rasta420

what is the procedure to bleed the brake fluid out of my 90 crx si? do i do front and rear all at the same time? or one by one?

i dont really know the procedure so if someone could break it down step-by-step for me...

thanks

andrew dc

pretty sure it is

front of car

1 3


4 2

rear

this is at least how I have done it

crxgurlllll

JunkeeCrx

you're supposed to go from the furthest to the closest. from the MC that is. thats what i usually do. perhaps im wrong too....?





[Modified by JunkeeCrx, 4:30 PM 8/21/2002]

andrew dc

uh.. yeah, but flip my picture around..... thats what I ment

rasta420

thanks for the help man...

but im still a newbie on HOW to bleed the brake fluid..i got the sequence down, but im not sure on the procedure...

my vague idea is to loosen the brake bleeder bolt, pump the brakes til all the fluid is out, then proceed to the next in line??? do i pump the brakes til ALL the fluid is gone? when do i refill the master cylinder?


thanks again..

rasta420

ttt

HELP!

crxgurlllll

youll need 2 people..... a friend to pump the brakes will you open & close the bleeder screw

Mr Furball

first go from the furthest tire away and go in a circle to the closest tire.
Have some one in the car and have them pump the breakes and make sure you have all tires off. have person pump breakes hold to floor and person at tire open bleeder and close bleeder when all air is out and fluid is coming out.

do this 3-4 times each bleeder and when you close the bleeder have person pump brakes again and hold, you open bleeder and wait until fluid comes out tighten quickly.

do this to all bleeders and make sure pleanty of breake fluid is in M/C.

WHEN DONE MAKE SURE BREAKE PEDAL DOES NOT GO TO FLOOR AND IS HARD

GOOD luck

Doctor CorteZ

that IS the correct bleed sequence

push pedal
open bleeder
close bleeder
repeat till no more air bubbles

---------- leave the wheels on , you gots room

crxaddikt

just go to http://www.resource.crx.org, and log in, then choose "downloads", from the left hand side title menu, then click "manuals", and download the "CRX Shop Manual", and open up in adobe acrobat, it has the whole book for free, and look in the brakes chapter, and it should give detailed instructions on how to do it, i am planning on doing it this week for the first time also.

Perfectionist

One word of caution... Don't let the brake pedal go to the floor during this proceedure. The piston in the master cylinder will go into "virgin" territory and you run the risk of ruining the seal.

Last time I bled my brakes I used the gravity method. Attatch a piece of clear tubing to the bleeder and immerse the other end into a jar of clean brake fluid. Open the bleeder and watch the tube until it runs clean. It takes longer, but there's no risk in wrecking the MC this way.

BlueShadow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that IS the correct bleed sequence

push pedal
open bleeder
close bleeder
repeat till no more air bubbles

---------- leave the wheels on , you gots room</TD></TR></TABLE>


Just wondering, when you go through the above procedure how do you know when there are no more air bubbles?

Also, to my understanding you will be repeating the above process a bunch of times on each corner. The brake fluid may have to be refilled if it starts to go down right?

TIA

cmyrex

hope whoever is pumpin is ready for a work out its great for the calves lol

BlueShadow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Just wondering, when you go through the above procedure how do you know when there are no more air bubbles?

Also, to my understanding you will be repeating the above process a bunch of times on each corner. The brake fluid may have to be refilled if it starts to go down right?

TIA</TD></TR></TABLE>


BUMP

One other thing I was wondering about bleeding brakes since I've never done it before. That bleeder valve has a cover on it right? all I do is take that cap/cover off, and put a vacuum line on the end of the bleeder valve and bleed the brakes using the procedure above? I see people connecting a line to that bleeder and all it is is a drain line right?

When I bleed my brakes do I have to mess with anything under the engine bay at all? all I should have to do there is to suck the brake fluid out and put new fluid in and bleed it and add fluid if necessary right?

c0nspire

from the manual

page 19-12




generally have two people, but if you dont you can use a hose on the valve, stick it in a jar filled with brake fluid so when you release the brake and it sucks back it will suck fluid out of the jar and you wont end up with air in the lines.

personally i find it to be easier and faster if you have a friend help you.

BlueShadow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c0nspire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from the manual

generally have two people, but if you dont you can use a hose on the valve, stick it in a jar filled with brake fluid so when you release the brake and it sucks back it will suck fluid out of the jar and you wont end up with air in the lines.

personally i find it to be easier and faster if you have a friend help you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought you were supposed to press down on the brake open the valve then close it before releasing the pedal? even though you have the line in a container of brake fluid there could still be a chance that the line itself has air which has not been cleared out.

Wouldn't it be a better idea to pump the brake a few times, press it down steadily open the valve for a few seconds, then close it and release the pedal (repeat as needed). if the brake fluid starts to get low then you would just fill it up at under the hood.

Would it also be a good idea to open the valve first, then press the brake down then close the valve? it seems like this would get a lot of air out of the system, but I dont know if it would also clear out all the brake fluid.

c0nspire

no

sit int he car and pump the brakes then push down and hold the brake pedal in, release the valve allow flow to stop, close valve, and then pump the brakes again, hold down and open / close valve. continue until there is only fluid and no air, continue to next wheel

edit: wait yes, i mis read ur post..

edit2: and thats what the honda manual is saying..

BlueShadow

hey again guys,

I tried bleeding my brakes today but the left rear brake wouldn't stop releasing air. I had to replace the piston in that corner and I also removed the 10" section of hardline to remove the piston. I didn't find out till afterwards that I had to use sealant where the flare ends bolt up and on the base of the piston where it sits up against the backplate. Could not putting sealant on these cause air to be in the system? What kind of sealant do I need to use?

Also is there something I can use that will allow me to bleed the brakes by myself? I've heard of tools like this, but I cant remember what they are called. EDIT: I think it might be called speed bleeders. Is this something I can pick up at NAP, Carquest or Autozone?

TIA

md88hfcrx

by "pistons" do you mean rear brake caliper? or wheel cylinder?. do you have disc or drum brakes? i dont think you put sealant on the brake line and IF anything it would be teflon tape

BlueShadow

I have drum brakes. It's the thing that pushes out on both sides and pushes the shoes against the drum. There's supposed to be sealant between the backplate and the pistons thingie. But I dont know what kind of sealant to use.

It's #11/12/13/14 in the pic.

md88hfcrx

thats called a wheel cylinder. i have never put a sealant in any that i have changed and i have never had problems. the brake fluid could eat through some types of sealants. if you insist, used teflon tape

BlueShadow

I'll just leave it the way it is. I'll use some teflon paste on the hardline threads. but the flared part stays clean right?

md88hfcrx

ill go get my haynes manual and check it for you just gimme a sec

md88hfcrx

ok...place silicon sealant between the mating surface of the cylinder and the backing plate. but the flared nut on the brake line stays clean. so where the wheel cylinder touches the backing plate, there needs to be silicon sealant