Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
03-20-2017, 06:12 AM
#77
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
yea dude its running and im happy as hell that it is
but its not running good enough that i can drive it everyday yet
but im close ^_-
my dizzy is a brand new one from advance auto and im going to get a warrenty swap today
and yup they dont have my dizzy in stock so they have to order it
it should be here in about three days and hopefully it works and i can rev the car past 3k
my top speed right now is 65mph in 5th gear with the rpms at 2900 haha
if i give it anymore gas the motor starts cutting out
ima get some pics up later today of the header gap and alt gap i left so everyone can see
but its not running good enough that i can drive it everyday yet
but im close ^_-
my dizzy is a brand new one from advance auto and im going to get a warrenty swap today
and yup they dont have my dizzy in stock so they have to order it
it should be here in about three days and hopefully it works and i can rev the car past 3k
my top speed right now is 65mph in 5th gear with the rpms at 2900 haha
if i give it anymore gas the motor starts cutting out
ima get some pics up later today of the header gap and alt gap i left so everyone can see
03-21-2017, 05:42 PM
#78
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
well today i got my new dizzy in and installed
and the car started but about a second later the code came back
so now im thinking its not the dizzy but the wiring
so tomorrow im going back and rechecking
this is the only thing keeping me from hitting the freeways
anyway its update time
i got my shifter panal sprayed
installed with a oem shift boot
and heres that check engine light i wish was gone
and the exhaust is too loud for my taste
its probebly perfect for alot of people
but since i plan on going long distance with the car i want the exhaust to be as quiet as possible
right now i have 2 inch pipeing one resonator thats about 3 years old and my new 84 ford mustang muffler with 2 inch inlet and outlets
im thinking of adding a cherrybomb to the mix to quiet the noise down a bit more
i might even add two cherrybombs and replace my old resonator with one
more updates soon
more updates
and the car started but about a second later the code came back
so now im thinking its not the dizzy but the wiring
so tomorrow im going back and rechecking
this is the only thing keeping me from hitting the freeways
anyway its update time
i got my shifter panal sprayed
installed with a oem shift boot
and heres that check engine light i wish was gone
and the exhaust is too loud for my taste
its probebly perfect for alot of people
but since i plan on going long distance with the car i want the exhaust to be as quiet as possible
right now i have 2 inch pipeing one resonator thats about 3 years old and my new 84 ford mustang muffler with 2 inch inlet and outlets
im thinking of adding a cherrybomb to the mix to quiet the noise down a bit more
i might even add two cherrybombs and replace my old resonator with one
more updates soon
more updates
03-22-2017, 04:36 PM
#79
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
my exhaust had that annoying honda rasp at 2750 rpm and up
so today i added the first cherrybomb to it and the rasp is gone now
it sounds good
i also went over the wiring at the dizzy and at the ecu
and everything checks out
i should add that when ruuning arrends around town
driving short periods and turning the car off and ten minutes later turning it back on and going again
the code will go away for about 3 minutes
giving me the chance to rev past 3k
but the code is still coming back
sometimes a second after the car starts up
its on its second new dizzy so im thinking of looking for another ecu now
but im up for ideas?
so today i added the first cherrybomb to it and the rasp is gone now
it sounds good
i also went over the wiring at the dizzy and at the ecu
and everything checks out
i should add that when ruuning arrends around town
driving short periods and turning the car off and ten minutes later turning it back on and going again
the code will go away for about 3 minutes
giving me the chance to rev past 3k
but the code is still coming back
sometimes a second after the car starts up
its on its second new dizzy so im thinking of looking for another ecu now
but im up for ideas?
