well - essentially keep the gases hot as possible for as long as possible.
2.) It does have a cooling affect on the engine bay - especially if a turbo blanket is used. How much you ask? Well there is too many variables to actually make a real "quesstiment". I can assure you the temperature reduction will be noticeably different.
3.) The wrap does tend to break down and get brittle on a daily driven/vehicle that is driven hard. It will stay put, but it becomes prone to tearing when handled/bumped with an object. It typically suffers from discoloration - you're black will be gray and possible revert back to white...
4.) When applied properly the welds are actually stronger than the material that is welded to (somewhat reliant on the type of welding). If the setup is done and supported properly you should never experience cracking on your piping. The biggest downfall is cheap metals being used. Another factor in this is how even the wrap was applied. If you overlap too much it can lead to "hot spots". Another problem with not wrapping is cool down. When the metal is hot and potentially glowing and the engine is just shut off, the ambient air might be quite colder and may contain rain or snow; any rapid cool down tends to warp metal. That metal is fixed by bolts and since it isn't allowed to flex thig break. Header wrap helps let the temperature go down a bit more slowly and thus minimizing these stresses.
5.) Vehicles naturally absorb water in the exhaust system as they cool down. The same effect will be amplified when the wrap is put on. Unless the vehicle is driven daily or you live in a nice climate - you should expect a lot of "smoke" when you first start it up after its been sitting for a while and a potentially rusty exhaust system. A lot of this factors on what materials were used. (Your spray painted down pipe IS going to rust.)
6.) There is a smell associated with running header wrap - it tends to decrease with time. Some love it some hate it - regardless it will be there.
7.) If you are sensitive to fiberglass then you should have someone else install it or take necessary precautions while installing it. TIP - Soak it for a while completely submerged until the bubbles stop. This greatly helps with install and somewhat minimizes fiberglass particles in the air and all over.
There is stuff I am sure I have forgotten to mention and can/will list it if more information is wanted. I personally use it on every turbo vehicle I own - both daily drivers and race cars alike. I hope this has inspired you to do some more research on your own. If there is anything else or you want me to actually read what I typed and remember the stuff I didn't list I will, if not have fun.
I think if you wanted a true answer you would have not made a poll but rather sit down and have done some researching. I am not going to go into great detail but explain a few key points that you can look up on your own if you want a more "scientific" explanation. The points made or cons listed aren't in any specific order or as a matter of relevancy...
1.) Turbos thrive off of keeping the air as hot as possible through the exhaust system. The pressure differentials is what helps the turbine spin. (Obviously there is a difference between proper temperature and too hot or too cold.) Most that have run wrap on their header will experience quicker spool times. The key is to have the turbine cover as well - essentially keep the gases hot as possible for as long as possible.
2.) It does have a cooling affect on the engine bay - especially if a turbo blanket is used. How much you ask? Well there is too many variables to actually make a real "quesstiment". I can assure you the temperature reduction will be noticeably different.
3.) The wrap does tend to break down and get brittle on a daily driven/vehicle that is driven hard. It will stay put, but it becomes prone to tearing when handled/bumped with an object. It typically suffers from discoloration - you're black will be gray and possible revert back to white...
4.) When applied properly the welds are actually stronger than the material that is welded to (somewhat reliant on the type of welding). If the setup is done and supported properly you should never experience cracking on your piping. The biggest downfall is cheap metals being used. Another factor in this is how even the wrap was applied. If you overlap too much it can lead to "hot spots". Another problem with not wrapping is cool down. When the metal is hot and potentially glowing and the engine is just shut off, the ambient air might be quite colder and may contain rain or snow; any rapid cool down tends to warp metal. That metal is fixed by bolts and since it isn't allowed to flex thig break. Header wrap helps let the temperature go down a bit more slowly and thus minimizing these stresses.
5.) Vehicles naturally absorb water in the exhaust system as they cool down. The same effect will be amplified when the wrap is put on. Unless the vehicle is driven daily or you live in a nice climate - you should expect a lot of "smoke" when you first start it up after its been sitting for a while and a potentially rusty exhaust system. A lot of this factors on what materials were used. (Your spray painted down pipe IS going to rust.)
6.) There is a smell associated with running header wrap - it tends to decrease with time. Some love it some hate it - regardless it will be there.
