Matt1600

I'm wiring a DPFI 91 4 door using this write up http://tech.hybridgarage.com/t...g.htm Has anyone used this and succeeded?
I'm following the pinouts as if A1 pin's on top then A2 is under and A3 is on top next to A1 etc. Is this correct? I'm actually in the middle of doing this so everyone's prompt responses would be appreciated. Thanx in advance
Matt

bambam

the search function is ur best friend...

yes the way you described the pin layout is correct.

wires and where they go:

blue/yellow - c2
blue/green -c1

org -b10
wht- b12

julio_b00stamante

sweet man! 4 doors rock and i own one so i know! heres is the link to the info i used hope this helps

http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/mpfi.html

Matt1600

COOL!!! Thanx, I needed the reassurance.

Matt

tilt

I used the info in this link too. It's the best one out there imo.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by julio_b00stamante &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/mpfi.html</TD></TR></TABLE>

dbailey

Question - I have heard that JUST doing this conversion really doesn't result in much if any added power. True or False? I have a 1990 Civic 4 door LX with the stock engine in it. Thanks.

bambam

it'' give you about 10-15 HP. That may not seem like alot to you but it is for a SOHC motor. Don't forgot that if you EVER plan on swapping ANY motor into ur civic, you're gonna have to do it anyway. In english this means that if you ever plan on NOT being SLOW and being FAST...you must convert to mpfi.

ponchep3

do the dpfi to mpfi conversion, then also install the cam from a 89-91 si. it has a little bit longer duration of valve lift, and works real nice for acceleration. i did this to my 91 4dr lx and it rocks compared to what i had. my suggestion for low budget swaps would be dpfi to mpfi, si cam (make sure its non-vtec), header, intake and short shifter. its relatively cheap and sets you up really nice for future swaps

4drEF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dbailey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question - I have heard that JUST doing this conversion really doesn't result in much if any added power. True or False? I have a 1990 Civic 4 door LX with the stock engine in it. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depending on what you consider "much if any added power".
It's not like adding a turbo, but it does breathe some new pep into an old motor.

MPFI also responds better to bolt-on's better than DPFI does.
Adding a cam, intake, exhaust, etc. and some fuel and timing tuning generates a better dyno sheet than a DPFI.

Matt1600

So you guys have actually followed those exact directions and it worked? I did what it said and the ECU doesn't turn on at all. No power what-so-ever. The engine turns, but no spark and no ECU power. I checked the Main Relay and nothing. Could it be a problem with my wiring? Is it possible I shorted something?

mengo_charged

You sure your ECU is good?

Matt1600

I think it is. I'll try an 90 LS ECU. Any other suggestions?

mengo_charged

Uh, I don't think you should try a 90 LS ecu, try either an HF, Si, or 88-89 Integra ecu.

bambam

a 90 ls computer is fine to fire it up....all but a few of the pins are in the exact same location because it is obd0. Only a few pins are different but they do not relate to ur swap such as fuel pressure reg cutoff solenoid, and power steering switch along with some other minute differences. It should work fine.

Matt1600

Ok, found the problem. It was missing the MAIN RELAY, it must've gotten jacked when the car was at the other mechanic. Either way, there's power to the ECU and I cranked it and it almost started, but it sounds like crap. I thought the timing was off but it looks good. There's fuel so the wiring's ****. Now just gotta figure out why it's stuttering and firing all crazy like. O2 sensor's off, I'll check all the vacuum lines and sensors.

Matt

bambam

the ecu isn't tossing any codes?

4drEF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Matt1600 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> O2 sensor's off, I'll check all the vacuum lines and sensors.

Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>

Put that O2 on!!!

x4thGenCafe

none of the links are working and i need em

consti2tion

4G DX to ZC wiring conversion
by Kenji Plennert


In order to convert your dual point injection DX to multi-point injection you will need 4 injector plugs, an injector resistor box, extra wire, a wire stripper/cutter, heatshrink and/or electrical tape, and some patience. Also, when doing this conversion I would highly recommend soldering all connections and heatshrinking them. If you do not have access to heatshrink neatly wrapped electrical tape will do just fine. It is also extremely helpful to have an extra multi-point injection engine harness laying around to take plugs from (i.e. injector plugs, injector resistor box plug, and distributor plug). Listed below is a straightforward and easy to follow set of instructions to help you complete your DX to ZC swap:
DX to ZC

Inside car at the ECU plug:

- Pins B10 and B12 are empty. Unused pins can be taken from B2 or B11. Some models have a wire located at B12.

- Cut orange and white wires off at C1 and C2 and connect them to wires added at B10 and B12. Orange-B10. White-B12. Leave enough wire for next step.

- Run wires from C1 and C2 (direct ECU connection) into the engine compartment. Label these wires for later use.

- Cut wires at A3 and A7 leaving plenty of wire. Run these wires into the engine compartment and label them for later use.

Outside car

- Transfer DX wiring harness over to ZC engine.

- TPS and EACV plugs are too short and must be extended.

- Be sure to switch green/white and yellow/white wires on TPS

Injectors and injector resistor box

- Connect the yellow/black wires from the two DX injector harnesses and run it to the yellow/black wire on the injector resistor box.

- Connect the yellow wire from the DX injector to the #1 injector (brown wire).

- Connect the red wire from the DX injector and run it to the #3 injector (blue wire).

- Connect the A3 wire to the #2 injector (red wire).

- Connect the A7 wire to the #4 injector (yellow wire).

- Connect the 4 red/black wires from injector resistor box to each injector.

Cylinder position sensor

- Connect C1 to blue/green wire on cylinder position sensor plug.
- Connect C2 to blue/yellow wire on cylinder position sensor plug.

Thats it. Double check everything and start it up. Good luck!

x4thGenCafe

help ?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2177227


i did all these steps and im not getting spark.

Matt1600

jesus mary and joseph my login still works. Dam it's been like 3 years since i been here. I just wanted to let you know this "mickey mouse" rigging of the wires DOES NOT WORK!!! I did exactly what the direction said and dude ended up just swapping wiring harnesses. expletivein embarassing got in a fight over this. LATES!

disableddan

Ok now I'm curious-
I just got an Si harness and dizzy yesterday at pick n pull... no ecu though someone beat me to it :D So if I get an Si ecu I) would be able to just swap the complete harness right? I'd rather do that than cut and splice wires, personally.

My_EFsedan

i just did an LS swap and did a MPFI on my cousins Sedan LX. everything worked fine, 1st start up no codes.

i used
http://www.angelfire.com/d20/h....html

onecamsinclair

ok i still have a dual point motor just trhowing on a z6 intake mani on it i have the pigtails and injectors and i have a resistor box from a prelude wondering if anyone had a diagram or anything to help me outt

YoBj

Used it and it worked great. but i had someone help me that knew everything.