03-24-2017, 05:15 AM
#81
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
come on ss i really dont see how a sensor on the tb could have anything to do with this haha
but ill keep it in mind
yesterday i did a simple test
the test was switching out my pr4 a01 ecu for the old pm5 ecu
now my old ecu is only ment to run two intectors and its also an auto ecu
so i know it would be a hard start and the car wouldnt run right
but my only goal was to see if i could get the car to rev past 3k
and yes it did
i reved it to 4k 4 or 6 times then killed the car
an hour later i ordered a new ecu this time im going with a pr4 L10
so now we play the waiting game again
but in the mean time im going to get started with my trunk lid
stay tuned
but ill keep it in mind
yesterday i did a simple test
the test was switching out my pr4 a01 ecu for the old pm5 ecu
now my old ecu is only ment to run two intectors and its also an auto ecu
so i know it would be a hard start and the car wouldnt run right
but my only goal was to see if i could get the car to rev past 3k
and yes it did
i reved it to 4k 4 or 6 times then killed the car
an hour later i ordered a new ecu this time im going with a pr4 L10
so now we play the waiting game again
but in the mean time im going to get started with my trunk lid
stay tuned
03-24-2017, 06:31 PM
#83
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
ill tell you what ss if the new ecu doesnt fix the check engine light limp mode problem
ill look into the tb sound good! haha
alright i finley got those clearence pics i promised so enjoy
first the 1/4 inch gap i left on the headers
also the added metal to make the crossmember stronger
the alt gap i left after bashing in the wall
its about a 1/2 inch between pulley and wall
and you can move the alt all the way back so removal is normal
and heres my own custom throttle cable bracket
used the stock bracket in the mix
and its made with 1/8 thick steel so it will last forever ^_-
one thing i need to fix now is my driver side headlight vibrates more than normal now because of the mounts for the swap
and the headlight rattles and it makes a really loud and annoying rattle sound the whole time the cars on
so tomorrow thats getting taken apart to see whats loose
more updates soon
ill look into the tb sound good! haha
alright i finley got those clearence pics i promised so enjoy
first the 1/4 inch gap i left on the headers
also the added metal to make the crossmember stronger
the alt gap i left after bashing in the wall
its about a 1/2 inch between pulley and wall
and you can move the alt all the way back so removal is normal
and heres my own custom throttle cable bracket
used the stock bracket in the mix
and its made with 1/8 thick steel so it will last forever ^_-
one thing i need to fix now is my driver side headlight vibrates more than normal now because of the mounts for the swap
and the headlight rattles and it makes a really loud and annoying rattle sound the whole time the cars on
so tomorrow thats getting taken apart to see whats loose
more updates soon
03-26-2017, 01:22 PM
#84
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
today was the messing with my exhaust to get rid of the rasp day
went with a 26 inch cherry bomb
so i did some measuring and cut out a peace and welded in the cherry
rasp is gone but i think its still too loud
will see what happens when i can hit highway speeds
more updates soon
went with a 26 inch cherry bomb
so i did some measuring and cut out a peace and welded in the cherry
rasp is gone but i think its still too loud
will see what happens when i can hit highway speeds
more updates soon
03-31-2017, 04:44 PM
#86
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
so today was the trunk day but i was rained out
i did make some progress on it thou so enjoy
used 100 grit dry sand
applied body filler and then sanded smooth
but then the rain drops were starting so i just primed the parts i was working on and then stopped
plan is to prime the whole lid and then apply the bed liner spray
more updates soon
i did make some progress on it thou so enjoy
used 100 grit dry sand
applied body filler and then sanded smooth
but then the rain drops were starting so i just primed the parts i was working on and then stopped
plan is to prime the whole lid and then apply the bed liner spray
more updates soon
04-03-2017, 12:32 PM
#88
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
yea that rust hole was one of few that ive seen that didnt leak haha
my tow hitch wont be redone for a good while
maybe after the holidays