7.) If you are sensitive to fiberglass then you should have someone else install it or take necessary precautions while installing it. TIP - Soak it for a while completely submerged until the bubbles stop. This greatly helps with install and somewhat minimizes fiberglass particles in the air and all over.
There is stuff I am sure I have forgotten to mention and can/will list it if more information is wanted. I personally use it on every turbo vehicle I own - both daily drivers and race cars alike. I hope this has inspired you to do some more research on your own. If there is anything else or you want me to actually read what I typed and remember the stuff I didn't list I will, if not have fun.
12-05-2011, 12:15 PM
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Re: Wrap or not to wrap... Thats the question!
If you do wrap it (which I would) just make sure to soak the wrap in water so that it will stick better and it won't unwrap on you as long as there are hose clamps on it.
12-05-2011, 02:21 PM
#5
DO IT ON ALL FOURS
Re: Wrap or not to wrap... Thats the question!
Already stated in #7 of my little "guide". Also hose clamps are the most ghetto way of doing it. Not only that but sometimes more expensive than doing it the "right" way with metal zip-ties. Most parts/ hardware stores sell them in packs. If you do the wrap correctly it will be tight and there will be no need to hold the starting point at all - although I recommend clamping it down after the wrap is complete and the end is secured.
12-05-2011, 05:58 PM
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Re: Wrap or not to wrap... Thats the question!
This has been argued over and over... Some say the wrap is useless - while others swear by it. Some say it rusts the exhaust quicker, others say it does not. Some will argue that it doesn't give a performance gain at all and is a waste of money, but looks "cool".
I think if you wanted a true answer you would have not made a poll but rather sit down and have done some researching. I am not going to go into great detail but explain a few key points that you can look up on your own if you want a more "scientific" explanation. The points made or cons listed aren't in any specific order or as a matter of relevancy...
1.) Turbos thrive off of keeping the air as hot as possible through the exhaust system. The pressure differentials is what helps the turbine spin. (Obviously there is a difference between proper temperature and too hot or too cold.) Most that have run wrap on their header will experience quicker spool times. The key is to have the turbine cover as well - essentially keep the gases hot as possible for as long as possible.
2.) It does have a cooling affect on the engine bay - especially if a turbo blanket is used. How much you ask? Well there is too many variables to actually make a real "quesstiment". I can assure you the temperature reduction will be noticeably different.
3.) The wrap does tend to break down and get brittle on a daily driven/vehicle that is driven hard. It will stay put, but it becomes prone to tearing when handled/bumped with an object. It typically suffers from discoloration - you're black will be gray and possible revert back to white...
4.) When applied properly the welds are actually stronger than the material that is welded to (somewhat reliant on the type of welding). If the setup is done and supported properly you should never experience cracking on your piping. The biggest downfall is cheap metals being used. Another factor in this is how even the wrap was applied. If you overlap too much it can lead to "hot spots". Another problem with not wrapping is cool down. When the metal is hot and potentially glowing and the engine is just shut off, the ambient air might be quite colder and may contain rain or snow; any rapid cool down tends to warp metal. That metal is fixed by bolts and since it isn't allowed to flex thig break. Header wrap helps let the temperature go down a bit more slowly and thus minimizing these stresses.
5.) Vehicles naturally absorb water in the exhaust system as they cool down. The same effect will be amplified when the wrap is put on. Unless the vehicle is driven daily or you live in a nice climate - you should expect a lot of "smoke" when you first start it up after its been sitting for a while and a potentially rusty exhaust system. A lot of this factors on what materials were used. (Your spray painted down pipe IS going to rust.)
6.) There is a smell associated with running header wrap - it tends to decrease with time. Some love it some hate it - regardless it will be there.
7.) If you are sensitive to fiberglass then you should have someone else install it or take necessary precautions while installing it. TIP - Soak it for a while completely submerged until the bubbles stop. This greatly helps with install and somewhat minimizes fiberglass particles in the air and all over.
There is stuff I am sure I have forgotten to mention and can/will list it if more information is wanted. I personally use it on every turbo vehicle I own - both daily drivers and race cars alike. I hope this has inspired you to do some more research on your own. If there is anything else or you want me to actually read what I typed and remember the stuff I didn't list I will, if not have fun.
I think if you wanted a true answer you would have not made a poll but rather sit down and have done some researching. I am not going to go into great detail but explain a few key points that you can look up on your own if you want a more "scientific" explanation. The points made or cons listed aren't in any specific order or as a matter of relevancy...
