eriki

iTrader: (2)

ok heres a little run down of the car.
mildly built LS-vtec turbo. head is stock but with a mill and valve job along with new valve seals,Golden eagle LS-V kit with golden eagle HG, Walbro 255,
Blox intake, mani 70mm TB ,Golden eagle fuel rail, ID1000cc injectors areomotive FPR, jegs inline filter,hondata 4 bar, hondata IMG, S300, using a Monotech wire harness. car was recently tuned and made 430whp and 322wtq.

Heres the problem
On cold starts it is extreamly rich around 9.x and 10.5 AFR's it has a lower idle around 500 rpm and sometimes will die untill it starts to warm up then it will idle right about 1000 rpm but bounce slightly +- 100 rpm and still be pretty rich, around 11s and 12s.
The warm start issue, it cranks but dosent fire over, ill have to blip the gas when it starts to finally catch when it does it usually dies then ill start it up again and get it to idle finally but it will idle real lean and if i try to drive then come to a stop it will die but after i start driving for a minute it it will be fine at a stop and just crusing light throttle it seems ok AFR are a bit lean for my taste but WOT is fine.
The other day i did a hard run and noticed it seemed kind of slugish (although it was about 80 outside) also felt like my throttle cable was like sticky or something ( it does this after some hard pulls) came back in my garage popped the hood to let it cool down while it was running and noticed my fuel pressure dropped almost 10 psi it usually idles at about 50/49 psi and when i looked it was at almost 40 psi. not sure whats up

What ive done so far to try and fix the problem
New main relay ( sort of helped), new plugs again gapped to .023, this helped with my car wanting to die when it got warm but now its happening again. (mind you i only had the other ones in for engine break in and the tune and for a few drives around before changing them.) new cap and rotor, cleaned the IACV i have no coolant lines going to it so its capped off on the bottom ports same with the TB, Checked injectors for leaks, all grounds.

not sure what else to do if some one would be willing to help out

KevinEF7

What program are you using for tuning?

Your cold start afr's are strictly tuning and needing to scale cold start fuel trim

Your "hot start" issue sounds like one I am having myself. In simple terms your IAT sensor is heatsoaking. Your turn your hot engine off and the intake manifold continues to heat up. Then once you start the car/or attempt to the IAT sensor tells the ECU its seeing IAT's that are 130*+ when its really 105* or so for example. And the car runs lean if at all. The sensor is slow to drop temperature readings to the ecu, it does it gradually. Like you said if you can get it moving a bit it starts running better. Until its reading the actual intake temps.

Few solutions.

-go in your tuning program and add fuel for IATs above 110* (example)
-thermal intake manifold gasket. Helped my heatsoak ALOT, but it does still soak on hot days
-the best solution is to relocate the IAT sensor to the charge piping, as close to the throttle body as possible

To confirm you are actually heatsoaking, running the car with the laptop hooked up monitoring IATs and that should help

eriki

iTrader: (2)

Will do

eriki

iTrader: (2)

Well I couldn't get it to idle right at all even with what you said, but I forgot to mention I do have a hondata IMG,

So any way I pued the plugs to check them and they were all black and fouled, looked down at the pistons with a light and the tips were wet with oil especially #4 cyl
I noticed it the first time I changed plugs but those ones were not fouled just pretty burnt up. Hopefully it just needs to be beat on more for the rings to keep setting or I'm going to freak out hahah

eriki

iTrader: (2)

any one have an idea of why oil would be on top of all 4 pistons after a rebuild?

LSB18Turbo2017

Everyone I know that has used a walboro 255 end up burning them out and upgraded to at least a AEM 320