it came off a 2000s mazda something at the junkyard,
i think it was a 626
anyway yesterday i finished fabbing up my new axle back exhaust peace
well get pictures soon
new exhaust peaces from a 91 da integra and a 86 ford mustang were used
and the end result is perfect for all my interstate driving that i do
nice and quiet but yet still upgraded the size of piping to 2 inch
way better than the 1 1/2 it used to have
right now my next upgrade or mod is going to be some cup holders that im thinking of making
ones that hang on my door panels right next to my vents
like this guy made a few years back
my tow hitch wont be redone for a good while
maybe after the holidays
it came off a 2000s mazda something at the junkyard,
i think it was a 626
anyway yesterday i finished fabbing up my new axle back exhaust peace
well get pictures soon
new exhaust peaces from a 91 da integra and a 86 ford mustang were used
and the end result is perfect for all my interstate driving that i do
nice and quiet but yet still upgraded the size of piping to 2 inch
way better than the 1 1/2 it used to have
right now my next upgrade or mod is going to be some cup holders that im thinking of making
ones that hang on my door panels right next to my vents
like this guy made a few years back
This is hilarious. I haven't been on HT in months (maybe even a year or more?) until today and log in for the first time, this is the first thread I check out. And I'm reading your thread and think wait a minute somebody did my same cup holder idea. And then I'm like wait a minute that's MY cup holder. Small world. I totally forgot I even posted them on here. I remember that Tyson guy - who's always thought he's a God here for some reason - criticized them lol. I don't think I even ever posted full pictures that show the metal "skeleton" I built for those so it probably just looked like I took those plastic holders and rigged them to the door panels.
Because those plastic holders are "split" vertically I had to connect them at the top opening part (rivets and metal strip). I'm sure you've noticed how with a heavy drink it, the opening just spreads apart and the drink wants to fall out - and even the whole plastic hanger part itself flexes. That's why I built mine with a metal "skeleton" underneath that supports the entire plastic cup holder even on the bottom so it'll hold some seriously heavy drinks. Here's what the finished product looked/looks like without a drink in it - this was a year or two after your picture above and the black paint had already chipped in a couple of places:
Almost 7 years later and I'm still rocking them regularly without issue!
04-03-2017, 05:50 PM
#89
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
haha yea your right what are the odds
thank you for posting that picture way back then
if it wasnt for you i dont think i would of done it
my cup holders are like yours but there just mounted different
but to give them that strength
i have rubber behind to keep them from moving and a bolt that holds them in
at first the botle were bouncing around all over the place but when i sprayed the door panals i added the bolt
and now there perfect
moving on
i just got back from driving my car on the interstate for 3 hours
going 75/80 mph the whole time
its fixed
turns out the problem was my tps sensor
yes ssmrico you were right man ^_^
i should of listened to you earlier haha
i got the tps switch out and calibrated and she revs fine now
but before i found out that little detail
a very good friend of mine was helping me out with it and we were swaping over to obd1
and the plan was to run hondata to delete the crank sensor from the codes
but in the middle of it all we found the bad tps
so now i have a obd1 pr4 ecu and a obd2 dizzy that we wired for obd1
and im still useing my obdo injectors with resister box
its a interesting combo but its all working perfect
if i noticed the tps thing while it was all obd0 it would of worked also
but im already obd1 now so its staying
more updates soon
thank you for posting that picture way back then
if it wasnt for you i dont think i would of done it
my cup holders are like yours but there just mounted different
but to give them that strength
i have rubber behind to keep them from moving and a bolt that holds them in
at first the botle were bouncing around all over the place but when i sprayed the door panals i added the bolt
and now there perfect
moving on
i just got back from driving my car on the interstate for 3 hours
going 75/80 mph the whole time
its fixed
turns out the problem was my tps sensor
yes ssmrico you were right man ^_^
