Searched:Quickest way to replace headgasket.
04-28-2006, 09:09 AM
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Searched:Quickest way to replace headgasket.
The only thinkI was able to find was in the archives of the 92-00 Civic Forum on how to replace a headgasket on a Z6 or Y8.
I am not sure but I thought the D15B2 is a different motor.
Anyways, What the easiest way to replace the headgasket without having to remove EVERYTHING from the head? I know I should get the head checked, but I jsut need something to get to and from work for a couple weeks. By then I should have all my parts for the Mini-Me conversion.
Is there a brace holding the intake manifold onto the block? Can I just pop the head off, lean it back, pull the old gasket out (cleaning the block and head surfaces) and then copper-seal a new OEM gasket back on? Or should I take the head completely out of the engine bay and have it resurfaced? I am sure it isnt in too bad of shape, it only leaks coolant at high temps.
Well, any help will be appreciated, but I need to find the fastest way to do this, I need my car by tomorrow night.
I am not sure but I thought the D15B2 is a different motor.
Anyways, What the easiest way to replace the headgasket without having to remove EVERYTHING from the head? I know I should get the head checked, but I jsut need something to get to and from work for a couple weeks. By then I should have all my parts for the Mini-Me conversion.
Is there a brace holding the intake manifold onto the block? Can I just pop the head off, lean it back, pull the old gasket out (cleaning the block and head surfaces) and then copper-seal a new OEM gasket back on? Or should I take the head completely out of the engine bay and have it resurfaced? I am sure it isnt in too bad of shape, it only leaks coolant at high temps.
Well, any help will be appreciated, but I need to find the fastest way to do this, I need my car by tomorrow night.
.
04-28-2006, 02:11 PM
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Re: Searched:Quickest way to replace headgasket. (Blanket Jackson)
It is best to have the head checked. You need to make sure that the surface is not warped. Yes, there is a bracket on the intake manifold connecting it to the block. I suggest that you dont half *** this because you dont want to do it twice. Do it right the first time. You should have them check the head for any leaks and resurface it if needed. Its also best to buy a OEM headgasket if you dont plan on doing any modifications to the engine.
04-28-2006, 02:14 PM
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Re: Searched:Quickest way to replace headgasket. (nicks_jdmstyle_ef9)
You can refer to the manuel when torqueing down the head. You always want to tighten from the inside to outside. If your car had been overheating you most likely warped the head. If it was not everheaing then it should be ok but its best to make sure anyway.
04-28-2006, 04:38 PM
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The way that i have done them is:
Turn the motor to tdc #1 and then take white out and mark the timing belt and cam gear for location.
Drain the oil and coolant.
Remove plugs, hoses, cables, ect
Remove the timing belt from the cam gear.
Unbolt exhaust manifold/header
Remove dizzy and plug wires (rember the firing order (1,3,4,2))
Remove the bracket under the intake manifold
Then remove valve cover (You can also remove the intake manifold if wanted right now but i have allways just left it on till out of the car) and loosen the headbolts in order. Once all of them are loose then take them out. The head might be stuck there just gently pull on it to seperate it from the block. This is were the fluid drain comes into play. If you didnt drain the fluid you will get oil and antifreeze into your cylinders and more importantly into your headbolt holes. The cylinder is a little easier to clean but if it gets into your head bolts and you dont get all of it out when you retorque the head it can crack the block or break the headbolt. Once the head is off, take a gasket scraper and clean the deck of the block once again making sure not to get anything into the cylinders or bolt holes. Do the same to the head. It is better to take the head in and get it checked for warping. You can also replace your intake manifold gasket if needed right now while its out of the car. Once the block and head are clean and you have everything to reassemble the motor go ahead and start. I highly recommend getting new head bolts. The old ones have mileage on them and are streched out and have a higher chance of breaking when torqueing them. You dont want the get the head put back on and then break the last one. Before you set the head on make sure that the clyinders and bolt holes are clean. The way that i have found easiest to put the head back on is take two head bolts and set them in the center two holes in the head. have a friend help you line the gasket up with those holes and then set the head down. Get all of the head bold in hand tight and then begin to torque them. Rember torque them to 20-22lbs and then to i believe 49 ( <--Not 100% sure been a while since i have done one) in the proper order. Once the head is torqued go ahead and reassemble the motor.When finished dont forget to put in new oil and antifreeze. Do one last check over everything and you should be good to go.
