ChevelleSSLS6

Yesterday I hit a curb with all of this icy crap on the road... bent a wheel (stock 13" steelie) pretty bad and something else....

With a less bent wheel on, the car still drives like crap. Imagine having your wheel turned 90* left and going straight. Major toe in noticed (and the 'good' side is turned in to compensate) as well as positive camber.

It runs well, interior is good but the blower heater fan doesn't work, and exterior needs some rust repair by wheelwells and a new hood (it's all messed up from when it flew open on the road, held closed with ratchet straps). It's a stock 1.5L and automatic, just daily transportation.

Well, should I try selling it, parting it then scrapping it, or fix it?
-Matt

jdmed3

pick up another 5spd wat i vote if its dd and use ^^ as donor car

ChevelleSSLS6

As for repairs I thought if I took the 'hard parts' (from upper balljoint down to hub, and where the hub carrier assembly thing mounts to the unibody) would have to be replaced. I dunno if it's going to be a pain in the *** removing that stuff from a junkyard car, and replacing on my 20 year old car.

If you're interested and want pics, pm me. $500 obo, emphasis on the OBO part.

jdmed3

post some pics of the damage maybe its not as bad as it sounds but so far it sounds beyond worth it

hammergunner

done that same kinda repair to my car

if you love your car and have put in a lot of work, whats a little more.

but if your strapped for cash or time, get another car.

SIred91

This is NOT a for sale forum, but post some pics of the damage and go from there.

Radim

iTrader: (4)

He never said anything along the lines of
WTS...
You do need to post pics though so we can see how bad it is.

Die_Ursidae

I agree here. Don't scrap cause it has a few more bruises. IF you've fixed her up in the past fix her again. OTherwise go ahead and get another and use it as a parts car. But unregister it first trust me that'll be a pain if you let it sit while insured lol.

ChevelleSSLS6

nothing is visibly bent. With front of car on stands and looking underneath it, the drivers tire has a lot of positive camber, and is closer to the 'vertical part that the upper balljoint is on' that the hub/brake rotor/caliper is mounted to than the passenger (good) tire.

Die_Ursidae

Ok yea we'd have to se this lol

ChevelleSSLS6

At the boneyard since it's pick a part (and therefore not expensive) I plan on replacing everything shown here... the tie rod end (right circle) might be replaced with new.

The center circled piece is what's closer to the wheel when compared to the nondamaged side. I have no idea how to do a driveway alignment (so its at least halfway decent to drive) on these, so any advice would be appreciated.

The part on the left, I'm not sure what it's called but being hit laterally, could be bent from the impact. And of course I'll nab another steelie while I'm at it.

So, if I'm to fix this, what size is the axle nut, and how easy does the main assembly (visible in center circle) come out? What tools (besides the usual metric set) will I need?

Maybe I'm just paranoid. I'll make a video tomorrow.

Before this all happened, I wanted to sell it in the springtime, and Hondas with a lot of miles and some rust, so long as nothing is too bad, seem to bottom out around $1000 around here.

KillBot

Wow...snow FTL

I would be shocked if the knuckle/main assembly is bent...that thing is made of cast iron and would prolly crack/break first.

The other two parts are pretty easy swap out, but make sure the body attachment points aren't torn or bent.

ChevelleSSLS6

Pics of body attachment points added to 'to do' list (with video). Would the hub/bearing be bent with this? Most I've seen are machined out of solid steel and appear sturdy, even the cheap ones I've sold at work. Ill check back tomorrow morning, so this is all you'll hear from me tonight. Thanks for helping keep a (near) classic Honda on the road.

tkda

If you bent your lower crossmember then its hard to get a new one to fit properly.
but if it isnt bent then get a new lca, radius rod and whatever else is bent.
but if i were you i would just ride the 650 in that snow, lol.

ChevelleSSLS6

black rim is ok, this is how it sat when I pulled into parents garage today... black is pass. side


steelie is ok, this is after I swapped the most bent wheel off the car, and using a kinda bent wheel on back, and using back wheels (both good) up front. These are drivers side.

















...all suspension pics are taken from the front of the car... I started with the drivers (bad) side and went to the pass. side, took a couple different angles from the front facing the rear, and back to the drivers side. Hope this relives some confusion.

How can I do a "diy" alignment so it drives halfway normal? (toe adjustment and of course steering angle is out of whack)
I can't seem to find anything unusually bent.

ChevelleSSLS6

done with rears (unharmed) on front, and really bent wheel off car. Slightly bent wheel (used as fullsize spare) on rear with other front.

gibsanez

I'm glad I have motor vehicle inspections where I live, keeps cars like that off the road. Your car is falling apart, and busted all to hell. Junk it.

jdmed3

I cant tell if the tires shift or its a mix of the snow and u turnin the wheel but it looks like they do quite a bit I would say take to a les schwab and have them do the free alignment check and they will tell you wats wrong and wat needs to be replaced

Singlecam4dr

i hit a curb last year and bent the UCA i took it too a shop and told them to check it all out. cost me 30 bucks instead of 500 for them to replace it.

OneBadTurboCRV

Inner Tie-Rod definitely looks bent, I doubt the outer is bent/twisted but they are so cheap I would replace them both. It is hard to tell from the pictures but compare both of the upper control arms. The parts circled to the left in that picture is a torsion bar and it looks fine. The spindle/knuckle (the center part) (kids call car parts all kinds of crazy names) is almost guaranteed to be fine because they typically crack/shatter because being made of cast steel. Also a rare possibility is that the strut could be bent too causing the positive camber. I would have a hard time believing the upper control arm got bent, but you never know.

4drEF

If you just need a beater of a car to get through the snow then probably keep it.
Hopefully you can find the suspension parts for less than $100 at a junk yard and still have some left for an alignment.
Otherwise, get rid of it. It's not a good starting place for a vehicle to keep. So much body work to do will run you $$$$

DatatRex

part!!!

spens 91 Ef

id check your crossmember too when i bought my car i had 2 bent crossmembers 1 in the rear and 1 in the front cost me like $350 to fix did the front 1 my self lot of work

fishinfool88

I did this one, hit a a parking stop after sliding like 40 ft. Didn't hit it hard, just enough to vibrate a bit. I went this route.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-89...Q5fAccessories
Fixed it all at one, took my about 2 hours to do it all, including beer breaks. For the price, it's nice to know it's all done. I don't care what any of the richer folks say about oem or moog being better, these cheap parts work, as I've been rolling these parts for about 5 years w/ regular inspections and I don't have a problem yet.

DVS_SI

You could have bent the strut.