Blue smoke, but good compression?
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Blue smoke, but good compression?
Hello Im new to honda-tech, my brother recommended it to me because he has got great info for his accord here.
My question is my 1989 Civic HB D15b2 stick shift is smoking when i rev it or excellerate hard. its burning about 1/2 Qt every 200 miles (almost 1/2 to 100miles on the highway). It's leaking from the dist less then the normal amount.
Here is some engine info.
I just purchased it for a commuter, it was a one owner daily driver, it has 217k. i bought it with a seized cam. i replaced the head with a head off of a 1993 DX with between 100-150K, and had it milled and torqued to the TSB specs and all new gaskets, the cylinders still had cross hatch marks on them. ( i didnt talk to the owner so i dont know the full history of the engine)
New timing belt, water pump, plugs, PCV valve.
Starts and runs great and as strong as i would think a 1.5 could be.
Dry compression check showed, from dist. to timing belt:
180 185 170 180
The car appeared to be running for quite some time with a leaking head gasket. When i replaced the PCV valve i noticed a build up of carboned oil on the hose connecting the PCV valve, although air flowed through the line fairly easily.
I hate posts that lack info so i hope i listed enough.
Please let me know what else i could check or what else it may be.
Thanks,
Tim
My question is my 1989 Civic HB D15b2 stick shift is smoking when i rev it or excellerate hard. its burning about 1/2 Qt every 200 miles (almost 1/2 to 100miles on the highway). It's leaking from the dist less then the normal amount.
Here is some engine info.
I just purchased it for a commuter, it was a one owner daily driver, it has 217k. i bought it with a seized cam. i replaced the head with a head off of a 1993 DX with between 100-150K, and had it milled and torqued to the TSB specs and all new gaskets, the cylinders still had cross hatch marks on them. ( i didnt talk to the owner so i dont know the full history of the engine)
New timing belt, water pump, plugs, PCV valve.
Starts and runs great and as strong as i would think a 1.5 could be.
Dry compression check showed, from dist. to timing belt:
180 185 170 180
The car appeared to be running for quite some time with a leaking head gasket. When i replaced the PCV valve i noticed a build up of carboned oil on the hose connecting the PCV valve, although air flowed through the line fairly easily.
I hate posts that lack info so i hope i listed enough.
Please let me know what else i could check or what else it may be.
Thanks,
Tim
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Re: (tepco)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepco »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rings, even with good compression?
I was thinking more like the valve stem seals.
Any mech's out there?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i was about to say could be your seals
I was thinking more like the valve stem seals.
Any mech's out there?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i was about to say could be your seals
#6
Re: Blue smoke, but good compression? (tepco)
almost definatly the seals over the rings. In my mind they are harder to get the oil to and if a car had an oiling issue they would be the first to be deprived of oil along with the valvetrain. I have the same problem as you and in addition my valvetrain is a little chattery.
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#8
Re: Blue smoke, but good compression? (Runnerdown)
lol, hugh. well I don't know how much this applies to honda, but when my daytona used a quart every 400 miles I did the stem seals(common problem) and that fixed it.
#9
Bad valve stem seals usually show when starting up the engine after it has been sitting for a while.
I would look at the rings, as they will allow oil to be burned constantly during driving.
Out of round cylinder walls... hmmm. If the crosshatch is uniform around the entire bore, I think you can rule that out.
Replace the rings. All of them.
I would look at the rings, as they will allow oil to be burned constantly during driving.
Out of round cylinder walls... hmmm. If the crosshatch is uniform around the entire bore, I think you can rule that out.
Replace the rings. All of them.
#11
Re: Blue smoke, but good compression? (tepco)
The eaziest way to find out wut makez da motor smoke iz if u deaccelerate & ur motor blowz blue smoke out da tail pipe then itz ur piston ringz! Compression really doesnt tell da condition of ur oil control rings on ur pistonz! The other tezt is to run ur motor until it iz @ normal temp then shut it off as if u were pumping gas then turn it back on!! If u blow blue smoke during a hot restart then itz ur valve stem sealz!! Truzt me i know Hondaz like da back of my hand!!
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Re: Blue smoke, but good compression? (Sleepy-CRX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sleepy-CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The eaziest way to find out wut makez da motor smoke iz if u deaccelerate & ur motor blowz blue smoke out da tail pipe then itz ur piston ringz! Compression really doesnt tell da condition of ur oil control rings on ur pistonz! The other tezt is to run ur motor until it iz @ normal temp then shut it off as if u were pumping gas then turn it back on!! If u blow blue smoke during a hot restart then itz ur valve stem sealz!! Truzt me i know Hondaz like da back of my hand!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
yea with those greatly spelled words who doesn't know hondas (hondas not HONDAZZZZZZZVTAKZZZZZZ!!!!!)
yea with those greatly spelled words who doesn't know hondas (hondas not HONDAZZZZZZZVTAKZZZZZZ!!!!!)
#13
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Ok i did a leak down test, and i think i see how it works.
I set my compressor to hold 100psi at the guage, hooked it up to the cylinder at TDC on the power stroke. And then opened the valve to pressurize the cylinder, the guage then read from left to right 96,96,95,96.
Now if I'm fully understanding this leak down test, that should mean 4-5% per cylinder?
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
I set my compressor to hold 100psi at the guage, hooked it up to the cylinder at TDC on the power stroke. And then opened the valve to pressurize the cylinder, the guage then read from left to right 96,96,95,96.
Now if I'm fully understanding this leak down test, that should mean 4-5% per cylinder?
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
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sometimes if your rings are bad they compression will go up because oil is sealing them to the cylinder wall causing it to read normal compression. also check if you have alot of carbon build up on the head or the pistons, that also will cause the compression to go up
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