rockofcali

well my homie has a b16a in his ef and he puts full synthetic in it and ppl keep tellin him that synthetic is bad for hondas.....and that it would be better to go non-synthetic....im not sure...i would think synthetic is always better except when braking a motor in.....so sum answers would be nice ty

IP RACING

Im not sure but I really dont see how synthetic could be bad for any motor

The_Undertaker

Is your homie racing it or as a daily driver? If the ef is a daily drivers i do not see why it would be bad. Where are you located? If in hot places, oil breaks down to tiny molecules so no protection of the engine.

tehondafrk

I'm by far no expert, but synthetic oil holds up to heat a lot better than non-synthetic....if you are driving the car hard/drag racing/etc., the motor is going to get toasty....synthetic is the only way to go imo. I've been running Mobil 1 5w-30/10w-30 (depending on seasonal temps.) full synthetic in my b16a for over 2 years since I got it swapped, never had a problem.

Red_ED8

iTrader: (1)

Full synthetic > regular oil (unless your breaking in a motor). Just my .02 cents

ComeOnKip

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1988hondacrxsiR1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is your homie racing it or as a daily driver? If the ef is a daily drivers i do not see why it would be bad. Where are you located? If in hot places, oil breaks down to tiny molecules so no protection of the engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you for the information of a 9-year old with a learning disability making a motor oil commercial.

If you live a state like NY where emissions testing is laughable, I'd recommend going with a synthetic non-API approved oil. 9 times out of 10, they have most of the same ingredients to preserve the integrity of the oil under storage or running conditions. But the biggest thing about Non-API oils (Valvoline VR-1, Joe Gibbs Racing oil and the like) is that they have about four to six times the amount of Zinc & Phosphorus then an API approved oil. Zinc provides the barrier layer that actually bonds, or is attracted to carbon steel when heat is applied, thus giving you the barrier level that all these oil companies brag about.

Unfortunately, API has limited the amount of zinc in 'street legal' oils to 800 ppm. This is due to the fact that unfortunately through the minute amount of oil that is burned through the crankcase vent, the zinc has been proven to shorten catalytic converter life. So, seeing as how you live in a very emissions restrictive state, I'd say your best bet would be a nice API synthetic, Royal Purple or the like. You could go run a "race" or non-API oil, but its going to shorten the life of your cat, which is something you have to take into account in Cali.

God I love having a resonator and a muffler

thegooddoctorceretti

synthetic. period. go royal purple haha

jayden1295

will this work on d sries engine... i have about 145 mile on it..

Tippyman