sprayedcrx

my b16a crx is smoking and i just found oil in all the holes for the spark plugs it literally completely covered the tops of sparkplugs plz help and tell me whats wrong

riceisnicenv

bye bye piston rings....

edit: or perhaps a headgasket?

S9i1R

you need a rebuild might as well get all the stuff you've always wanted while your down

89hbcivicguy

is it jsut the stardard 1.5 or 1.6?........if u take the valve cover off there are 4 seals for the plug tubes ..... replace them........also it u take the valve train off.....10 bolts there are tube seals there too....the bolts get torqued at 26foot pounds or 37 neuton metres
good luck

sprayedcrx

my head gasket is leaking on the distributer side do you guys think i just need to change that cause cash is tight right now

sprayedcrx

i have arp headstuds and low compression head gasket do you think i just didnt torqe it right

riceisnicenv

what did you torque it to?? its supposed to be 70 ft/lbs right??

sprayedcrx

im not sure my friend did it but i was recently told that arp studs should be torqued an extra 15 pounds is that true

S9i1R

1. double check to see if the studs might have stretched if so
2. get a torque wrench (even if you return it to sears after your finished)
3. get a head gasket (pref. OEM-once there's contaminates between the layers it won't seal properly)
4. get moly lube and torque them to 68 ft#'s (I think will up date tomorrow)

good luck maybe you don't need a rebuild after all :fingers crossed:

EDIT: I found this looking through the seach results
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i installed arp's on my z6, i called arp.
they said 60 lbs with moly lube and 70 with 30w oil</TD></TR></TABLE>

sprayedcrx

thanks everyone im still open for opinions though

S9i1R

if you buy a OEM 3-layer metal HG and want to take the middle layer out I suggest using copper sealer (I think that's what's it's called) between the two layers