i should of listened to you earlier haha
i got the tps switch out and calibrated and she revs fine now
but before i found out that little detail
a very good friend of mine was helping me out with it and we were swaping over to obd1
and the plan was to run hondata to delete the crank sensor from the codes
but in the middle of it all we found the bad tps
so now i have a obd1 pr4 ecu and a obd2 dizzy that we wired for obd1
and im still useing my obdo injectors with resister box
its a interesting combo but its all working perfect
if i noticed the tps thing while it was all obd0 it would of worked also
but im already obd1 now so its staying
more updates soon
04-05-2017, 01:14 PM
#91
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
yea dude i should of listened to you sooner
this was one of those moments when your just way too close to the project
and you just cant notice the small things anymore
on the tps plug there was one wire that was corroded thats what was making all the trouble haha
okay so now i have my first trip planed for this sunday to denver co
to pick up some stuff
so for the rest of the week im going to take off work
and work of making the car not as loud
today i fixed a rattling headlight
and also went to the junk to get a stock header
becouse the aftermarket one i do like how it looks but its too loud
so i switching over to a stock unit
yesterday i sprayed my trunk finely
gave it a coat of primer after a mild sanding
and then two coats of bedliner
everything was good until my grandpa helped me put the lid on ( i took it off to spray it)
and his jacket touched the corner
no big deal
i like the new look
more updates soon
this was one of those moments when your just way too close to the project
and you just cant notice the small things anymore
on the tps plug there was one wire that was corroded thats what was making all the trouble haha
okay so now i have my first trip planed for this sunday to denver co
to pick up some stuff
so for the rest of the week im going to take off work
and work of making the car not as loud
today i fixed a rattling headlight
and also went to the junk to get a stock header
becouse the aftermarket one i do like how it looks but its too loud
so i switching over to a stock unit
yesterday i sprayed my trunk finely
gave it a coat of primer after a mild sanding
and then two coats of bedliner
everything was good until my grandpa helped me put the lid on ( i took it off to spray it)
and his jacket touched the corner
no big deal
i like the new look
more updates soon
04-08-2017, 05:37 PM
#93
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
well i have some bad news
today i dicided to take the car on a 1 hour road trip
and the car is in limp mode again
i was doing 65mph and then the speed limit changed to 75 so i started going faster
and then a misfire followed by bogging and boom
cant rev past 3k again
check engine light has never turned off it still has the code 4 crank sensor
and i really am stumped on how to get rid of this code
the car is now on its 3rd ecu and dizzy
tomarrow i will check the sensor but its always in good working order
and the wiring is connected and going the right places
i was thinking maybe the thickness might have something to do with it
but i used thicker wire than what was there before
thats why i say im stumped right now
maybe im just too close to the project and just cant see the problem
any help anyone?
today i dicided to take the car on a 1 hour road trip
and the car is in limp mode again
i was doing 65mph and then the speed limit changed to 75 so i started going faster
and then a misfire followed by bogging and boom
cant rev past 3k again
check engine light has never turned off it still has the code 4 crank sensor
and i really am stumped on how to get rid of this code
the car is now on its 3rd ecu and dizzy
tomarrow i will check the sensor but its always in good working order
and the wiring is connected and going the right places
i was thinking maybe the thickness might have something to do with it
but i used thicker wire than what was there before
thats why i say im stumped right now
maybe im just too close to the project and just cant see the problem
any help anyone?
04-11-2017, 04:48 AM
#94
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Join Date: Jul 2008
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Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
uhhh. ur dizzy cap and rotor are all new u said right? not the tb sensor, I assume plugs and wires and those things are good and new or not too old werid..