1.) Turbos thrive off of keeping the air as hot as possible through the exhaust system. The pressure differentials is what helps the turbine spin. (Obviously there is a difference between proper temperature and too hot or too cold.) Most that have run wrap on their header will experience quicker spool times. The key is to have the turbine cover as well - essentially keep the gases hot as possible for as long as possible.
2.) It does have a cooling affect on the engine bay - especially if a turbo blanket is used. How much you ask? Well there is too many variables to actually make a real "quesstiment". I can assure you the temperature reduction will be noticeably different.
3.) The wrap does tend to break down and get brittle on a daily driven/vehicle that is driven hard. It will stay put, but it becomes prone to tearing when handled/bumped with an object. It typically suffers from discoloration - you're black will be gray and possible revert back to white...
4.) When applied properly the welds are actually stronger than the material that is welded to (somewhat reliant on the type of welding). If the setup is done and supported properly you should never experience cracking on your piping. The biggest downfall is cheap metals being used. Another factor in this is how even the wrap was applied. If you overlap too much it can lead to "hot spots". Another problem with not wrapping is cool down. When the metal is hot and potentially glowing and the engine is just shut off, the ambient air might be quite colder and may contain rain or snow; any rapid cool down tends to warp metal. That metal is fixed by bolts and since it isn't allowed to flex thig break. Header wrap helps let the temperature go down a bit more slowly and thus minimizing these stresses.
5.) Vehicles naturally absorb water in the exhaust system as they cool down. The same effect will be amplified when the wrap is put on. Unless the vehicle is driven daily or you live in a nice climate - you should expect a lot of "smoke" when you first start it up after its been sitting for a while and a potentially rusty exhaust system. A lot of this factors on what materials were used. (Your spray painted down pipe IS going to rust.)
6.) There is a smell associated with running header wrap - it tends to decrease with time. Some love it some hate it - regardless it will be there.
7.) If you are sensitive to fiberglass then you should have someone else install it or take necessary precautions while installing it. TIP - Soak it for a while completely submerged until the bubbles stop. This greatly helps with install and somewhat minimizes fiberglass particles in the air and all over.
There is stuff I am sure I have forgotten to mention and can/will list it if more information is wanted. I personally use it on every turbo vehicle I own - both daily drivers and race cars alike. I hope this has inspired you to do some more research on your own. If there is anything else or you want me to actually read what I typed and remember the stuff I didn't list I will, if not have fun.
YES, hose clams are super ghetto! I have metal zip ties and plenty of new wrap. Thanks for your input.
12-05-2011, 06:15 PM
#7
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Re: Wrap or not to wrap... Thats the question!
Dude I was watching a how to from DEI header wrap and they even said to use hose clamps not the flimsy little metal ties that it comes with. So even if you guys think hose clamps are "ghetto" I'm pretty sure they do a better job of staying on then what the kits usally come with. Only thing you might be able to say is that they dont look as "baller"
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12-05-2011, 07:59 PM
#8
Re: Wrap or not to wrap... Thats the question!
I agree the wrap is a good idea, mainly for underhood temps. I also believe the metal ties are not as good as quality hose clamps. They are typically smaller and more difficult to tighten, and can not be adjusted or reused. I'm running stainless hose clamps with no issues. I also wrapped my a/c lines with it after I took this pic:
12-06-2011, 03:55 AM
#9
DO IT ON ALL FOURS
Re: Wrap or not to wrap... Thats the question!
If you do the wrap correctly the first time you should never have to rewrap or adjust a thing. Also - when we are talking thousands in aftermarket parts - what's $20? Regardless, the metal zip-ties look so much better and hold just as well when applied properly. Don't get me wrong, if you don't know what you are doing they can be a major PITA to work with - especially when compared to hose clamps. So I guess let me slightly reiterate what I was getting at - hose clamps look ghetto. Compared to an alternative that functions just as well when installed correctly. If you like the above picture better than the one below - then I guess that is just your taste. (Also, show me one picture in DEI's catalog where they have hose clamps on their wrap - they may have put it in a video (so you say) but when you look at their product line even they themselves sell the metal zip-ties. I don't see anywhere that they sell hose clamps...
http://www.designengineering.com/cat...l-locking-ties
http://www.designengineering.com/cat...l-locking-ties
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