Why is my wheel not centered in the wheelwell?
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Why is my wheel not centered in the wheelwell?
Just picked up a 91 honda crx si, i'm pretty new to cars, always had toyota trucks, but got this little gem for $200. Anyway, the front driverside wheel seems to be about 1 to 1.5 inches farther back in the wheelwell (it's much closer to the firewall) than the passenger side. Does anyone know what might cause that other than frame damage? everything looks straight and there isn't any signs of an accident that i can see. Could the thrust rod that connects to the lower control arm be that far out of whack? What are your ideas? Thanks
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Re: Why is my wheel not centered in the wheelwell? (flipt86)
Maybe the previous owner whacked a curb.
I've seen it happen. Sometimes it really ***** things up steering/suspension wise.
Do your tires wear quickly or do you notice the car pulling one way or the other?
I've seen it happen. Sometimes it really ***** things up steering/suspension wise.
Do your tires wear quickly or do you notice the car pulling one way or the other?
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Re: Why is my wheel not centered in the wheelwell? (Tippyman)
Thanks Tippy, but unfortunately it has no engine...well we just got the b16a in it tonight, but i haven't driven it and it will be a week or so before i get everything buttoned up. I was just wondering what might be bent so that i could try and fix it. Everything looks straight and lines up ok, we just put new struts and springs on it and everything was easy to get on and off. Any other ideas? Anyone had this happen to them?
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Re: (SkipMic2006)
Most likely:
-Front cross member is bent and pushed back. (can easily be replaced with traction bar)
-Lower control arm (where lower balljoint is connected) is bent back. (easy to replace).
Less Likely:
-Knuckle is bent. (can be replaced pretty easily).
-Rear crossmember is bent where LCA connects. (can be replaced but its a bit of bitch to get out)
-Uppar A-arm is bent. (easily replaced).
Also possible but would suck:
-Part(s) of the unibody (frame) are bent.
Hope that helps.
-Front cross member is bent and pushed back. (can easily be replaced with traction bar)
-Lower control arm (where lower balljoint is connected) is bent back. (easy to replace).
Less Likely:
-Knuckle is bent. (can be replaced pretty easily).
-Rear crossmember is bent where LCA connects. (can be replaced but its a bit of bitch to get out)
-Uppar A-arm is bent. (easily replaced).
Also possible but would suck:
-Part(s) of the unibody (frame) are bent.
Hope that helps.
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Re: (djphonics)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djphonics »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most likely:
-Front cross member is bent and pushed back. (can easily be replaced with traction bar)
-Lower control arm (where lower balljoint is connected) is bent back. (easy to replace).
Less Likely:
-Knuckle is bent. (can be replaced pretty easily).
-Rear crossmember is bent where LCA connects. (can be replaced but its a bit of bitch to get out)
-Uppar A-arm is bent. (easily replaced).
Also possible but would suck:
-Part(s) of the unibody (frame) are bent.
Hope that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Couldn't have said it better myself.
-Front cross member is bent and pushed back. (can easily be replaced with traction bar)
-Lower control arm (where lower balljoint is connected) is bent back. (easy to replace).
Less Likely:
-Knuckle is bent. (can be replaced pretty easily).
-Rear crossmember is bent where LCA connects. (can be replaced but its a bit of bitch to get out)
-Uppar A-arm is bent. (easily replaced).
Also possible but would suck:
-Part(s) of the unibody (frame) are bent.
Hope that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Couldn't have said it better myself.
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#9
Re: (KFBhonda)
check the radius rods, and thier bushings. They connect in the front through holes in the front crossmember. The bushings are most likely in need of replacement anyways. Should be $10-$15 for new ones from Energy Suspension.
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