ool3ecc4oo

Thanks for the helpful post! I fixed mine temporarily with a penny and duct dape....but I'm curious to know if this switch could have effected the cruise control as well?

When the switch broke originally I had the cruise control on and it had shut off on its own, even after I've put the penny on and the brake lights are fine, the cruise control still doesn't work.

Chiovnidca

The penny probably isn't thick enough and isn't pushing the switch all the way closed. Try pulling up on the brake pedal with your foot as you engage the cruise control to verify that easily.

Oh, and props top the OP for looking into the problem instead of just throwing a switch on it. Proper diagnosis is often quite a bit cheaper than throwing parts at a problem.

lupe1

A couple of years ago my cruise control quit working me and I was stupidfied as to its sudden failure. Now to the present a few weeks ago my clutch slave cylinder started failing. So I found this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-replace-clutch-master-cylinder-2596523/
To be safe I replaced both the master and slave cylinders but after installing the master cylinder I noticed a hole where the clutch switch makes contact with the clutch pedal. I searched everywhere on the floorboard for a missing piece of blue plastic which shows up in the pictures in the above mentioned thread. Unfortunately I didn't find any pieces. After the successful master and slave cylinder replacements I got to thinking about the possibility of the clutch switch being disengaged all the time and whether this was related to my cruise control problem. So I put some 3M blue painters tape over the hole where the plastic pedal stopper goes and test drove it see whether cruise control would work. It did! So yesterday I went over the stealership and both the afformentioned plastic part #46505-SA5-000 for $2.69. I'll slap it on later on

So two problems solved!! Thanks a lot guys.

mcr1981

Thanks for the great info.

My 1997 Acura TL had that same problem (yesterday 10:00 PM). Got it fix today (8:00 AM) with a coin Will wait 'till the dealer has those rubber things.

humble_me

thank you for the excellent walk-through and the photos.

JapJunkie

iTrader: (1)

Great thread. Found the same broken pieces on my floor. Stoked its an under $5 fix.

Stiller33

I'm on my 2nd Honda civic and am having this problem. on the first I used to own, it was the plastic stopper. On this one, the plunger in the brake light switch snapped. I tried to superglue it just to give that a try, but now the plunger is always stuck in, so the brake lights never turn on. Looks like I'll definitely need a new brake light switch. Just wondering, is this a part that you can only get at a dealership, or can I get one at a more generic auto parts store like Checker?

EDIT

Never mind, got the part from Checker. Brake lights working properly now. This thread and the photos did help me immensely to diagnose the issue, thank you.

323jdmef9

HEY THANKS FOR THE INFO INJUST POSTED A THREAD ABOUT THIS THANKS.

jacksonww

Great post. Found the answer to my problem in a matter of seconds using my phone to do a quick search. All fixed now. I took the nut and bolt route for a quick and permanent repair.

TearSDMF89dx

good write-up this has happened to all 3 of the hondas ive owned...bolt works well

Jennnn

Hello! I just wanted to thank the poster of this thread for the valuable information. The pictures provided are what really helped- I can't say thanks enough, as I know nothing about cars and feared the worst. Thanks to you, I only had to spend 4 bucks on the little plug- and thanks to you I knew where it goes!!!! Thanks!!!

ChrisAB

Great post and thread. My '87 Toyota Camry had the same problem. The dealership had to special order the part, the Toyota part# is 90541-06036 and it's called a 'cushion'. On the Camry it was a challenge to get to the switch. Had to remove a lower protective panel from the bottom of the dash (2 screws--easy). But at 6' I wasn't able to reach way up under the dash, hold the switch back, and slip in the part--could only use one arm. My wife (5' 2") was able to reach it, hold the switch plunger back, and slip in the cushion, which she held from the side with curved nose pliers, in a couple minutes. All fixed. Thanks again.

CivicBlacksheep

I glued a penny on and never had a problem since

Carl_S

I just purchased my first civic and one of the issues it had was this. I thought I was going to spend a week chasing electrical shorts. I was relieved when i pulled the no.16 fuse on the under hood panel and the lights turned off. I was also prepared to buy a new switch and was actually just trying to verify that it wasn't some kind of fail safe (they are brake lights and how else would you want them to fail). Anyways thank you very much for saving me twenty bucks and half an hour, and the frustration that would have ensued after changing the switch.

clutchdown_89

i jus glued a penny to n its working perfectly for now

crxyz

I also wanted to thank you for this thread. It saved me a lot of headaches. I duct taped a pennie in there for now, but I think I'll pickpup the screw and bolt.

zsiya

You are scaring the hell out of me!! I posted yesterday about this and I also found the same "crayons" on the floor mat. This is freaking me out....I LOVE this site...

brett304

I recently bought a crx that had an ignition issue. It worked fine if i jumped the starter... First thing I had to do when I bought the car was the front brakes.. I'm guessing that the brake bleed sequence killed this piece of plastic for me and a couple hours later, I found the lights on... Then I found this to be the problem, so I started looking at the clutch side as well... Theres two of these on the clutch side, and guess what? Now my crx starts just fine! A cheap easy fix on the brake side and the clutch side!

cajuncharger

What a great service you, and all of the people who post similar threads, do for poor souls like me. I really, really appreciate all of you and thank God for your great information and the trouble to tell us about it.

rbwdriven

Speaking as an engineer on this one.

There is one issue with using a bolt or penny.

You are now releasing the clutch or brake pedal with metal on metal hitting versus metal on (rubber/ plastic) The little rubber brake stoppers have give.

The metal bolt and pennies have no give so you are wearing out your switch.

Just my 2 cents.

est1988

but spent $2 to get in lol.

StillRunnin

Thanks to the original poster for one of the most helpful threads I've ever found. I called my local dealer and they have the plastic part for $2.27, so I'll be stopping by today.
I was tempted to go the penny router (or the beer bottle cap method) but had the same thought about metal-on-metal, so I'll spend the few dollars for a piece of plastic and be done with it.
THANKS AGAIN!!!
FYI: A minor thing, but if you're getting the part at a Honda dealer, call first and check the price over the phone. Santa Barbara Honda told me it was $2.27 when I called, but later when I went in to buy it, they tried to charge me $4.48! I told them about calling, and they grudgingly charged me $2.27, but it certainly left a bad taste in my mouth!

OnTheRode

Thanks to whoever wrote this post and posted the pictures. I was banging my head on the wall until I found this on Bing. Not only did I fix the problem, but it was easy and cheap! I just wish all my problems were this easy to fix.

boostinlow

i put a penny on that hoe just now !!!!

shiroun

I know I'm bumping this.

But I just bought it at my local honda parts dealership. Total cost: $3.08.
Getting them tommorow.