04-11-2017, 09:43 AM
#95
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
yea i got a new cap and rotor
new spark plugs
the spark plug wires are a little old but in good shape
today i pulled the fuel pump and since the pump is working fine i just replaced the strainer / filter that goes inside the tank
took the car out for a drive and it went into limp mode as i was getting on the interstate
so problem still isnt fixed
i pulled wires b10 and b12 from the ecu connectors and the car runs the same still
so next thing im going to do tomorrow and replace the wires for b10 and b12
the wires arent broken or anything i ran a current thru them and they work but im guessing the metal pins might not be making good contact
so now im going to give that a try
thats plan A
plan B is swap to obd1 injectors and remove resister box
and plan C is to switch over to a 4 wire o2 sensor
ill let you guys know how it goes
whats also annoying is that when you do a search for this topic about limp mode and the code 4
theres about 12 threads ive looked into and they all just stop
and no one ever shares how they have fixed the problem
most of the threads are years old too but no one shares the repairs haha its soooo annoying
new spark plugs
the spark plug wires are a little old but in good shape
today i pulled the fuel pump and since the pump is working fine i just replaced the strainer / filter that goes inside the tank
took the car out for a drive and it went into limp mode as i was getting on the interstate
so problem still isnt fixed
i pulled wires b10 and b12 from the ecu connectors and the car runs the same still
so next thing im going to do tomorrow and replace the wires for b10 and b12
the wires arent broken or anything i ran a current thru them and they work but im guessing the metal pins might not be making good contact
so now im going to give that a try
thats plan A
plan B is swap to obd1 injectors and remove resister box
and plan C is to switch over to a 4 wire o2 sensor
ill let you guys know how it goes
whats also annoying is that when you do a search for this topic about limp mode and the code 4
theres about 12 threads ive looked into and they all just stop
and no one ever shares how they have fixed the problem
most of the threads are years old too but no one shares the repairs haha its soooo annoying
04-12-2017, 04:32 PM
#97
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
right now im running the da obdo injectors with the resister box
i found this really old thread yesterday back in 2006 ^_^
by the user mr latino999
im just going to copy and paste but this is the information that ive been looking for
im just putting it here to make my life easier
This is what I have established so far from an MPFI OBD-0 to OBD-1 wiring harness jumper. I will figure out OBD-1 ECU to OBD-0 chassis in a bit, I.E wires that have to be run back into the engine.
CORRECTIONS ARE WELCOME UPDATE #10
KEY
XXXXXXXXXXXX Not Used
?????????????? What Goes here?
OBD-0 OBD-1 HARNESS CONNECTIONS: PROOF-READ BY TURBOGIXXER
Further assistance and commentary by vtecn8ive
Thanks to sanimalp for converting this table to vBulletin format
A01 - INJ #1 A01 - INJ #1
A02 - PG1 A23 - PG1
A03 - INJ #2 A03 - INJ #2
A04 - PG2 A24 - PG2
A05 - INJ #3 A05 - INJ #3
A06 - PCS A20 - PCS
A07 - INJ #4 A02 - INJ #4
A08 - LOCKSOL XXXXXXXXXXX
A09 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXXX
A10 - EGR CSV A11
A11 - IACV A09 - IACV
A12 - FLR1 A07 - FLR1
A13 - IGP1 A25 - IGP1
A14 - FLR2 A08 - FLR2
A15 - IGP2 B01 - IGP2
A16 - GRD A26 - LG1
A17 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXXX
A18 - GRD B02 - LG2
B01 - VBP D01 - VBU
B02 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXXX
B03 - ACC A15 - ACC
B04 - FANC A12 - FANC
B05 - ALT A16 - ALT