Turn the motor to tdc #1 and then take white out and mark the timing belt and cam gear for location.
Drain the oil and coolant.
Remove plugs, hoses, cables, ect
Remove the timing belt from the cam gear.
Unbolt exhaust manifold/header
Remove dizzy and plug wires (rember the firing order (1,3,4,2))
Remove the bracket under the intake manifold
Then remove valve cover (You can also remove the intake manifold if wanted right now but i have allways just left it on till out of the car) and loosen the headbolts in order. Once all of them are loose then take them out. The head might be stuck there just gently pull on it to seperate it from the block. This is were the fluid drain comes into play. If you didnt drain the fluid you will get oil and antifreeze into your cylinders and more importantly into your headbolt holes. The cylinder is a little easier to clean but if it gets into your head bolts and you dont get all of it out when you retorque the head it can crack the block or break the headbolt. Once the head is off, take a gasket scraper and clean the deck of the block once again making sure not to get anything into the cylinders or bolt holes. Do the same to the head. It is better to take the head in and get it checked for warping. You can also replace your intake manifold gasket if needed right now while its out of the car. Once the block and head are clean and you have everything to reassemble the motor go ahead and start. I highly recommend getting new head bolts. The old ones have mileage on them and are streched out and have a higher chance of breaking when torqueing them. You dont want the get the head put back on and then break the last one. Before you set the head on make sure that the clyinders and bolt holes are clean. The way that i have found easiest to put the head back on is take two head bolts and set them in the center two holes in the head. have a friend help you line the gasket up with those holes and then set the head down. Get all of the head bold in hand tight and then begin to torque them. Rember torque them to 20-22lbs and then to i believe 49 ( <--Not 100% sure been a while since i have done one) in the proper order. Once the head is torqued go ahead and reassemble the motor.When finished dont forget to put in new oil and antifreeze. Do one last check over everything and you should be good to go.
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04-28-2006, 06:04 PM
#8
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (h224thgensedan)
//www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1100617
There is the new torque sequence.
Here is a pretty nice thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1456031&page=1
If you have any more questions ask. I just started my car for the first time tuesday after changing my headgasket.
It would probably be good for you to pick up a manual and read that a couple times so you know what you are doing a little more.
There is the new torque sequence.
Here is a pretty nice thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1456031&page=1
If you have any more questions ask. I just started my car for the first time tuesday after changing my headgasket.
It would probably be good for you to pick up a manual and read that a couple times so you know what you are doing a little more.
04-28-2006, 11:47 PM
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Re: Searched:Quickest way to replace headgasket. (Blanket Jackson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h224thgensedan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The way that i have done them is:
Turn the motor to tdc #1 and then take white out and mark the timing belt and cam gear for location.
Drain the oil and coolant.
Remove plugs, hoses, cables, ect
Remove the timing belt from the cam gear.
