blah13

After getting back from the dealership with the EX I just did a random check of things, connectors, plugs, hoses etc and when I grabbed the lower rad hose it was cold. The upper was hot. However my car reached operating temp before I even got to the dealership and then had to drive back and the lower hose was still cold. But it never overheted so does it really take that long for the thermo to open? Or is it even possible to not have the thermo open but not overheat? I figuerd a stuck thermo would almost always = overheating. Any input is appreciated.

dmakarov

hey you fixed your problem with that lower cold hose
let me know on that
i got the same thing right now on my car
thanks

Bee17hatch

get a new thermostat that could be the problem!!!!!

Kasper.

It could feel cooler becuase its closer to the ground, and with the cold conditions outside, it stays cooler then the upper one does which is dealing with all the hot air being blow up from the fan and heat radiating off the block and head.


Not sure how cold it is in Fl. but just a suggestion I know here in iowa its like 10 degrees out now.

W0oT

sounds odd.... botom one should be cooler than top one but not cold i would think.... upper hose exits rad fluid from motor(very hot) lower sends back into motor (cooler from radiator)(correct me if i'm wrong), make sure you have no air in your cooling system, should be a bleeder valve near thermostat or upper rad hose, ummm, other than that, other than that i wouldn't quite worry about it since your not overheating.... i'm still trying to figure out why my 91 hatch w/ b16 leaks from the lower hose..... damn thing.

90civichbsi

iTrader: (1)

is the motor over heating? if not it sounds like the radiator is just doin its job

coolant/water enters the top hose from the motor and goes through the radiator back to the motor through the lower hose.

dmakarov

well hey
if you say
"upper hose exits rad fluid from motor(very hot) lower sends back into motor (cooler from radiator)"
then what is the thermostat for
now this is what i have been thinking so far
when engine gets hot enough then the fluid inside of it is hot also being pushed by a water pump to the thermostat
thermostat senses the heat and just opens up by itself no wiring or fuses involved here, it works only if it senses heat
now that its open the fluid just flows back to the radiator thru the thermostat there is a plug near it i believe its called ect sensor or a thermoswitch
that also sense the heat and turn the radiator fan on when it needs to
the only problem is why doesnt the thermostat open
i am still thinking on it
will let you know if i fix it

dmakarov

well yo i fixed my problem today
now this is what you need to do man
first of all use acura stock thermostat
all of the cheap brands or any expensive ones dont work as well as the stock on
the stock on opens up at 76-80 degrees celcius or if you cant get the stock on get one that will be in that temperature range
make sure you install the thermostat corectly there is a little pin on it that should be on top check this diagram

after making sure that is correctly installed connect all of you hoses
and you fill the reservor and radiator with fluid all the way
then start the car and warm it up a little til you will get it hot
in the meanwile turn on the heater all the way up inside the car and let that work
then slowly and carefully open the radiator and put more fluid if needed
if the level stays the same let the car work for a while
the problem is that the there is air in the system and that needs to go
eventually the engine will get hot and all the fluid that is being sucked in thru the upper hose will get hot and will be forced to the thermostat
when it reaches 76-80 celsius the thermostat should open and the fluid should just flow thru it back to the radiator pushing the air all the way to the top and to the radiator so you might see some bubles
take you time and wait til there are no bubles coming out
that could take up to 20 or more minutes depends on how much air is trapped in your system
in the meanwhile the air will get out thru the top of the radiator and the fluid should be sucked in thru the upper hose so you have to keep on adding the fluid all the time
now you will feel that your lower hose is getting hot
and it should
do that until you see no more bubles coming out fill up the radiator and wait a little more in case more air will come out
if not just put your cap back on and your are set
go and look and your temperature gauge it should be fine
let me know how that works out

blah13

Wow almost a month old, either way, since its been damn cold lately, 34 this morning, I've just not bothered checking anything, I doubt my car will overheat with weather like this. It was just something random I noticed, and since my car never overheated beforehand I dont think its much concern. The coolant has been bled since the install and never had trouble before.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90civichbsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the motor over heating? if not it sounds like the radiator is just doin its job</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly what I'm thinking, just found it interesting how much of a difference I felt in the 2 hoses.

JonGP4

well it should be pretty warm, i mean it has to be the thermo doesn't open till like 194 degrees, thats hot enough to feel through a rubber hose. but it could jsut be the winter temps.. i don't have a thermo in my car right now.. and the needle almost drops dead cold when crusin 70 and the heater on.. and i'm in texas with temps only as low as like 30s on a really cold night.. on top of that my fans don't work.. lol the damn thing won't over heat unless i'm in traffic for 30 minutes.. or really on it in a parking lot (tray sliding).. lol otherwise just normal driving won't make it over heat.. i guess i'll see what happens when the weather returns to 90+