B06 - MIL A13 - MIL
B07 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXXX
B08 - ACS B05 - ACS
B09 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXXX
B10 - CYP P B11 - CYP P
B11 - FUSEBOX xxxxxxxxxxxx
B12 - CYP M B12 - CYP M
B13 - FUSEBOX B09 - STARTER
B14 - ALT D09 - ALT
B15 - Igniti A21 - ICM
B16 - VSS B10 - VSS
B17 - Igniti A22 - ICM
B18 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXXX
B19 - ELD D10 - ELD
B20 - SCS D04 - SCS
C01 - CKP P B15 - CKP P
C02 - CKP M B16 - CKP M
C03 - TDC P B13 - TDC P
C04 - TDC M B14 - TDC M
C05 - IAT D15 - IAT
C06 - ECT D13 - ECT
C07 - TPS D11 - TPS
C08 - EGR VLS D12
C09 - PA NOTUSEDXXXXX
C10 - BKSW D02 - BKSW
C11 - MILGRND D17 - MAP
C12 - SG2 D22 - SG2
C13 - VCC1 D19 - VCC1
C14 - SG1 D21 - SG1
C15 - VCC2 D20 - VCC2
C16 - O2S D14 - PHO2S
OBD-1 OBD-0 ECU CONNECTIONS
A01 - INJ #1 A01 - INJ #1
A02 - INJ #4 A07 - INJ #4
A03 - INJ #2 A03 - INJ #2
A04 - VTEC RUN TO ENGINE BAY
A05 - INJ #3 A05 - INJ #3
A06 - PO2SHTC RUN TO ENGINE BAY
A07 - FLR1 A12 - FLR1
A08 - FLR2 A14 - FLR2
A09 - IACV A11 - IACV
A10 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXX
A11 - EGR CSV A10 - EGR CSV
A12 - FANC B04 - FANC
A13 - MIL BO6 - MIL
A14 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXX
A15 - ACC B03 - ACC
A16 - ALT B05 - ALT
A17 - IAB CS RUN TO ENGINE BAY (B18C1 Only)
A18 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXX
A19 - FAS RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
A20 - PCS A06 - PCS
A21 - ICM B15 - IGNITION
A22 - ICM B17 - IGNITION
A23 - PG1 A02 - PG1
A24 - PG2 A04 - PG2
A25 - IGP1 A13 - IGP1
A26 - LG1 A16 - GRD
B01 - IGP2 A15 - IGP2
B02 - LG2 A18 - GRD
B03 - AFSA RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
B04 - AFSB RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
B05 - ACS B08 ACS
B06 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXX
B07 - ATP PN RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
B08 - PSPSW Power steering Load - HARDWIRE (PS ONLY)
B09 - STS B13 - FUSEBOX
B10 - VSS B16 - VSS
B11 - CYP P B10 - CYP P
B12 - CYP M B12 - CYP M
B13 - TDC P C03 - TDC P
B14 - TDC M C04 - TDC M
B15 - CKP P C01 - CKP P
B16 - CKP M C02 - CKP M
D01 - VBU B01 - VBP
D02 - BKSW C10 - BKSW
D03 - KS RUN TO ENGINE BAY (If Using B-Series Motor)
D04 - SCS B20 - SCS
D05 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXX
D06 - VTP SW RUN TO ENGINE BAY
D07 - TXD/RXD XXXXXXXXXXXX
D08 - BAROOUT RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
D09 - ALT B14 - ALT
D10 - ELD B19 - ELD
D11 - TPS C07 - TPS
D12 - EGR VLS C08 - EGR VLS
D13 - ECT C06 - ECT
D14 - PHO2S C16 - O2S
D15 - IAT C05 - IAT
D16 - VREF RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
D17 - MAP C11 - MILGRND
D18 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXX
D19 - VCC1 C13 - VCC1
D20 - VCC2 C15 - VCC2
D21 - SG1 C14 - SG1
D22 - SG2 C12 - SG2
Ok, ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, I have fixed the Oxygen sensor heating issue. For the record, this is the correct destination for the wires at the oxygen sensor plug and their destinations with the harness-
Orange/Black - Heater (ECU A6)
Grey(WHITE) - Signal (ECU D14)
Yellow/Black - Injector 12 Volt
Green/White - Ground
Oxygen Sensor Proper, to the plug
Orange/Black --> Black
Grey(White) --> White
Yellow/Black --> Black
Green/White --> Green
more updates soon
i found this really old thread yesterday back in 2006 ^_^
by the user mr latino999
im just going to copy and paste but this is the information that ive been looking for
im just putting it here to make my life easier
This is what I have established so far from an MPFI OBD-0 to OBD-1 wiring harness jumper. I will figure out OBD-1 ECU to OBD-0 chassis in a bit, I.E wires that have to be run back into the engine.
