lothian110

Is the B18C5 worth the money... i think it's something like $4500 on hmotorsonline.com... what kind of track times would i expect with that much power?... anyone know any places that are just as reliable but I could get one for less?... what differences in the actual swap would this be from say a b16?...
im actually thinking i should get a shop to do the work if i decide to use the b18c5? any price estimates, advice.. ideas...
thanks

GroundZer0

You may be able to get one from a junkyard for less that works, but then again it may have some milage on it.

B18C5-EH2

Sorry to simply copy and paste a reply of mine from another post, but most of it fits true in this topic too.

Begin paste:

Well this is funny because I have a B18C5 hatch and a B16A2 hatch and sorry to say but there is no comparison.
The B16A2 dynoed 143whp and 102torque with i/h/e and re-chipped P28 ECU.

The B18C5 dynoed 175whp and 123ft-lbs. of torque to the wheels.

After tuning the B18C5 is doing 177/130 and it pulls hella harder than the B16 does...

...as well it should (because the B18C5 costs way more than a B16A), but know that I also have a friend who did a fully built B16A (but kept it 1.6L) with Toda B cams, higher /cr pistons, P&P'd head, etc. SMS Products header and exhaust (most expensive, best stuff out there pretty much) and he dynoed 177 with like 120 torque (tuned) and spent much more than you would for a B18C5 motor. And his car didn't like to idle much either. I'm not hating, because he worked that motor over to ba very bad-***, but he did it the hard way.

Just cams alone in a nice B18C5 can net 190's fairly easily, with a few guys running 200whp on JUN3 cams with stock JDM 11:1 CR bottom ends and stock heads with only cams and valvetrain being different.

IMO you cannot beat a stock O.E Honda build, and I beat the **** out of my B18C5 pretty much every day and before tuning (where I picked up +20whp and +20ft-lbs. of torque from 4000rpm-7000rpm) the 2040lb. 1992 Cx was turning 13.3@101mph on a 2.0 60 footer. 1.8 60 footers (easy with nice slicks) will yield high 12's.

Depending on year and model of your CR-X a properly-running B18C5 should net anywhere from 13.5-12.7. The 12.7 or so would be in a 1988 HF. the 13.5 on slicks would be like the 1990-1991 Si which is actually hella heavy compared to some other year hatches and CR-Xs.

End paste.

What kind of 1989 Rex do you have? Does it have the seatbelts in the doors or the car itself? That makes a big difference in weight believe it or not.

Something to remember in your car is that the hydro Type R tranny won't work without some custom work.

Contact LHT Performance in FLA and ask aboiut their hydro tranny kits for your CR-X. That's the way to go IMO because cable B trannies tend to crap out too soon from what I've seen.

If you want the easy way out, then sell off the ITR tranny for an easy $1,000.00-$1,200.00 and then buy a J1 tranny for about $400.00 or so (w/o LSD) and the add an LSD for another $800.00 (Quaife) and whatever labor you;'ll end up paying. You 'll probably break even or shell out a few hundred extra for a cable tranny and new LSD installed.

As far as engine management goes, sell the ITR ECU as it will either be OBD2 (USDM) or OBD2 plug with OBD1 program (JDM) and it will be useless for you.

Either convert the car to OBD1 via a harness or have a PR3/PW0 (first-gen B16A JDM ECU) re-chipped to ITR specs or better. Or if you have the loot, convert to OBD1 and run a Hondata S200 and have a custom program burned for you on the dyno after tuning.

Am I moving too fast?

dingusjt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GroundZer0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You may be able to get one from a junkyard for less that works, but then again it may have some milage on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wow...you guys must have very very nice junkyards over there, i'm lucky if i can even find 88+ civics around here

if you have the money for it then i couldn't see a better route to go, with its high compression, aggrexive cams, pp head etc. i think its one of the best "stock" motors available.

lothian110

sounds like a bit of work... but i guess you get what you put into it... there are two very well esablished shops close to my house that im considering getting the work done... i'm going to continue shopping for good prices on the engine and i'll take it from there... thanks for the help

B18c5Kevin

I have a 1991 Si hatch with a b18c5, and it's one of the nicest/reliable running car I had up to date.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

Go For it!! The Car will rip

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18c5Kevin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 1991 Si hatch with a b18c5, and it's one of the nicest/reliable running car I had up to date.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Since you have one in a 1988-1991 style Civic/CR-X how would you say my reply was in terms of correctness?

Do you run a cable S1/J1/Y1 tranny or hydro ITR tranny?

Spaceballsthelunchbox

I started with a B16, nice power, rev happy engine.
I then upgraded to a B18C5, WOW! it's amazing how 1/2" taller block and 200ccs more can make a car feel. I am a ***** when it comes to drag racing, I just don't like it and I suck at it. yet I was able to pull a 13.4 at 105 mph on my CRX with Falken Azenis. I say the B18C5 is worth every penny you spend.
I have also done 4 other B18C5 swaps on CRX's, two of which I converted to hydro. I like the hydro tranny, but I decided to rebuild my Y1 and keep it.
B18c5-EH2 is right on on his reply!

civicVX

can't get any better b series than type r, usable power band is much stronger throughout the entire rpm range with the b18c5

Rob!

i would love to have a b18c5 in my hf....uhhh im dreaming....