Unbolt exhaust manifold/header
Remove dizzy and plug wires (rember the firing order (1,3,4,2))
Remove the bracket under the intake manifold
Then remove valve cover (You can also remove the intake manifold if wanted right now but i have allways just left it on till out of the car) and loosen the headbolts in order. Once all of them are loose then take them out. The head might be stuck there just gently pull on it to seperate it from the block. This is were the fluid drain comes into play. If you didnt drain the fluid you will get oil and antifreeze into your cylinders and more importantly into your headbolt holes. The cylinder is a little easier to clean but if it gets into your head bolts and you dont get all of it out when you retorque the head it can crack the block or break the headbolt. Once the head is off, take a gasket scraper and clean the deck of the block once again making sure not to get anything into the cylinders or bolt holes. Do the same to the head. It is better to take the head in and get it checked for warping. You can also replace your intake manifold gasket if needed right now while its out of the car. Once the block and head are clean and you have everything to reassemble the motor go ahead and start. I highly recommend getting new head bolts. The old ones have mileage on them and are streched out and have a higher chance of breaking when torqueing them. You dont want the get the head put back on and then break the last one. Before you set the head on make sure that the clyinders and bolt holes are clean. The way that i have found easiest to put the head back on is take two head bolts and set them in the center two holes in the head. have a friend help you line the gasket up with those holes and then set the head down. Get all of the head bold in hand tight and then begin to torque them. Rember torque them to 20-22lbs and then to i believe 49 ( <--Not 100% sure been a while since i have done one) in the proper order. Once the head is torqued go ahead and reassemble the motor.When finished dont forget to put in new oil and antifreeze. Do one last check over everything and you should be good to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He asked if there was an easy way to do it?? Your explanation is not an easy way to do it. I dont understand why you posted a complete "how to".
Turn the motor to tdc #1 and then take white out and mark the timing belt and cam gear for location.
Drain the oil and coolant.
Remove plugs, hoses, cables, ect
Remove the timing belt from the cam gear.
Unbolt exhaust manifold/header
Remove dizzy and plug wires (rember the firing order (1,3,4,2))
Remove the bracket under the intake manifold
Then remove valve cover (You can also remove the intake manifold if wanted right now but i have allways just left it on till out of the car) and loosen the headbolts in order. Once all of them are loose then take them out. The head might be stuck there just gently pull on it to seperate it from the block. This is were the fluid drain comes into play. If you didnt drain the fluid you will get oil and antifreeze into your cylinders and more importantly into your headbolt holes. The cylinder is a little easier to clean but if it gets into your head bolts and you dont get all of it out when you retorque the head it can crack the block or break the headbolt. Once the head is off, take a gasket scraper and clean the deck of the block once again making sure not to get anything into the cylinders or bolt holes. Do the same to the head. It is better to take the head in and get it checked for warping. You can also replace your intake manifold gasket if needed right now while its out of the car. Once the block and head are clean and you have everything to reassemble the motor go ahead and start. I highly recommend getting new head bolts. The old ones have mileage on them and are streched out and have a higher chance of breaking when torqueing them. You dont want the get the head put back on and then break the last one. Before you set the head on make sure that the clyinders and bolt holes are clean. The way that i have found easiest to put the head back on is take two head bolts and set them in the center two holes in the head. have a friend help you line the gasket up with those holes and then set the head down. Get all of the head bold in hand tight and then begin to torque them. Rember torque them to 20-22lbs and then to i believe 49 ( <--Not 100% sure been a while since i have done one) in the proper order. Once the head is torqued go ahead and reassemble the motor.When finished dont forget to put in new oil and antifreeze. Do one last check over everything and you should be good to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He asked if there was an easy way to do it?? Your explanation is not an easy way to do it. I dont understand why you posted a complete "how to".
04-29-2006, 12:51 AM
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Re: Searched:Quickest way to replace headgasket. (nicks_jdmstyle_ef9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nicks_jdmstyle_ef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He asked if there was an easy way to do it?? Your explanation is not an easy way to do it. I dont understand why you posted a complete "how to". </TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL... that IS the easy way to do it, unless you can think of a way to remove the head gasket without removing the head, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold.
LOL... that IS the easy way to do it, unless you can think of a way to remove the head gasket without removing the head, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold.
04-29-2006, 08:42 AM
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Re: (cbrxgator)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cbrxgator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fastest way would be magic... 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or animal sacrifice
"Satan changed my head gasket and all I got was this stupid t-shirt."
</TD></TR></TABLE>Or animal sacrifice
"Satan changed my head gasket and all I got was this stupid t-shirt."
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