CORRECTIONS ARE WELCOME UPDATE #10
KEY
XXXXXXXXXXXX Not Used
?????????????? What Goes here?
OBD-0 OBD-1 HARNESS CONNECTIONS: PROOF-READ BY TURBOGIXXER
Further assistance and commentary by vtecn8ive
Thanks to sanimalp for converting this table to vBulletin format
A01 - INJ #1 A01 - INJ #1
A02 - PG1 A23 - PG1
A03 - INJ #2 A03 - INJ #2
A04 - PG2 A24 - PG2
A05 - INJ #3 A05 - INJ #3
A06 - PCS A20 - PCS
A07 - INJ #4 A02 - INJ #4
A08 - LOCKSOL XXXXXXXXXXX
A09 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXXX
A10 - EGR CSV A11
A11 - IACV A09 - IACV
A12 - FLR1 A07 - FLR1
A13 - IGP1 A25 - IGP1
A14 - FLR2 A08 - FLR2
A15 - IGP2 B01 - IGP2
A16 - GRD A26 - LG1
A17 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXXX
A18 - GRD B02 - LG2
B01 - VBP D01 - VBU
B02 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXXX
B03 - ACC A15 - ACC
B04 - FANC A12 - FANC
B05 - ALT A16 - ALT
B06 - MIL A13 - MIL
B07 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXXX
B08 - ACS B05 - ACS
B09 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXXX
B10 - CYP P B11 - CYP P
B11 - FUSEBOX xxxxxxxxxxxx
B12 - CYP M B12 - CYP M
B13 - FUSEBOX B09 - STARTER
B14 - ALT D09 - ALT
B15 - Igniti A21 - ICM
B16 - VSS B10 - VSS
B17 - Igniti A22 - ICM
B18 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXXX
B19 - ELD D10 - ELD
B20 - SCS D04 - SCS
C01 - CKP P B15 - CKP P
C02 - CKP M B16 - CKP M
C03 - TDC P B13 - TDC P
C04 - TDC M B14 - TDC M
C05 - IAT D15 - IAT
C06 - ECT D13 - ECT
C07 - TPS D11 - TPS
C08 - EGR VLS D12
C09 - PA NOTUSEDXXXXX
C10 - BKSW D02 - BKSW
C11 - MILGRND D17 - MAP
C12 - SG2 D22 - SG2
C13 - VCC1 D19 - VCC1
C14 - SG1 D21 - SG1
C15 - VCC2 D20 - VCC2
C16 - O2S D14 - PHO2S
OBD-1 OBD-0 ECU CONNECTIONS
A01 - INJ #1 A01 - INJ #1
A02 - INJ #4 A07 - INJ #4
A03 - INJ #2 A03 - INJ #2
A04 - VTEC RUN TO ENGINE BAY
A05 - INJ #3 A05 - INJ #3
A06 - PO2SHTC RUN TO ENGINE BAY
A07 - FLR1 A12 - FLR1
A08 - FLR2 A14 - FLR2
A09 - IACV A11 - IACV
A10 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXX
A11 - EGR CSV A10 - EGR CSV
A12 - FANC B04 - FANC
A13 - MIL BO6 - MIL
A14 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXX
A15 - ACC B03 - ACC
A16 - ALT B05 - ALT
A17 - IAB CS RUN TO ENGINE BAY (B18C1 Only)
A18 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXX
A19 - FAS RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
A20 - PCS A06 - PCS
A21 - ICM B15 - IGNITION
A22 - ICM B17 - IGNITION
A23 - PG1 A02 - PG1
A24 - PG2 A04 - PG2
A25 - IGP1 A13 - IGP1
A26 - LG1 A16 - GRD
B01 - IGP2 A15 - IGP2
B02 - LG2 A18 - GRD
B03 - AFSA RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
B04 - AFSB RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
B05 - ACS B08 ACS
B06 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXX
B07 - ATP PN RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
B08 - PSPSW Power steering Load - HARDWIRE (PS ONLY)
B09 - STS B13 - FUSEBOX
B10 - VSS B16 - VSS
B11 - CYP P B10 - CYP P
B12 - CYP M B12 - CYP M
B13 - TDC P C03 - TDC P
B14 - TDC M C04 - TDC M
B15 - CKP P C01 - CKP P
B16 - CKP M C02 - CKP M
D01 - VBU B01 - VBP
D02 - BKSW C10 - BKSW
D03 - KS RUN TO ENGINE BAY (If Using B-Series Motor)
D04 - SCS B20 - SCS
D05 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXX
