4g4dcruisin

D16a6, done this twice before. Don't know what the issue is now but I've removed the bottom two bolts for the bracket where the IM connects to the block. Cannot remove the top bolt for that bracket since the bolt head is stripped.

Removed the head studs, spark plugs, all hoses and wires. I've pried at certain areas but it isn't budging.

I can't take off the IM since the middle bolt is stripped as well. I have to take it all off in one piece.

4drEF

You probably missed a head stud.
How many did you get out?

4g4dcruisin

All of them, either 10 or 12 don't remember how many total. But I know I got them all. There aren't any bolts left.

4drEF

Should be 10.
Should tap around the sides of the head with a rubber mallet.
Head should pop off.

The bracket is completely unbolted from the IM or from the engine?
I wasn't clear on your description.
It needs to be completely disconnected from one or the other.

Assuming your timing belt is also removed.

Even with the IM attached, the head should break free.
All you have left are the dowel pins.

4g4dcruisin

The IM bracket is removed from the engine. But still attached to the IM.

4drEF

Then nothing is holding you back.

Time for the mallet!

4g4dcruisin

The PCV valve got busted in the process, and the iacv hose is still attached but I'll try it later. Its freezing here right now.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

I might be wrong but there should be just barely enough room to pry right above the transmission. It shouldn't take much and as soon as it starts to move you should be able to wiggle the head off.

4g4dcruisin

I don't know haha. I also think this is the first head gasket job on this car.so much gunk and **** with 250k miles.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Did you forget the timing belt? LOL

4g4dcruisin

Haha no I got that off. Really not sure.

Vtec-KART

Pictures might help, I got caught on the engine harness somewhere. Pull straight up on each side and see where your tension is coming from and look around that side.

4g4dcruisin

There is no tension, it just doesn't move, like its bolted still.

Vtec-KART

IDK man, thats extremely odd. Above discussed IM, what about headers? Fully off? All head-bolts in hand? Otherwise..... ur F'd lol

stackedhouse

Bfh

tonylovesjdmEF9

what part of riverside your in ???>>>>i live of country village and the 60fwy maybe i could swing by and help you out? thats if i dont have to do caltrans tomorrow lol

DCRB

have you removed the power steering bracket? it bolts both to the head and to the motor mount which is bolted to the block

4g4dcruisin

I'm actually in the high desert. I've removed two other heads on ef's recently and never had this problem. The header is off, all power steering brackets and even driver side motor mount since I need to do timing. I'll bang on it with a mallet or something but I'm stuck big time.

RuneRavenX

I agree with the rubber mallet, or take a flathead and wrap it in a rag. put it in an exhaust port and yank up a few times. if everything is unbolted, I promise that those methods will break it loose. if it has never been removed before then it will feel like it is bolted in. trust me, just follow suggestions.


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4g4dcruisin

Rubber mallet trick worked.

I got the thing off, half of the gasket is stuck onto the bottom of the head, nothing is on the block. There is also some rust in the cylinders and on a couple of the valves. Once I suck everything out with a shop vac, and use a light brush to clean off the valves, should I be able to fire up with no problem? Or is there a chance of the rust seizing against the piston walls?

Also, anything you could recommend to take off the residue for the gasket?

I broke the pcv valve in the process, and had a cut a couple of small hoses that were in a bad spot, but overall I think it looks ok, no noticeable cracks.

4g4dcruisin

Real quick, I think I'm going to replace the head with another single cam. I want to just keep the a6 block and get a z6 head that I've found for $70 on craigslist. I've had a mini me setup in the past that was completely wired up so I had to do nothing, but my question is; if I wanted to use the z6 head, what would be the bare minimum that I'd need to do in order to get it running?

The wagon has an a6 engine with mpfi stock, can't I just use the a6 IM and fuel rail/injectors and run it this way? That way I don't have to worry about switching over to an obd1 dizzy.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

How bad is the rust? If it's strictly surface rust, you can probably get away with some PB blaster or Liquid Wrench and a rag. If it's actually encrusted in there (eating into the metal) I'd personally hone or even bore it out one size up.

For the head swap idea, you can do that literal 1 for 1 head swap and keep it pre OBD BUT the Z1/Z6 heads have their own unique distributor flange pattern. Something to consider before you commit.

**not sure how the PM6 ecu will like the non-VTEC lobes but I've seen it done

4drEF

There is gasket remover that you can buy from an auto parts store.
Paint stripper has about the same effect.
Both will require razor blade or paint scrapper to get the residual stuck on stuff off.
Can gouge the head surface if you aren't super careful.

Ro-loc discs work great.
Basically scotch-brite pads on a die-grinder.
If you sit in any area for an excessive amount of time, you can wear down the aluminum.
Mild scratch finish.

Best thing I have used has been this bit that has rubber fingers on it.
Several companies sell these.
Rubber fingers that rip the gasket off, but not gritty enough to damage metal surface.
http://agricultural-industrial-suppl...ristle-discs-2
Get everything you can off with the liquid gasket remover and then clean the rest off with these.


For your rust, probably no damage done.
It's more than likely just surface rust.
Problem rust is when it gets into the metal and makes pits.
Get some fogging oil and spray everything down while you have it apart and are working on it.

4g4dcruisin

Up here in the high desert I found a ZC head for $40, pictures of the valves show black carbon build up on some of the valves, but the rocker arms all look good so I think I'm going to take a chance.

4g4dcruisin

Quick question, anyone know what I would ask for at vato zone when looking for the hoses that attach to the IACV? or is it the FITV? not sure...either way at the rear on the IM, there are two hoses and one had to be cut due to being stuck.