D06 - VTP SW RUN TO ENGINE BAY
D07 - TXD/RXD XXXXXXXXXXXX
D08 - BAROOUT RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
D09 - ALT B14 - ALT
D10 - ELD B19 - ELD
D11 - TPS C07 - TPS
D12 - EGR VLS C08 - EGR VLS
D13 - ECT C06 - ECT
D14 - PHO2S C16 - O2S
D15 - IAT C05 - IAT
D16 - VREF RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
D17 - MAP C11 - MILGRND
D18 - NOTUSED XXXXXXXXXXX
D19 - VCC1 C13 - VCC1
D20 - VCC2 C15 - VCC2
D21 - SG1 C14 - SG1
D22 - SG2 C12 - SG2
Ok, ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, I have fixed the Oxygen sensor heating issue. For the record, this is the correct destination for the wires at the oxygen sensor plug and their destinations with the harness-
Orange/Black - Heater (ECU A6)
Grey(WHITE) - Signal (ECU D14)
Yellow/Black - Injector 12 Volt
Green/White - Ground
Oxygen Sensor Proper, to the plug
Orange/Black --> Black
Grey(White) --> White
Yellow/Black --> Black
Green/White --> Green
more updates soon
04-16-2017, 06:47 AM
#98
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
alright its update time
today was the day that we took that loud aftermarket header off and installed a stock unit
im going to be taking the o2 sensor plug back to the flange off and adding it to my new unit
heres the stock peace notice how we have pipe then mesh then pipe again
i took a wire wheel to the heat shield and sprayed it black before the install
and while im at it today heres a pic of the obd2 dizzy with obd1 plugs wired in
3g accord resister box
and now that the stock header is installed
i now had room to install my ac fan
still no luck on my limp mode problem so my sedan still cant leave the state
more updates soon
today was the day that we took that loud aftermarket header off and installed a stock unit
im going to be taking the o2 sensor plug back to the flange off and adding it to my new unit
heres the stock peace notice how we have pipe then mesh then pipe again
i took a wire wheel to the heat shield and sprayed it black before the install
and while im at it today heres a pic of the obd2 dizzy with obd1 plugs wired in
3g accord resister box
and now that the stock header is installed
i now had room to install my ac fan
still no luck on my limp mode problem so my sedan still cant leave the state
more updates soon
04-17-2017, 02:46 PM
#99
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Marcos's new work car 90 sedan
today was a painting day
painted the back door panals and my center stereo peace
the panals were brown and the stereo peace was blue
now it all matches enjoy
they came out great
also in the middle of me waiting for them to dry before i re intalled them i fixed my limp mode problem
the answer to the fix is coming
i also picked up a haynes book for the ef civic number 42023 (1227)
more updates soon
painted the back door panals and my center stereo peace
the panals were brown and the stereo peace was blue
now it all matches enjoy
they came out great
also in the middle of me waiting for them to dry before i re intalled them i fixed my limp mode problem
the answer to the fix is coming
i also picked up a haynes book for the ef civic number 42023 (1227)
more updates soon